Affordable regear to 4.30

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Got more time to test drive. It drive really good and can accelerate a slight incline without unlocking the torque converter. It feels a little bit more powerful than stock.

The speedo calibration still really baffle me. I did the GPS tire change calibration. The change from 3. 73 to 4.30 is about 15%lower. I am running 255/80R17 that are about 8% taller. The speedometer should be 7% less compared to actual GPS verified speed. Instead I am registering more than 5% over actual speedometer and odometer reading too. The RPM for the speed is accurate and match the GPS I am running about 2300 RPM at 70 MPH. It used to run right at 2000 RPM with the same tire and stock gear.

I don't really care about the accuracy of the speedometer but I am curious why the logic is backward. I am expecting GPS speed to register lower than what the speedometer register.
 
Since the regear does not change speedometer reading it seems the speed feedback comes from wheel speed sensor. The build in GPS could compensate a little bit but it seems to be capped at plus and minus 3‰. No wonder the gear change did nothing to the speedometer reading.
 
Can you give some details on your wiring?

Did you use an OEM elocker ECU?
Was there a plug for the dash switch or ECU present in the GX's factory wiring?
Did you use any of the factory elocker wiring harness?

Thanks!
 
I end up using 10 pin DPDT rear e locker switch from low range off road. The wiring diagram is on their page also. The ECU I got end up wrong It's the 4WD ecu instead the locker ECU.
Toyota Electric E Locker Switches

There are no prewiring available in the GX. I use add a coacuit fuse holder tap to center diff lock circuit. Wire using 6 conductor trailer cable. I do use the female side harness that connect to the motor and lock detection switch.

I might still do the ECU later if I found one.
 
I'm not opposed to using the low range wiring. The only reason I haven't is because I want to use the factory dash switch.

I just like the OEM appearance and I like the idea of the dash indicator light being able to function.
 
Jstawgn said:
Got more time to test drive. It drive really good and can accelerate a slight incline without unlocking the torque converter. It feels a little bit more powerful than stock.

The speedo calibration still really baffle me. I did the GPS tire change calibration. The change from 3. 73 to 4.30 is about 15%lower. I am running 255/80R17 that are about 8% taller. The speedometer should be 7% less compared to actual GPS verified speed. Instead I am registering more than 5% over actual speedometer and odometer reading too. The RPM for the speed is accurate and match the GPS I am running about 2300 RPM at 70 MPH. It used to run right at 2000 RPM with the same tire and stock gear.

I don't really care about the accuracy of the speedometer but I am curious why the logic is backward. I am expecting GPS speed to register lower than what the speedometer register.
Click to expand...

Not sure how I forgot about this thread. Glad this worked out for you. I have been putting together a few parts to do the same thing. Did you pull the axle out to do the mods to it or do the work under the truck?

Any more feedback on the 4.30s with 33s? I'd really prefer 4.56s as I would like to jump to 35s, but the price difference would be enormous.
 
With 33 it's a bit overgeaed. I am running about 2300 RPM a 70 MPH. I believe stock is 2100 rpm. I like the power much better. I could accelerate on 5th up slight incline without downshifting. 35 would actually put the gearing back to stock.
 
Jstawgn said:
With 33 it's a bit overgeaed. I am running about 2300 RPM a 70 MPH. I believe stock is 2100 rpm. I like the power much better. I could accelerate on 5th up slight incline without downshifting. 35 would actually put the gearing back to stock.
Click to expand...

That is kind of what I was thinking based on my research but without a guinea pig, I had found not confirmation. That seals it for me. Thanks for the feedback.
 
So, here is a slightly different donor: 2nd Gen Tacoma 2wd with locker. Will this work? A buddy has a 2010 Tacoma but it is 2wd with a locker and 3.73 gears. Would this be a direct bolt in?
 
All 2nd gen tacoma have 66x66 flange but you still need to cut and drill the housing.
 
Can you share a link to your install so i can see what needs to be cut and drilled?
 
Other than the dial torque wrench, what other tools are needed to freshen up the e-locker diff? I am tempted to take a crack at this myself if I can get the right tools together without spending an arm and a leg. I figure I can always turn it over to an expert if I cant get the pattern right.
 
Unless you're setting up new gears you aren't exactly setting up a pattern. You're actually just adjusting and bringing carrier bearing preload back into spec.
People typically just loosen to bearing caps on the towers and tighten the threaded spanners until they achieve the correct tension as measured at the pinion.
That's a bit of an issue as that's one of the ways to adjust how deep the ring gear sits in relation to the pinion gear.
Since you aren't messing with the pinion (unless you upgrade to a solid pinion spacer) you just need to make sure that you keep a similar pattern to what you started with, rather than just tighten bearing retainers indiscriminately until you achieve the correct pinion rotational resistance.
It's not difficult, just tedious. It's a lot of tighten one side, loonen one side. Torque. Check. Repeat.
As far as tools, a spanner wrench is needed. Dont try to spin the bearing retainers with a drift - they'll get mangled. Toyota actually has a specific tool for it. It isn't too expensive but I couldn't find where to buy it, so I made one.
The inch lb torque wrench also has to be a beam style wrench as it has to measure continuous torque. No click style wrenches. You'll need a regular torque wrench for the bearing cap bolts and some sockets.
I used a 14" jaw vise to hold my carrier but a work bench is sufficient to do the job.
I recommend replacing all pinion and carrier bearings (definitely the time)! I installed a used elocker and learned the hell of a deal I got was likely due to the shot pinion bearing so it came right back out for a rebuild 2 weeks later.
 
