Aftermarket (even mechanical) gauges into STOCK cluster!!! (1 Viewer)

[lc69hunter]

Dude, tell me about it - the selection of 1.5" gauges is s***. I can tell you with some certainty there is nothing available except for Volts/Oil/Water. Definitely no fuel or vacuum.

However 1.5" gauges aren't a requirement, really. Only the electric setup I'm selling is made with 1.5" gauges. The mechanical sets are made from 2 1/16" jobs (Autometer 2347 and 2348). Soo there is some flexibility - once a 2 1/16" gauge is prised from it's canister the mechanisms are usually quite small and the face is just a thin plastic sheet easily trimmed with scissors.

But... people always ask if they can swap in other gauges than the Big 3 I'm showing here and the answer is "not really". The mechanisms inside various gauges vary pretty wildly in terms of depth and the bolt/post pattern on the back. I put cutouts in the brackets to accomodate the gauge sets I've listed but there is no guarantee that a different type of gauge will fit the hole pattern, or even fit inside the cluster.

I am currently using a MAF aftermarket plate (4 2 1/16 & 1 large) and am pretty good at fabbing.

I may buy your setup and see if I can make the other gauges fit.

BTW, awesome job you did. I just may be able to go back to a stock look again.

 

[bj40green]

Shipping

Maybe you answered the question somewhere already, but do you ship them to Costa Rica? If yes at what costs?

Thanks,

 

[amaurer]

Maybe you answered the question somewhere already, but do you ship them to Costa Rica? If yes at what costs?

Thanks,

I do - flat rate box is like $42 or something like that.

 

[bikersmurf]

Dude, tell me about it - the selection of 1.5" gauges is s***. I can tell you with some certainty there is nothing available except for Volts/Oil/Water. Definitely no fuel or vacuum.

However 1.5" gauges aren't a requirement, really. Only the electric setup I'm selling is made with 1.5" gauges. The mechanical sets are made from 2 1/16" jobs (Autometer 2347 and 2348). Soo there is some flexibility - once a 2 1/16" gauge is prised from it's canister the mechanisms are usually quite small and the face is just a thin plastic sheet easily trimmed with scissors.

But... people always ask if they can swap in other gauges than the Big 3 I'm showing here and the answer is "not really". The mechanisms inside various gauges vary pretty wildly in terms of depth and the bolt/post pattern on the back. I put cutouts in the brackets to accomodate the gauge sets I've listed but there is no guarantee that a different type of gauge will fit the hole pattern, or even fit inside the cluster.

I've got a 1 1/2" vacuum gauge in my 40. It's a long sweep unit. I'll check if they're still available.

It is an Equus gauge.

 

[lc69hunter]

thanks...

will also look

 

[Teebag]

As promised, EL wire pictures! As I expected, its awesome.

Great mod, well worth it.

 

[merbesfield]

Great mod, well worth it.

Are those dimmable? The look really bright.

 

[1911]

Are those dimmable? The look really bright.

Yes, they work with the stock dimmer rheostat.

 

[Teebag]

Are those dimmable? The look really bright.

sure, you remove the EL an fit filament type bulbs in the rear, it complicated, but it can be done

 

[amaurer]

Yes, they work with the stock dimmer rheostat.

Can you elaborate... I've always wanted to hear from someone who's tried it - do you get the full range of dimming with the rheostat, or is it "touchy"? I assume there is a point where the wire just kicks off?

I don't have a fancy dimmer on my Non-US truck so I've never been able to try this...

 

[1911]

Can you elaborate... I've always wanted to hear from someone who's tried it - do you get the full range of dimming with the rheostat, or is it "touchy"? I assume there is a point where the wire just kicks off?

I don't have a fancy dimmer on my Non-US truck so I've never been able to try this...

Drew, mine is very linear and smooth, through almost the full range of my stock headlight switch. At some point a few degrees of rotation shy of the end of the knob rotation, the EL wire just turns off. Mostly I just leave mine at the 100% setting though - the light is very even and not glaring or too bright. Such a joy to be able to see everything in the cluster clearly at night.

 

[amaurer]

Drew, mine is very linear and smooth, through almost the full range of my stock headlight switch. At some point a few degrees of rotation shy of the end of the knob rotation, the EL wire just turns off. Mostly I just leave mine at the 100% setting though - the light is very even and not glaring or too bright. Such a joy to be able to see everything in the cluster clearly at night.

Cool, thanks, good to know.

