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Dave
Dave
Advice on a potential FJ Purchase (what to look for - what do you think?)
- Thread starter stardotstar
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Wow.. .
Like alot of guys here if I drove by once and saw this jewel sitting out there it would already be in my garage. To bad the good old USA never allowed us to get these little jewels. It has everything I would want in a 40. We have a guy in our club that payed 3 times that to ship him over a BJ40 RHD in that same condition. Be glad you have that opportunity and snap that rig up its awesome. 
Here is that BJ40 I was telling you about. Its immaculate and as it was when it rolled off the line.
Like alot of guys here if I drove by once and saw this jewel sitting out there it would already be in my garage. To bad the good old USA never allowed us to get these little jewels. It has everything I would want in a 40. We have a guy in our club that payed 3 times that to ship him over a BJ40 RHD in that same condition. Be glad you have that opportunity and snap that rig up its awesome. Here is that BJ40 I was telling you about. Its immaculate and as it was when it rolled off the line.
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*'*, Looks like a good unit, but it is reasonably expensive. I doubt you'd get one as good anywhere. Parts for it are not hard to get, except for things that are unique to the LX model. Check for rust in the roof above the "a" pillar and also behind the rear wheels.
- Thread starter
- #24
I have to do:
Safety Cert through my own mechanic (in QLD AUS, seller has to provide a safety cert - he says it will go straight through and is a panel beater and vehicle restorer (has two mustangs - an original 64 and a 67 fastback - under way in his shed.) and he is willing to do it through my mech which is good)
I get this from the redbook used car valuer (aussie dollars...)
Drive it for a good long run, get a feel for the noise and handling, space and general performance.
Lock it and try high and low range on dirt and some uneven terrain
Do a REVS check - any encumbrances over a vehicle. This includes stolen or wreck (write-off) information - need to confirm VIN and Chassis Info for this.
Find out more info on parts availability and this is where some of you guys could be very helpful...
What is involved in reconditioning this engine when it needs to be done. It is at 260,000 and will do more than twice that I am given to realistically expect (assuming I don't beat the hell out of it :roll: ) and can you get these motors - if everything is computerized now days why would they be making these donks and/or parts for them??
What are the options if the donk or transmission goes pear shaped?
Some more info I found out about the rig today:
1) it has the newer model drums in the rear brakes,
2) it has the sideways facing rear seat removed and missing...
3) it has dual batteries in unknown condition - but it started and has the interesting imobiliser in the middle of the front console behind the shifts...
4) the paint is almost immaculate - you cna still see the perfect mounds of the rivets in the body work under the unblemished paint.
5) it has driving lights which work
6) the aircon works
7) the power steer works
8) the locks on the front axels rotate very smoothly both ways
9) I couldn't see any rust at all but it must have been painted black underneath
10) It has a servicable spare
11) The rear seat folds down - or can be taken out.
12) All seatbelts operate reels and buckles and stop-lock on demand
13) All 3 wipers work and seem to be in good condition
14) The motor starts promptly and idles well
15) The exhaust is solid and looks to be without corrosion or clanging or noise
16) The springs, shocks, steering rods and drive train including bash plate are all less damaged than you would see in a suburban sedan.
17) I am told it has an 80L tank
18) All doors lock and operate perfectly sounding solid and responding positively without slop.
19) The rear window sliders work flawlessly.
20) The roof interior material is flawless.
21) The interior is almost perfect showing ionly wear from reasonable use, wear and tear
22) The engine bay is clean for its age and looks original
23) The overall presentation is excellent - a bit dirty but the owners own admission but we have severe water restrictions here.
What should I be asking him guys (yes I know other than Can I have it today?) to make sure that I am not getting something that is too good to be true...
