AHC front corner dropping, christmas tree and bad luck so far with unicorn LX 570 (1 Viewer)

[manofthewoods]

Okay, so it looks like I'm ready to close this out. I got the truck into a competent independent shop and they worked on it for about a week and a half chasing down the issues. Here's the summary:

- Coolant leak - it was in fact the valley plate. Bummer, but fixed now.
- Christmas tree of check engine lights - this one was harder for them to nail down. It was flagging an O2 sensor code even though it had just been replaced. They swapped it with a known good O2 sensor and the code stayed. Tracked it down to what they thought was a loose connection that when fiddled with made it go away... until it came back. Tracked it down to a loose terminal crimp on the O2 sensor harness. Fixed that and it went away. But then... another code. Traced that some more and found another connector bad - this one to the ECM. Fixed that and it looks like the error codes and warning lights have in fact gone away. It's a mystery why there were multiple harness connectors screwed up - but I would bet it was the result of shoddy diagnostic work at the Lexus dealership.
- AHC - The AHC checked out fine. Apparently there's a tolerance on the corner to corner height and my truck was inside that tolerance. Levels were fine, everything else was fine.

In the end it cost me another $2,100, but I don't feel too bad about it. I think the price was more than fair given the amount of hours they had into it.

So, I finally have a fully functioning 200 series. All in, I paid $23k for the truck with 127k miles on it and put around $6k in repairs in. Paid around $800 for delivery, so I'm sitting at right around $30k for a well documented, rust free, no accidents 200 series with 127k miles and all common issues addressed (new radiator, valley plate repaired, new starter, new alternator). Have I done well on this one? I have no idea... probably not, but whatever.

Edit: BTW, CARspec in Eden Prarie, MN... Awesome shop. Competent, fairly priced and don't treat their customers like they're idiots. What more can you ask for? I have a follow up appointment scheduled for them to look at my 80 series. Recommended.

Thanks for the follow-up. Sorry for the hassles.
Having a trusted shop is great. I'll mention it to my cousin who lives in EP.
Enjoy the journey

 

[efred]

Looks like pin 54 is for the front right door lighting, though frankly the circuits are pretty confusing.

For what it's worth for future visitors to this thread, pin 54 is actually the right REAR door lighting, at least in my 2011 Land Cruiser. Mine had corroded away to nothing also. So had pin 14, which didn't show up in the 700+ page wiring PDF I found, so I don't know what it is. I fixed them both in hopes of fixing my own electrical gremlins, which I did by pulling/snipping the wires out of the backs of both sides of the connector, and soldering a jumper on each that bypassed the connector. Replacing the pins is not something I knew how to accomplish.

The door light is fixed, but I still have passenger airbag lights on most of the time, and the interior lights don't light up when you open the door. No ideas on those at this point. I might find a mechanic who doesn't say "there were broken pins? I didn't see that. I wouldn't even know how to fix that."

 

[linuxgod]

For what it's worth for future visitors to this thread, pin 54 is actually the right REAR door lighting, at least in my 2011 Land Cruiser. Mine had corroded away to nothing also. So had pin 14, which didn't show up in the 700+ page wiring PDF I found, so I don't know what it is. I fixed them both in hopes of fixing my own electrical gremlins, which I did by pulling/snipping the wires out of the backs of both sides of the connector, and soldering a jumper on each that bypassed the connector. Replacing the pins is not something I knew how to accomplish.

The door light is fixed, but I still have passenger airbag lights on most of the time, and the interior lights don't light up when you open the door. No ideas on those at this point. I might find a mechanic who doesn't say "there were broken pins? I didn't see that. I wouldn't even know how to fix that."

pin 14 is apparently part of a number of systems. none of these are SRS though.

pin54 as you note is for the interior rear light circuit. if you're still having lighting issues it's entirely possible there's one or more other pins which are corroded.

 

[efred]

Thanks for the info! What site or software are you using there?

I’ve studied that and other connectors in both A pillars and can’t find any problems. I think I’ll have to look farther afield.