Affordable regear to 4.30 (1 Viewer)

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Would nee a press to change bearings though right?
Yes need press, special puller and sometimes induction oven. I did not replace the bearing since mine still looks good.
I did replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer. I cheated by measuring the old crush sleeve length. Eventually the shim stack are about 0.05 mm thicker to get proper pinion drag. It seems the old crush sleeve does start to lose the tension.

What is strut material? I imagine two bolts properly spaced in a bar of flat steel stock would work.
This is what I use
 
Yes need press, special puller and sometimes induction oven. I did not replace the bearing since mine still looks good.
I did replace the crush sleeve with solid spacer. I cheated by measuring the old crush sleeve length. Eventually the shim stack are about 0.05 mm thicker to get proper pinion drag. It seems the old crush sleeve does start to lose the tension.


This is what I use

That strut material looks perfect for the job - a lot easier to handle I am sure than the flat bar I was thinking of. Going to start pulling mine apart to check the bearings and install the solid pinion spacer. I still havent picked up my front gears yet, so I have plenty of time to fool around with it. Did you reuse the pinion nut? Was thinking a new one might be nice. Good idea on measuring the crush sleeve. I'll have to make sure to do that.
 
Replacing your pinion nut is recommended! A healthy dose of loctite and staking it will keep it tight. I've actually had one back off enough to make the pinion whine once. I'm paranoid about them now.
 
I read somewhere that 8.2 diff can use 8" diff ring and pinion. The strength difference on the gear is very minimal. The biggest difference is the carrier support bridge that reduce carrier deflection.

The biggest thing I learn from doing this project is carrier bearing preload. My OEM 160K diff have lost all its preload. I could move the ring gear with no resistance at all. No wonder some break the diff like it was made of glass.
CBPL refresh
This procedure need to be done on GX that have more than 100k miles.

I put solid Pinion spacer on the 8" elocker. The solid spacer length grew about 0.02" to be able to achieve 5-6 in lbs of torque to rotate the pinion. That means the OEM crush sleeve have collapse a bit. The backlash was a bit much at 0.012". OEM spec is about 0.006-0.011"

I end up tighten the ring side about 8 notch and other side 4 notch to get gear pattern to be good and overall pinion preload 18-20 in lbs.


8.2 and 8 in ring and pinion are not at all compatible with each other. The 8.2 Diff is completely different but is a pretty good upgrade considering it's a small size difference. The 8.2 e-locker version is less of an upgrade because it shares the same week carrier design as the 8 in. To those that prefer avoid fussing with junkyard parts : Nitro Gear Package
 
Alright - I finally got my inch pound torque wrench and the correct 1/4" to 1/2" adapter, but I am a little lost on checking the pinion preload. I dropped on the solid pinion spacer and shims to get me to close to the length of the crush sleeve then put the pinion in the housing and put the front bearing and oil slinger back on. I put the pinion flange and pinion flange nut on (waiting to put the seal on until I get the preload set).

My question is how much do I tighten down the pinion nut to check the pinion preload? I have searched and reviewed the FSM, but I haven't found a good answer.
 
My question is how much do I tighten down the pinion nut to check the pinion preload? I have searched and reviewed the FSM, but I haven't found a good answer.
Crush sleeve are measured by pinion preload.
Solid spacer nut should be torqued down to 190-240 ft. Lbs

Below is the solid spacer instructions
SOLID SPACER INSTALLATION TECH
 Measure old crush sleeve w/ micrometer or calipers, this will get you close.
 If you are setting up a diff that shims behind the race, you will need to make the
same adjustment to the spacer thickness shims. (example: if you take .008 out of
the shim pack behind the race, subtract the same amount from the spacer shim
pack)
 Once spacer and shims are installed tighten pinion nut slowly, measuring pinion
preload.
 Pinion preload will remain at 0 until the bearings meet the races and the preload
will increase very, very quickly.
 Once you get close to the right pinion preload, shim thickness adjustments need to
be made in the .003 and down range to make adjustments, small increments make
a big difference in pinion preload.
 One will want to torque the pinion nut to 190- 240 ft lbs (Small Diff’s) D60 and
larger 225 -350 Ft lbs with the proper preload achieved. Always use loctite on
pinion nut even if it is a crimp nut.
 
Crush sleeve are measured by pinion preload.
Solid spacer nut should be torqued down to 190-240 ft. Lbs

Below is the solid spacer instructions
SOLID SPACER INSTALLATION TECH
 Measure old crush sleeve w/ micrometer or calipers, this will get you close.
 If you are setting up a diff that shims behind the race, you will need to make the
same adjustment to the spacer thickness shims. (example: if you take .008 out of
the shim pack behind the race, subtract the same amount from the spacer shim
pack)
 Once spacer and shims are installed tighten pinion nut slowly, measuring pinion
preload.
 Pinion preload will remain at 0 until the bearings meet the races and the preload
will increase very, very quickly.
 Once you get close to the right pinion preload, shim thickness adjustments need to
be made in the .003 and down range to make adjustments, small increments make
a big difference in pinion preload.
 One will want to torque the pinion nut to 190- 240 ft lbs (Small Diff’s) D60 and
larger 225 -350 Ft lbs with the proper preload achieved. Always use loctite on
pinion nut even if it is a crimp nut.

Those look like the East Coast Gear Supply instructions I found. I am a slow learner - so to get it straight - install spacer, shims, pinion, pinion flange, and pinion flange nut. Torque pinion flange nut to 190, check preload. If low, keep tightening until proper preload is reached. If high, disassemble, install additional shim and repeat. Is that right?
 