Come on - some of you skeptics must have a checklist you can share some choice bits of
Will
Safety Cert through my own mechanic (in QLD AUS, seller has to provide a safety cert - he says it will go straight through and is a panel beater and vehicle restorer (has two mustangs - an original 64 and a 67 fastback - under way in his shed.) and he is willing to do it through my mech which is good)
I get this from the redbook used car valuer (aussie dollars...)
I don't think this is the "LX" though.
http://www.brian894x4.com/LC40.html said:
Drive it for a good long run, get a feel for the noise and handling, space and general performance.
Lock it and try high and low range on dirt and some uneven terrain
Do a REVS check - any encumbrances over a vehicle. This includes stolen or wreck (write-off) information - need to confirm VIN and Chassis Info for this.
Find out more info on parts availability and this is where some of you guys could be very helpful...
What is involved in reconditioning this engine when it needs to be done. It is at 260,000 and will do more than twice that I am given to realistically expect (assuming I don't beat the hell out of it :roll: ) and can you get these motors - if everything is computerized now days why would they be making these donks and/or parts for them??
What are the options if the donk or transmission goes pear shaped?
Some more info I found out about the rig today:
1) it has the newer model drums in the rear brakes,
2) it has the sideways facing rear seat removed and missing...
3) it has dual batteries in unknown condition - but it started and has the interesting imobiliser in the middle of the front console behind the shifts...
4) the paint is almost immaculate - you cna still see the perfect mounds of the rivets in the body work under the unblemished paint.
5) it has driving lights which work
6) the aircon works
7) the power steer works
8) the locks on the front axels rotate very smoothly both ways
9) I couldn't see any rust at all but it must have been painted black underneath
10) It has a servicable spare
11) The rear seat folds down - or can be taken out.
12) All seatbelts operate reels and buckles and stop-lock on demand
13) All 3 wipers work and seem to be in good condition
14) The motor starts promptly and idles well
15) The exhaust is solid and looks to be without corrosion or clanging or noise
16) The springs, shocks, steering rods and drive train including bash plate are all less damaged than you would see in a suburban sedan.
17) I am told it has an 80L tank
18) All doors lock and operate perfectly sounding solid and responding positively without slop.
19) The rear window sliders work flawlessly.
20) The roof interior material is flawless.
21) The interior is almost perfect showing ionly wear from reasonable use, wear and tear
22) The engine bay is clean for its age and looks original
23) The overall presentation is excellent - a bit dirty but the owners own admission but we have severe water restrictions here.
What should I be asking him guys (yes I know other than Can I have it today?) to make sure that I am not getting something that is too good to be true...
Come on - some of you skeptics must have a checklist you can share some choice bits of
Will
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looks like a VERY TIDY unit but at $10k thats asking a bit.. I wouldn't pay more than $8k for it and that is being generous..
I have bought 2 BJ42's.. the first one was $5k with all the bells and whistles you are getting but not quite as tidy..
and the 2nd one I paid $2800 and it was quite a bit rougher.. those should be some indication of what its worth.. but remember its only worth what you are willing to pay! so if you want to spend $10k on it then go for it..
From your pics it kinda looks like there is a bit of oil/grease around the front knuckles.. these might need cleaning up for road worthy.. I also noticed it has a blue mod plate, do you know what this is for?
take it for a test drive and check 5th gear that it doesnt pop out. it should glow quickly (and on a timer) and shut off ok (some edic motors have issues).. 260 000kms and its just getting worn in..
part availability is good for this model..
check rear wheel wells above where the rear tail lights are for accumilated mud and rust..
check for any oil or leaks on the rear of the transfer case as this could indicate the rear gearbox seal has gone and gear oil has moved into the transfer case (common problem)..
these are awesome 40's that can go forever.. I dont ever intend getting rid of mine and if the rust doesnt eat it first.. it should last forever!
if you need any more advice just let me know..
I have bought 2 BJ42's.. the first one was $5k with all the bells and whistles you are getting but not quite as tidy..
and the 2nd one I paid $2800 and it was quite a bit rougher.. those should be some indication of what its worth.. but remember its only worth what you are willing to pay! so if you want to spend $10k on it then go for it..
