Aftermarket Shocks- Which to get?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Lamdpimp: N100 front and N101 rear are the only OME's out right now for the UZJ. LTR's are coming though I heard that for a long time. And come on bro, add the springs and T-bars, just trim it to 2-inches. That's modest and a huge ride and look improvement.

sk8rider: The T-Bars did stiffen the front a bit too. The travel is the same no matter what you do though ride may or may not be. If you trim them to a zero-to-an-inch over stock lift, you'll see very little difference from stock in flex. If you add more lift (withought doing other mods like front diff lowering, etc) then it takes more force to up-travel the wheel (cuz you're twisting the bars more than normal), reducing flex in some circumstances. You'll see all improvements until you get more aggressive as I did. Then, some mild trade-offs exist.

 

[Landpimp]

hmmm I thought there were more choices? don't some of the 80 series rears cross over to a 100? or was that just the coils?

I need one normal Cruiser.........and the 100 is the one I use to take my clients out in......and the less mods I make....the less I gotta work on it.....and ya know if I added a lift I would have to add a bull bar.....and then a winch....then dual batts, then a rack ........you know the story I do agree 100's look ALOT better lifted.....

Lamdpimp: N100 front and N101 rear are the only OME's out right now for the UZJ. LTR's are coming though I heard that for a long time. And come on bro, add the springs and T-bars, just trim it to 2-inches. That's modest and a huge ride and look improvement.

sexist.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Just the 80's coils are swappable.

Dude, if the shocks could swap I'd have the long-travel 80-shocks in the rear tomorrow.

COME ON LANDPIMP....DO IT! LIFT IT! I'm in sales and take clients out often too.

My Cruiser shows them I'm successful at what I do. Many of them make comments (positive) and I am set apart from my competitors that drive Fords and Chevys. I stick out.

Think of it that way????

You can do it!

You can justify it!

JUST DO IT! (I stole that phrase!)

(Get is all while Slee's got the deal!)

 

[Snook]

Don't use air guns on the T-Bar bolts! Also, jack up the adjuster arm and tighten the bolts by ratchet to trim front end. Keep all pressure off those bolts. Many have had them break while adjusting and you're truck is down until you get another one (and they're usually not stocked).

Do you have photo of your modification for lowering front diff. If not, what kind of mod did your buddy made on the stock front diff? Just redrilled?

Thanks,

 

[sleeoffroad]

Lamdpimp: N100 front and N101 rear are the only OME's out right now for the UZJ.

Actually N133's for the front. New stiffer shock. That is what we use on all the 100's.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Do you have photo of your modification for lowering front diff. If not, what kind of mod did your buddy made on the stock front diff? Just redrilled?

Thanks,

Jay, we should have a replacement front crossmember and spacer kit availabile in mid Nov if all goes to plan. Spacers are being machined as we speak and the 2nd test fit for the crossmember is probably this week.

 

[cary]

I don't know if they make them, but Bilsteins are always a good upgrade to improve on road handling and not kill the ride.

 

[Pitbull]

If you are going to keep it forever get the OME shocks. I liked them on my 80.

 

[bjowett]

My typical answer - Koni. None better. Not sure if the full line of HT and Raid stuff is flowing into the US as of yet.

http://www.koni4x4.com/products.php?model=320&id=22

http://www.koni4x4.com/products.php?category=26&model=284

 

[Augie]

Jay, we should have a replacement front crossmember and spacer kit availabile in mid Nov if all goes to plan. Spacers are being machined as we speak and the 2nd test fit for the crossmember is probably this week.

Christo,

Do the replacement crossmember require modification to the splash guard? How much is the target price? Trying to budget it for Christmas wish list.

Thanks,
Augie

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I did the lower diff mod on the 100 for $25 in grade 8 bolts and washers and 1.5 hours labor (required basic cutting and welding.....cake for my mechanic). Total output was $75. IF I COULD have bought (back then) a kit like Christo will sell, I'd a done it so there'd a been no cutting......BUT...after seeing how easy it was, and the fact I have a great machanic....I'd recommend you do it yourself. SNOOK: Please remind me to send pics tomorrow. Gotta go now. J

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

By request:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

The rest:

 

[sleeoffroad]

Christo,

Do the replacement crossmember require modification to the splash guard? How much is the target price? Trying to budget it for Christmas wish list.

Thanks,
Augie

It will be <$200 and will include a new cross member, all bolts and spacers. Both for the differential and also for the splash guard. Complete bolt on. No drilling or cutting.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

For $200 I WOULDN'T DREAM DOING IT MYSELF. Going the Slee way will be the only way to go IMO (then it's easily reversable too).

 

[Landpimp]

what the purpose of the crossmember mod? saving the CV's or clearence or what?

(am kinda leaning towards Slee's 2" lift for the 100...........but just kinda

 

[Snook]

It will be <$200 and will include a new cross member, all bolts and spacers. Both for the differential and also for the splash guard. Complete bolt on. No drilling or cutting.

Slee,

Well, your upcoming relocated battery tray & crossmember is what I am looking for.

Sheesh, you're giving me a real creepy feeling, not because of your bloody arrow thru your face on your home page, it's because you're able to read your future 100 series client's mind.

Shotts, thanks for the photos of your modified crossmember, it is very tempting to this type of work but like you said, it is good to have stock parts just in case if I want to sell my truck in stock mode. And reinstall all or most of those ARB and Slee's parts in a newer 100-series down the road.

Cheers,

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

This is a mod that was designed originally by Doron Strassman (Cruiser99) of Tucson, AZ. In my opinion it is ESSENTIAL that it be done on ANY lifted IFS 100. This mod accomplishes 2 things:

1. It allows for a one-inch suspension lift with no effect on stock CV-angles/up and down travels, therefore prolonging life to the joints and/or boots.

2. For those who will change the CV angles in order to gain more lift, it allows for an extra inch lift at the same CV angle in comparison to not doing the mod. In other words, even at my lift height of 2.75-inches (1.25-inch T-Bar twist, 0.5 inch stiffer T-Bar upgrade and 1-inch Diff Drop) my CV-angles are only increased to the 1.25 inch over stock angle. I get another 1/2 inch by the new T-Bars and another inch by the diff drop. Plus, my down travel is increased back one-inch toward stock which improves my ride. In fact, without this mod at my lift height I'd have little down travel and that's not good.

No matter how you lift your 100 you benefit by doing this mod. Now, with Slee's no cutting option, it's a MUST DO FOR ALL! I have 80K of VERY HARD off-roading miles on my 100, most with 35's and almost 3-inches lift up front and an occassional locked front locker.......CV joints still good.

 

[Augie]

Plus, my down travel is increased back one-inch toward stock which improves my ride. In fact, without this mod at my lift height I'd have little down travel and that's not good.

This does not make any sense. The drop crosmember only alter the position of the diff with no effect what so ever to the suspension. I highly doubt the crosmember got anything to do with the lift.

Did you get any noise from the differential hitting the crossmember? The way you do it is by lowering the bracket but reducing the clearance between the diff to the crossmember. The rubber mount would flex a little bit and it migh cause the diff to hit the crossmember.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Augie.....See new thread. Thanks!