If low, keep tightening until proper preload is reached. If high, disassemble, install additional shim and repeat. Is that right?
Nope.
If low you need to reduce shim. Solid spacer would not get tighter with more torque, unlike crush sleeve. It's much faster to set crush sleeve. That is the reason OEM use it for mass production.
 
Nope.
If low you need to reduce shim. Solid spacer would not get tighter with more torque, unlike crush sleeve. It's much faster to set crush sleeve. That is the reason OEM use it for mass production.

Alright - so if low, disassemble, reduce shim and try again. Got it. Hope I can get it put back together right. Would love to get all these diffs off my work bench!
 
Definitely takes more patience and time than just replacing third member. But you would love the end result. It's hands down the most cost effective regear on this platform.
 
Edited 6/02/2020

I have successfully run this setup since October 2018 with 255/80R17.
4.30 E-Locker 8" rear diff out of 1999 3rd gen 4runner
4.30 3rd gen Tacoma 4 cylinder front clamshell
With 4.30 and 33" tires it is about 7% under geared which is good since the tire have much higher rolling resistance than stock.

Below is the guide of gear and axle combinations used in our platform.
View attachment 2329197

The rear 8" E-Locker need:
1. Driveshaft flange changed with 27 spline flange with 66x66 mm bolt pattern. (Some later model might come with 29 spline pinion)
2. I added solid spacer since the diff are taken apart anyway.
3. Did carrier bearing preload refresh
4. Two longer stud for E-Locker housings
5. Modify housing to fit the E-locker
6. E-locker harness and switch

The front 8" clamshell need
1. Removal of ADD assembly
2. Reinstall original axle tube from your GX

I was able to complete this swap for about $1K which is very affordable considering you gain lower gearing and rear locking differential.

Most will say this are not strong enough for V8 and 5000 lbs + vehicles. I still consider this much better than the open 8". You gain lower gear which make it easier to turn larger tires and reduce carrier deflection. Also the locker help reduce shock loading when the wheel get off the ground.


Hey Jstawgn,

Mind if I ask how you sourced this info? It seems there's some conflicting info out there, as this thread shows the L4 6AT to use the 8" rear diff.

For context, I'm currently trying to investigate the capability to use the L4 6AT 4.30 rear diff gears/housing with an aftermarket LSD/locking carrier in my V8 T4R, and the L4 6AT 4.30 seems like it could be the answer for a simple torsen or air locker job by simply swapping the carrier and pinion flange to T4R parts, but I want to investigate any info discrepancies before buying parts.
 
Definitely takes more patience and time than just replacing third member. But you would love the end result. It's hands down the most cost effective regear on this platform.
How much do you wheel and any strength issues with this? It's looking like an 8.2 swap with front/rear Harrops and 4.56's would cost around $6K. Judging by current prices of used 4.30 front and fear diffs this can seemingly be done for only $1,500-1,600, which is a huge difference (albeit with no front locker, which I probably don't need anyway).
 
Hey Jstawgn,

Mind if I ask how you sourced this info? It seems there's some conflicting info out there, as this thread shows the L4 6AT to use the 8" rear diff.

For context, I'm currently trying to investigate the capability to use the L4 6AT 4.30 rear diff gears/housing with an aftermarket LSD/locking carrier in my V8 T4R, and the L4 6AT 4.30 seems like it could be the answer for a simple torsen or air locker job by simply swapping the carrier and pinion flange to T4R parts, but I want to investigate any info discrepancies before buying parts.

I make that chart long time ago. I lost the master to easily edit it.
It is correct non TRD Off Road use 8" diff except MT model which use 8. 75" dif


How much do you wheel and any strength issues with this? It's looking like an 8.2 swap with front/rear Harrops and 4.56's would cost around $6K. Judging by current prices of used 4.30 front and fear diffs this can seemingly be done for only $1,500-1,600, which is a huge difference (albeit with no front locker, which I probably don't need anyway).
3-4 times a year. Mostly in Midwest muddy hills. Not Slick Rock like Moab that known to break weak diff. Last 2 years with 35x10.50R17.
That is the whole reason I did this. I was out $1100 including the wiring and other material I need do complete this.
 
3-4 times a year. Mostly in Midwest muddy hills. Not Slick Rock like Moab that known to break weak diff. Last 2 years with 35x10.50R17.
That is the whole reason I did this. I was out $1100 including the wiring and other material I need do complete this.
I think you may have just sold me. With selling my rear 3.73 3rd and front clamshells I think this could be less than a $1K all-in, and frankly 4.30 is a better ratio for my needs than the 4.56 I'd be stuck with after a 8.2 swap. I may pull the trigger on this (as I could afford it now-ish) and just go all the way to a Diamond 9.5 in the future if I blow up the e-locked 8" in the future.

EDIT: What year Tacoma 4.30 front diffs will work? Looks like the 4.30 front differential was offered over a few different generations.
 
Last edited:
EDIT: What year Tacoma 4.30 front diffs will work? Looks like the 4.30 front differential was offered over a few different generations.
2016-2023 Tacoma 4 cylinder
As 2024+ most likely different.
 
2016-2023 Tacoma 4 cylinder
As 2024+ most likely different.
Thanks. Gonna sleep on this and float it by Mrs. Rednexus for approval. Saving $5K is saving $5K.
 
Thanks. Gonna sleep on this and float it by Mrs. Rednexus for approval. Saving $5K is saving $5K.
Awesome. Make sure you read thru all the steps. It is not popular becaue this is not a straight bolt-on upgrade.
 
Awesome. Make sure you read thru all the steps. It is not popular becaue this is not a straight bolt-on upgrade.
Will do. A bit of cutting, grinding, tapping, and wiring is well within my wheelhouse. I might also do the solid pinion spacer upgrade too.
 

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