ArBrnSnpr said:
Unless you're setting up new gears you aren't exactly setting up a pattern. You're actually just adjusting and bringing carrier bearing preload back into spec.
People typically just loosen to bearing caps on the towers and tighten the threaded spanners until they achieve the correct tension as measured at the pinion.
That's a bit of an issue as that's one of the ways to adjust how deep the ring gear sits in relation to the pinion gear.
Since you aren't messing with the pinion (unless you upgrade to a solid pinion spacer) you just need to make sure that you keep a similar pattern to what you started with, rather than just tighten bearing retainers indiscriminately until you achieve the correct pinion rotational resistance.
It's not difficult, just tedious. It's a lot of tighten one side, loonen one side. Torque. Check. Repeat.
As far as tools, a spanner wrench is needed. Dont try to spin the bearing retainers with a drift - they'll get mangled. Toyota actually has a specific tool for it. It isn't too expensive but I couldn't find where to buy it, so I made one.
The inch lb torque wrench also has to be a beam style wrench as it has to measure continuous torque. No click style wrenches. You'll need a regular torque wrench for the bearing cap bolts and some sockets.
I used a 14" jaw vise to hold my carrier but a work bench is sufficient to do the job.
I recommend replacing all pinion and carrier bearings (definitely the time)! I installed a used elocker and learned the hell of a deal I got was likely due to the shot pinion bearing so it came right back out for a rebuild 2 weeks later.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response. I guess I should have been more specific. I will be doing as the OP did and putting in a solid pinion spacer and replacing the pinion flange. I Had been thinking about the spanner wrench. I havent looked yet, but I have noticed that most people build something. I'll have to get looking for a beam-type torque wrench. I just have a click model now. Jesus - 14" jaw? I need one of those. Mine trusty old Reed probably wont handle this, but I have a large, solid bench to work on. Anyway to check the bearings before replacing them? If they need that, then I am probably going to be looking for someone to do the work. I dont really trust myself to go that deep setting up gears on my daily driver.
 
Last edited:
danthemanx07 said:
Thanks for the detailed response. I guess I should have been more specific. I will be doing as the OP did and putting in a solid pinion spacer and replacing the pinion flange. I Had been thinking about the spanner wrench. I havent looked yet, but I have noticed that most people build something. I'll have to get looking for a beam-type torque wrench. I just have a click model now. Jesus - 14" jaw? I need one of those. Mine trusty old Reed probably wont handle this, but I have a large, solid bench to work on. Anyway to check the bearings before replacing them? If they need that, then I am probably going to be looking for someone to do the work. I dont really trust myself to go that deep setting up gears on my daily driver.
Click to expand...

You can definitely do carrier bearings without any concern. The pinion bearing may change the pattern a bit but if you're adding a solid spacer, you're basically upsetting the relationship in the same way as swapping bearings would. These diffs really are user friendly and good for doing swaps/adjustments. I taught myself on my daily driver and all is well.

Checking the bearings is pretty easy. Just look for smooth and tight. You don't want any scoring, grinding, free play ect.
 
Beside the in lb dial torque wrench i bough a dial gauge and bracket from harbor freight for checking backlash.
www.harborfreight.com

Clamping Dial Indicator

Amazing deals on this Clamping Dial Indicator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I use strut material with two 8 mm bolt as my bearing cap wrench.
 
ArBrnSnpr said:
You can definitely do carrier bearings without any concern. The pinion bearing may change the pattern a bit but if you're adding a solid spacer, you're basically upsetting the relationship in the same way as swapping bearings would. These diffs really are user friendly and good for doing swaps/adjustments. I taught myself on my daily driver and all is well.

Checking the bearings is pretty easy. Just look for smooth and tight. You don't want any scoring, grinding, free play ect.
Click to expand...

Would nee a press to change bearings though right?

Jstawgn said:
Beside the in lb dial torque wrench i bough a dial gauge and bracket from harbor freight for checking backlash.
www.harborfreight.com

Clamping Dial Indicator

Amazing deals on this Clamping Dial Indicator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I use strut material with two 8 mm bolt as my bearing cap wrench.
Click to expand...

What is strut material? I imagine two bolts properly spaced in a bar of flat steel stock would work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom