AFM or Plug wires (1 Viewer)

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Oct 25, 2006
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I was refered to this awsome site by some of the PBB members. My SN is 3VZE over there.
I just picked up a 91 Fj80 with 221k. I drove it for a few days before deciding to do a tune up. I did plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV, oil filter...
Let me say that was all much needed. I thought I was doing myself a favor by cleaning the oil out of my AFM with brake clean.
But now it doesnt start. I believe I have my plug wires on right.
It sounds like it wants to fire but just keeps cranking.
What are the signs of a bad AFM ?

Thoughts ?

Thanks !
 
Let's not assume it's the AFM or anything specific till we've got all the information:

Are you saying you did the full tune up all at once, plus the AFM cleaning, and the first attempted start after all that was a no-go?

I wouldn't think the AFM could keep it from starting, but I haven't completely thought it through...

Someone will surely ask you the following: Is the CEL illuminated, as it should be, with the engine off but the key in the ON position?

We'll get 'er figured out,

Curtis
91FJ80
 
Let me first ask the obvious. The plug wires should be 1-5-3-6-2-4 correct ? Anyone got a picture just incase I have those wrong ?
Edit: another thing I just thought of, I used NGK BPR5ES-11; @ Gap .044 This may have something to do with the problem. What should the gap be ?

It sounds like it wants to start but just wont fire. If the wires were hooked up wrong it would back fire or crank hard correct ?

I believe the CEL is on in the cranking position. Unfortunatly I wont get to work on it till tommorow evening.

And yes I did the full tune and cleaning all at the same time.

Also where is the fuel filter located on these. I havent looked yet but I decided to do the fuel filter as well.
The PO didnt take care of the rig at all.

Thank you guys
 
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If I can find my digital camera again i'll shoot a picture for you..... I wonder where the damn thing has gotten to
 
BTT I just worked on the darn thing. There is spark. I reset the ecu so no codes. Will it run w/o the AFM ?
How do I check to see if the fuel pump works ?
And some of the other questions above ?

Thx
 
.044 is fine. The fuel filter is located inside the frame in the area under the air filter and the oil filter, a bit of a PITA what with the inevitable fuel spill and awkward work area. The EFI relay is a common starting problem in '91 and cheap to replace. Do a search and perform the EFI relay wire fix, otherwise you will cook your EFI relay on a regular basis.
 
How do I check to see if the fuel pump works ?

It's easy, supposedly. (I haven't had any need to try it.)

From the FSM:

(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON. (Do not start the engine.)

(b) Using SST (ie, a paper clip:)), connect terminals +B and FP of the check connector. (This is the same little box under the hood near the firewall where you short two other terminals to pull CEL codes. +B is the slot in the left (driver's side US) rear corner, FP is in the left front corner.)

(c) Check (manually, by squeezing) that there is pressure in the fuel return hose (just behind the PS pump).

Curtis
 
You can get a fuel pressure gauge at most parts stores for fairly cheap... the fuel pump is not in a good place but not hard to get to... did mine last week
 
Got a spare relay, test the old. Thats not the problem. I jumpered the fuel pump to be sure. There is spark. No sure how bright the spark is supposed to be though.
Im running out of things to check. Will these rigs fire up without a MAF ? Just start not drive.
This just doesnt make sense. It worked before and all I did was replace bad parts with good ones. I check the cap and rotor again just to make sure the center pin was in place. I checked and the coil is getting power which makes sense since I have spark.
WTH ?
 
I jumpered the fuel pump to be sure.

And felt pressure in the return line as per the manual?

Hang in there. I still feel like maybe you just didn't reconnect something...

If I get up the nerve, I'll crank over my 3FE tomorrow with the AFM disconnected and let you know the results.

Curtis
 
You need the AFM connected for the motor to run.

How much cleaner did you spray in the AFM?

If all else fails...
I would cut the black top off the AFM and wipe the circuit board clean.
DO NOT mess with the screws at the AFM connector.

Good luck
 
You need the AFM connected for the motor to run.

Yeah, I convinced myself of that this morning. (Didn't try it though...) Supposedly the fuel pump won't run with it diconnected, right? Even though it (the fuel pump) will run when you do the diagnostics test.

Thanks Frank,

Curtis
 
You need the AFM connected for the motor to run.

How much cleaner did you spray in the AFM?

If all else fails...
I would cut the black top off the AFM and wipe the circuit board clean.
DO NOT mess with the screws at the AFM connector.

Good luck
BTT:

I only sprayed a small amount. I did cut the top off and it looks nice and clean in there.
What I dont understand is that I was able to pull ecu codes.
If the ecu wasnt getting power would it do that ?
Im wondering about the CO relay now.
I got the Haynes manual and its actually not that bad. It has all the same circuit diagrams the FSM's do. BTW the local dealers told me they are no longer avail.

I replaced the AFM with a known good unit. I replaced the coil/igniter with a known good unit and still nothing. That leaves the ECU or distributor.
 
They're lying.

Toyota Publications 1-800-622-2033
I questioned that...oh well.

So tonight I put in a circuit opening relay. Still no dice.
I sprayed a bunch of starter fluid down the intake hoping to get a backfire or something. Nada. So I wonder if the spark plugs arent getting enough spark or at the wrong time for some reason.
Would a bad distributor cause this ? Back to the drawing board
 

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