AHC Fluid Change How To -- Need Input (1 Viewer)

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I changed my AHC fluid yesterday...

...after about 50K miles.

FSM address routine bleeding but doesn't add the Accumulator as something to drain. I ignored it at the first change I did...used one can at that time.

I did the accumulator first yesterday, followed by the Damping Force Actuators (globes) following the sequence in the FSM...had to go to local Toyota dealer and get another can. I'd estimate it took, total, a full can and maybe a quarter to a third of a second can.

Prior to bleeding, I drained the tank and removed it. Cleaned a bunch of black crap residue inside and blew it out with air before reinstalling.

hth, especially if you don't have a second vehicle to get you to a dealer mid-flush.;)

eta...fluid was black-as-ace-of-spades...I may start doing this more often than every 60K.

Steve
 
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I think it does. At a certain angle it will disconnect something in order to reduce the body roll.
But I don't think mine is working as I have a massive bodyroll.
 
Does the telescopic steering wheel have any connection to this system?
Zero...it uses threaded shafts and electric motors for in/out up down.
 
Thanks for the wonderful write up and info, guys. I am planning on picking up some fluid and doing this in the next couple of weekends. I've done a ton of brake bleeding, so this seems simple enough. 1 question though:

Is it required once done with 1 accumulator to start the car and drive it around, or can you just do all 4 sides and keep filling the reservoir?

Thanks.

Chuck
 
Does the telescopic steering wheel have any connection to this system?
Only the steering angle has an input to the AHC system, measured at the steering wheel. When the angle is more than 30 deg, the valves connecting left to right will close in order to reduce lean/roll. It is important that front wheel alignments are done without upsetting the zero position of the steering angle. If you have VGRS, that system comes in to play as well, and has to be aligned/zeroed.

Is it required once done with 1 accumulator to start the car and drive it around, or can you just do all 4 sides and keep filling the reservoir?
Better get all the crap out first. Then, after driving a bit, or even just Hi/Lo a bit, there will be more dirty fluid mixed in from the shocks. :)
 
Only the steering angle has an input to the AHC system, measured at the steering wheel. When the angle is more than 30 deg, the valves connecting left to right will close in order to reduce lean/roll. It is important that front wheel alignments are done without upsetting the zero position of the steering angle. If you have VGRS, that system comes in to play as well, and has to be aligned/zeroed.


Better get all the crap out first. Then, after driving a bit, or even just Hi/Lo a bit, there will be more dirty fluid mixed in from the shocks. :)


Thanks!

I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
Quick update: I had some scheduling problems this weekend, so I didn't get a chance to do the whole thing. I did get a turkey baster and suck the tank dry (with the car in low). I got out quite a bit, and it's black! The new stuff is clear with a pink tinge to it. Filled it back up to the 'Max' line when the car is in N as the book recommends. It already rides better.

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Long thread so maybe it's already mentioned...

What have you guys found as the best / cheapest source for AHC fluid? The local dealerships are charging $60 per 2.5L can, so about $130 with tax for enough to complete the job. I have found it online for as little as $30/can, but two consecutive places have now taken my order only to email back later that they can't fulfill the order because they can't ship the fluid as it is a hazardous material. Can anyone point me to a source to order a couple cans at a good price that knows how to ship hazmat?
 
Long thread so maybe it's already mentioned...

What have you guys found as the best / cheapest source for AHC fluid? The local dealerships are charging $60 per 2.5L can, so about $130 with tax for enough to complete the job. I have found it online for as little as $30/can, but two consecutive places have now taken my order only to email back later that they can't fulfill the order because they can't ship the fluid as it is a hazardous material. Can anyone point me to a source to order a couple cans at a good price that knows how to ship hazmat?
I've had two separate orders of suspension fluid shipped from Sewell Lexus of Dallas, inexpensive and no hazmat issues whatsoever. If you quote a club lexus username when you set up your purchase account you receive a great discount too.
 
Anyone have detailed pictures or video of the bleed procedure?
It shouldn't need a video...place a piece of plastic tubing over the bleed screws, loosen the bleed nut until the fluid stops running.
 
Flushed the AHC fluid yesterday. Pretty simple thanks to the illustrations and steps provided on this thread. Using a headlamp helped with vision underneath. Between the four actuators and one accumulator, I got almost a half gallon of old dirty fluid out and replaced with fresh and clean. Going each actuator at a time, then driving in between, it took closer to 2 hours than 1 for me. Now the vehicle rides pretty much the same as before to me, which is real good.
 
I have 10 graduations when I do the high/low check, so my system is good. However, the fluid level is low in the reservoir when in N. Is it ok to add new fluid in the meantime until I can flush the system completely?
 
I have 10 graduations when I do the high/low check, so my system is good. However, the fluid level is low in the reservoir when in N. Is it ok to add new fluid in the meantime until I can flush the system completely?
No issue whatsoever. It's not like the engine or trans where you have a "full" level that you don't want to exceed. E.g., fluid level on my LX is half an inch or so above the "Full" line on the reservoir when the AHC is set to "High".

Steve
 
Long thread so maybe it's already mentioned...

What have you guys found as the best / cheapest source for AHC fluid? The local dealerships are charging $60 per 2.5L can, so about $130 with tax for enough to complete the job.
I would check more dealers...Lexus dealer in Boise wants ~$40 a can, Toyota dealer here is just a bit above $30.

Steve
 
Any other/updated online sources for AHC fluid? None of my go to vendors will ship and cheapest I could find it local is $47 (most wanted $60).

Also what is the deal OEM part vendors not shipping fluids when I can onto Amazon and get oil shipped to my door in 2 days.
 
Just pm'ed Beno asking - List: $47.23 and Mud: $34.52 + shipping via Fedex Ground.

I paid $50 plus tax for one can just a week ago at local Lexus dealer.
 
I have 10 graduations when I do the high/low check, so my system is good. However, the fluid level is low in the reservoir when in N. Is it ok to add new fluid in the meantime until I can flush the system completely?
FWIW the correct way to do the globe health check aka graduation test is from Low to High, its a more accurate check because when you go from Low to High you're discharging fluid from the height accumulator into the system, when you drop from High to Low that doesn't happen. Probably more important when its a line call between serviceable (7 + grads for NA vehicles) and unserviceable.
 
Any other/updated online sources for AHC fluid? None of my go to vendors will ship and cheapest I could find it local is $47 (most wanted $60).

Can of AHC fluid at Toyota dealer in Great Falls, MT = $41.
 

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