From your pics it kinda looks like there is a bit of oil/grease around the front knuckles.. these might need cleaning up for road worthy.. I also noticed it has a blue mod plate, do you know what this is for?
take it for a test drive and check 5th gear that it doesnt pop out. it should glow quickly (and on a timer) and shut off ok (some edic motors have issues).. 260 000kms and its just getting worn in..
part availability is good for this model..
check rear wheel wells above where the rear tail lights are for accumilated mud and rust..
check for any oil or leaks on the rear of the transfer case as this could indicate the rear gearbox seal has gone and gear oil has moved into the transfer case (common problem)..
these are awesome 40's that can go forever.. I dont ever intend getting rid of mine and if the rust doesnt eat it first.. it should last forever!
if you need any more advice just let me know..
- Thread starter
- #28
How many of you guys think a bj42 could be a daily driver??
A real concern communicated to me on another board:
This is spot on and would leave me a bit high and dry. And yet, I was keen on getting a Willy's at one stage - I am kind of pragmatic about handling and don't need all the luxuries if I get a rounded package. Then again I don't know yet how noisy, how rough and how badly they handle...
A real concern communicated to me on another board:
sandgroper said:
This is spot on and would leave me a bit high and dry. And yet, I was keen on getting a Willy's at one stage - I am kind of pragmatic about handling and don't need all the luxuries if I get a rounded package. Then again I don't know yet how noisy, how rough and how badly they handle...
A BJ with all the mod cons that this has (A/C and especially P/S) is a dream to drive daily. with regular maintenance it is very reliable..
I have driven my daily for the last 3yrs without being left stranded once. I have had regular services every 5000kms. I have done a lot myself and set it up for max articulation (at the sacrafice of some drivability). With the 2nd bj42 I purchased I noticed it had a heap less body roll than my first one and was quite comfortable to drive (it has had my recaro's transplanted into it though) as it has standard suspension. I have had a set of spare hoses and belts in the car for the last 3 years and never needed them. I have had a bit of carnage but that has been through some rough 4wd'ing and is to be expected.
if you keep it relatively stock it will be all good. I had my first 40 setup for flex and it took a bit to get it to ride ok (i need a better valved set of shocks)..
you need to remember though you are driving a truck.. its not that quick off the mark, and takes a bit to get up to speed. It will slow down a bit on steep grades, but it will keep going and going and going.
The turning circle is great. parking is a breeze.. its a mad truck that you wont regret purchasing..
you should see what incentives you can offer the seller to maybe drop his price.. can you get cash? will he do it cheaper for cash?
is it to be sold with RWC? if so will he sell it cheaper without RWC?
I have NEVER seen a BJ42 in such good condition in regards to the body and chassis.. if you maintain what they have done to date and keep it away from the beach and sand you will keep that pristine body for many years to come. you will most likely be able to keep the 3b for just as long with regular maintenance..
It will be an investment that you will kick yourself if you miss. I agree that $10,000 is way too much and personally i would only part with as much as $8,000 but that is just me.. you need to decide what it is worth to you..
if you want to talk more about it feel free to give me a call.. you have my number..
cheers,
andrew
Looks like a nice truck. If you got tired of it you could ship it over this way and make a profit.
slight highjack...
In the 4th photo down - there's a breather or fill tube connected at the rear of the transfer case. Anyone used this setup before? Looks like a breather connected at the oil fill plug.
slight highjack...
In the 4th photo down - there's a breather or fill tube connected at the rear of the transfer case. Anyone used this setup before? Looks like a breather connected at the oil fill plug.