 

[Teebag]

Not sure I understand why we go to all the effort to make these things brighter, and then look for a way to turn them down. Also don't have that fancy switch here

 

[3doghouse]

Not sure I understand why we go to all the effort to make these things brighter, and then look for a way to turn them down. Also don't have that fancy switch here

Its not just brighter, its much more even. You only want it bright enough to see. Otherwise it becomes a distraction.

 

[Teebag]

Agree, but this is "Goldilocks" just right

 

[ktbesch]

Mechanical fuel gauge? I assume you mean oil pressure or water temp...

In any cases, both electrical gauges (oil and water) require special senders, and both senders are included. Both mechanical gauges require lines or probes, which are also included.

What is NOT included are NPT-to-BSPT adapters. Both the electrical and mechanical oil pressure gauges have 1/8" NPT fittings, which, while they'll work with the block as-is, you really should add a BSPT adapter to be safe (the fittings differ by 1 thread per inch. The brass is soft enough that many people just screw it in and are fine).

No adapter is required for the water temp gauges because they have 1/2" NPT fittings. This fitting is safe and desirable to use without an adapter because a) using a fitting would space the probe out too far to be good and accurate, and b) 1/2" NPT and BSPT may be used together safely:

I'll start off by saying that I'm a novice at this kind of stuff, so please forgive me if this question seems stupid or I'm missing something really simple.
I am having trouble installing the new water temp sending unit on my 1980 FJ40. I read that no adapter is needed, but the new sender doesn't fit the hole left once I removed the old sender (see pict). None of the adapters that came with the gauges fit either. Any idea what size adapter will mate the new sender to the block? Thanks for putting this package together, I can't wait to get it up and going.

 

[amaurer]

I'll start off by saying that I'm a novice at this kind of stuff, so please forgive me if this question seems stupid or I'm missing something really simple.
I am having trouble installing the new water temp sending unit on my 1980 FJ40. I read that no adapter is needed, but the new sender doesn't fit the hole left once I removed the old sender (see pict). None of the adapters that came with the gauges fit either. Any idea what size adapter will mate the new sender to the block? Thanks for putting this package together, I can't wait to get it up and going.

When I say "no adapter is needed" I mean only that a 1/2" NPT fittings can be used without damage with 1/2" BSPT holes (as you have on a Toyota engine). However that obviously assumes that you choose to install the probe in a 1/2" BSPT hole... for example, I suspect the fitting right next door (where your heater hose is presently) is 1/2" BSPT. I think Autometer does include a 1/2" bushing with the gauges, so are you saying that the hole you've found there is not 1/2"??

If so, you'll need to order up a bushing that adapts from the ??" BSPT hole to the NPT threads on the sender. You could force equal-sized NPT and BSPT fittings together, however this is only really OK to do with 1/2" and larger (below this size the threads-per-inch differs by 1 tooth and you'll cause slight thread damage if you try).

I can't be much more help than that, I'm afraid - my cruisers are diesels and I used 1/2" fittings for the probes. I've never done the install on a gasser (Toyota or Chevy) and have let people fend for themselves with Autometer's directions.

 

[remorris]

great thread. I am working on putting an FJ60 speedo (the guts of it) behind a FJ40 face.

I am gaining a trip odometer and a million mile speedo.

I had planned on cutting up a 81/82/83 FJ40 speedo face, but I found a friend that can renumber my 100 mph face down to an 85 (like the FJ60 was). Should be nice and I like the backlights here.

Here's a couple of pictures.
1. FJ60 SPEEDO
2. FJ60 SPEEDO WITH fj40 FACE
3 NOTICE THE FJ40 SPEEDO NOW HAS A TRIP BUTTON JUST ABOVE THE HIGHBEAM INDICATOR.

I will finish up the window for the trip odometer and do a little "body work" on the face to make it look decent and post a few more pictures.

 

[Spike Strip]

I'm going to order one of the complete kits tonight, but can't decide on Mechanical or electric... Yes, yes,

Aesthetically, I like the look of the mechanical vs the red, green, black of the elec faces, but I suspect after a short bit, you don't even notice it.

And I know the various pros and cons, (both systems are equally accurate, contrary to the belief mech is superior), but anything you guys unexpectedly encountered while installing the different setups ?

 

[amaurer]

I'd love to hear everyone's opinion as well, but I will add mine:

For really early clusters (without a circuit board on the back, pre ~71) the mechanical gauges are a tight fit and installation can be a bear. I don't know why, but it seems like every year for the early years moves things around by 1/8" or so - adjustment will be required.

All other years are straightforward, but the electrical set is still easier to get into the cluster - the faces are smaller and little-to-no adjustment is required.