It is a hose that is connected to the fill plug of the trans and of the tcase....with the intention of keeping the oil levels in check because the seal between the two gearboxes likely needs to be replaced....and this is a 'cheap fix'.
here's an example/explanation
from spector off road's website http://www.sor.com/sor/partpict.tam...scriptionpg.ctx=Page 062 4 speed Transmission
and yes, it does mean that there will eventually be a point at which you have to fix it properly, but folks have run these for a long time
from spector off road's website http://www.sor.com/sor/partpict.tam...scriptionpg.ctx=Page 062 4 speed Transmission
and yes, it does mean that there will eventually be a point at which you have to fix it properly, but folks have run these for a long time
- Thread starter
- #33
Might be a new BJ owner around soon ...
Fascinating,
I guess this is not a major piece of work and not likely to be something that would be a show stopper.
===========
Been back today and it looks like we might have a deal.
He has been good on price in so much as he is now including 12months rego, doing the roadworthy/safety cert with my mechanic (the guy who used to look after my TJ Jeep), regassing the aircon and replacing the second battery.
I have found that the most recently changed component was a new mechanical injection pump for the motor and that the "gates are were closed down on it at that time" yielding much better fuel economy but less power. The previous owner was offered to bring it back in and they would open them up for her but she liked the fuel economy so it never got changed.
Anyone want to comment on this? Is it expensive to get this done? Should I consider it much later on when the motor needs an overhaul or is it simple (I can see much research coming up on Diesel motors)
There is something I am told that is a bit dodgy about the timer on the glow starter - apparently it is a bit slow and this guy (who professes to have owned or come into contact with over 40 similar over the years) says that he replaces the timer with a push button you hold in for 5 secs and then turn the key.
That notwithstanding the motor turned over immediately after the slight pause on engaging the glow so it seemed ok to me...
It idles well.
I checked for rust in the roof - under the sils, around the rivets in the body, behind the rear wheels - none. None I could see at all.
I asked him about the "Popping out of fifth" and he acknowledged that it was a problem but that it doesn't do it, never has and that he didn't think he ever saw it with the 3B... I'm not sure I have that perfectly right but he didn't seem to think it was going to be an issue. Something about that only happening when really loading up when towing in 5th anyway...
Still yet to give it a good drive but we are going to do that next before lining up the roadworthy. We will do a good long highway drive and some offroad.
Oh, yeah, the modification plate is for the removal of the rear sideways facing seat so that it had to be declared as a 5 seater since the Australian compliance plate states 6.
I believe I should be able to get a seat somewhere in good order in the future.
With a bit of luck this little rig will be mine real soon; but still gotta get this bloody finance sorted
Fascinating,
I guess this is not a major piece of work and not likely to be something that would be a show stopper.
===========
Been back today and it looks like we might have a deal.
He has been good on price in so much as he is now including 12months rego, doing the roadworthy/safety cert with my mechanic (the guy who used to look after my TJ Jeep), regassing the aircon and replacing the second battery.
I have found that the most recently changed component was a new mechanical injection pump for the motor and that the "gates are were closed down on it at that time" yielding much better fuel economy but less power. The previous owner was offered to bring it back in and they would open them up for her but she liked the fuel economy so it never got changed.
Anyone want to comment on this? Is it expensive to get this done? Should I consider it much later on when the motor needs an overhaul or is it simple (I can see much research coming up on Diesel motors
)There is something I am told that is a bit dodgy about the timer on the glow starter - apparently it is a bit slow and this guy (who professes to have owned or come into contact with over 40 similar over the years) says that he replaces the timer with a push button you hold in for 5 secs and then turn the key.
That notwithstanding the motor turned over immediately after the slight pause on engaging the glow so it seemed ok to me...
It idles well.
I checked for rust in the roof - under the sils, around the rivets in the body, behind the rear wheels - none. None I could see at all.
I asked him about the "Popping out of fifth" and he acknowledged that it was a problem but that it doesn't do it, never has and that he didn't think he ever saw it with the 3B... I'm not sure I have that perfectly right but he didn't seem to think it was going to be an issue. Something about that only happening when really loading up when towing in 5th anyway...
Still yet to give it a good drive but we are going to do that next before lining up the roadworthy. We will do a good long highway drive and some offroad.
Oh, yeah, the modification plate is for the removal of the rear sideways facing seat so that it had to be declared as a 5 seater since the Australian compliance plate states 6.
I believe I should be able to get a seat somewhere in good order in the future.
With a bit of luck this little rig will be mine real soon; but still gotta get this bloody finance sorted
Ok, You Are Killing Me............ Have You Gotten It Yet? This Is Better TheN WatchING A Movie Drama. And I Am At The Edge Of My Seat Waiting To See The Outcome.
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- Thread starter
- #35
well I am going to arrange the safety certificate with the seller today for later this week and get some insurance quotes today since market value comprehensive will not do - I probably need to go to a classic car insurer who will work with an agreed value etc...
Stay tuned...
Will
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*drool* even I couldn't chop something that straight (BUY IT ALREADY!)
- Thread starter
- #38
Insurance quotes are in, finance request lodged, rego, chassis and engine numbers unencumbered, safety certificate/roadworthy organized through my own mechanic for Monday.
Test driving this weekend.
I have confirmed my intention to buy pending satisfactory roadworthy and test drive. Looks like we may have a new BJ owner within 7 days.
Some Questions I am researching now:
What is the stock wheel and tyre that this vehicle runs?
This is what it has - and I can't calculate the outside rolling diameter from this figure because it seems missing the aspect ratio:
http://www.dunlopsuperdealer.com.au/showtyredsd.php?tyre=0000000736104
205R16LT 112N TL O/LANDER OLY
Does it run 3.73 ratios stock?
What is "closing the gate down" all about with a diesel? Is it a big change to open it up again?? I will be able to sus out the power and milage (supposed to be better than 30miles to the gallon) and decide later.
Test driving this weekend.
I have confirmed my intention to buy pending satisfactory roadworthy and test drive. Looks like we may have a new BJ owner within 7 days.
Some Questions I am researching now:
What is the stock wheel and tyre that this vehicle runs?
This is what it has - and I can't calculate the outside rolling diameter from this figure because it seems missing the aspect ratio:
http://www.dunlopsuperdealer.com.au/showtyredsd.php?tyre=0000000736104
205R16LT 112N TL O/LANDER OLY
Does it run 3.73 ratios stock?
What is "closing the gate down" all about with a diesel? Is it a big change to open it up again?? I will be able to sus out the power and milage (supposed to be better than 30miles to the gallon) and decide later.
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stadard tyre size should be 7.50xr16 which equates roughly to 31".. the tires taht are on it should be sufficent until they no longer have legal tread..
the diffs should be 4.11 meaning with 31's your speedo is correct..
dunno bout the "Closing the gate" i would suspect it would be similar to turning down the fuel to achieve a similar result..
oh.. and in regards to insurers, as mentioned i am with Suncopr and have an extensive list of mods and accessories.. i have also changed my policy from market value to an agreed value of $7000 for a slight increase in premium.. this equates to roughly $350-400/p.a. for insurance
im home now if you want to call tonight or tomorrow.. damn flights out of sydney were congested due to storms..
cheers,
Andrew
the diffs should be 4.11 meaning with 31's your speedo is correct..
dunno bout the "Closing the gate" i would suspect it would be similar to turning down the fuel to achieve a similar result..
oh.. and in regards to insurers, as mentioned i am with Suncopr and have an extensive list of mods and accessories.. i have also changed my policy from market value to an agreed value of $7000 for a slight increase in premium.. this equates to roughly $350-400/p.a. for insurance
im home now if you want to call tonight or tomorrow.. damn flights out of sydney were congested due to storms..
cheers,
Andrew
Hurry up & buy it already, need someone to drive with next time I'm on a road trip.
Those stock rims? Look very bling
Those stock rims? Look very bling
