Advice before I start on the timing belt replacement job?

[ppressle]

Check out my waterpump @ 110k! It was due! Quite a bit of coolant leaking and residue on it. I had no idea on the condition till I opened it up.

I was worried about compressing the tensioner as well, but I found that my bench vise did a fine job compressing it back in. Just went nice and slow and it was happy. Seemed to resist if I tried to go too quickly.

Pete

 

[rockclmbr]

I'm prepping to do this task. Can somebody please post more info on replacing the seals? Since I'm in there I might as well do the Crank seal and Cam seal but I've never done this before and want a heads up on what I will be getting into.

Thanks!

 

[donco]

timing belt

I'm prepping to do this task. Can somebody please post more info on replacing the seals? Since I'm in there I might as well do the Crank seal and Cam seal but I've never done this before and want a heads up on what I will be getting into.

Thanks!

Just did mine last week at 100k. No signs of oil leaking whatsoever, so left the seals alone -- I'll do them next time at 200k. Automatically buy new OEM idlers, belt, water pump. New thermostat/hoses optional. Dealer doesn't keep tensioners in stock & says they easily go 200-300k before replacing. Do a visual on it, if it's not leaking, you can safely re-use it.

When removing the fan, put a wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner to tighten the belt for loosening the fan nuts and loosen the belt to rotate the next nuts into postion. Be sure to rotate the crank 50 degrees past TDC when removing/installing the timing belt, cams will stay put if you don't disturb them.

I had plenty of room to work on it without taking the radiator out, put a sheet of cardboard against it to save your knuckles & protect the fins. Unless you remove the block coolant drain plugs, another quart or so of coolant will gush out when removing the waterpump so have a pan ready.

 

[ppressle]

I also left the seals alone when I did my timing belt. I have the parts, but it looked like the only way to safely get the crank seal out was with a real seal puller. I also did not have a real installer which was a concern.

The dang things are deep enough in the engine that is was going to be significant work to redo it if I was not able to do it perfectly.

I decided that if it was not yet leaking, I would leave it alone for now.


The water pump on the other hand is a no brainer.

Good luck.
Pete

 

[rockclmbr]

Timing Belt + extras labor from local auto mechanic

I was quoted $385 for 5.5 hours of labor on:

100 series Timing Belt, R&R pulleys, Accessory Belt, water pump + gasket, and tensioner. I have all the parts sitting here from CDan. Should I pay the $385 or spend my Presidents weekend working on it? Keep in mind this is Silicone Valley labor rates.

Oh, and they have done one before on a 1998 Land Cruiser. It is a shop I trust.

 

[calamaridog]

I can't believe you have to ask at those rates

What are you going to do with your free time? Wheel the 80?

 

[rockclmbr]

unfortunately I may be rebuilding the brake master cylinder in the 80

 

[calamaridog]

unfortunately I may be rebuilding the brake master cylinder in the 80

Sounds easier than doing the t-belt in a 100

 

[rockclmbr]

Yep, I can R&R the Master Cylinder and still have time to kick back with a beer !

 

[rockclmbr]

My Staurday went like this:

8am - drop 100 series off at local mechanic to R/R T-belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belt, thermostat, cam and crank seals, timing pulleys, drain/fill cooling system.

9am - R/R brake master cylinder on the 80 series, see link for more info: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78824

along with new throttle cable (mine felt very inconsistent) and 2 bleed jobs. Complete by 1:30pm thanks to Patpend2000's assistance.

1:30pm - R/R new brass core radiator all hoses, and belts on PatPend2000's 1991 80 series. Toyota sure did bury the radiator!

2pm - local mechanic is all doen with the 100, no issues!

6:30pm, finished radiator!

I don't think either of us will pick up a tool for a few days. My arms are sore!!!

If anyone in the Bay Area needs the 100 series or LX470 90k miles service, I highly recommend these guys. Please PM me for details. I paid $385 for labor and supplied the parts. No affiliation.

 

[ppressle]

Pete, if you don't mind posting the region you live in, it would give a good idea if the warmer or colder climates induce stress on the T-belt. Since yours was "new" looking even after 110k it would be a good gauge for us living in the moderate temperature zones. I would like to postpone this task as much as possible

Hi all.

I am in the sf bay area. Pretty much the definition of a moderate climate.

Here (finally) is a picture of my timing belt:

High res pictures here

Overall the belt looked good, but there are two areas where some kind of stitching is coming undone. You can see it pretty clearly in then high res pics...

It probably could have gone a bit further, but seeing the stitching, I am glad it is swapped out.

Pete

 

[Tinkerer]

Hi all.

I am in the sf bay area. Pretty much the definition of a moderate climate.

High res pictures here

Overall the belt looked good, but there are two areas where some kind of stitching is coming undone. You can see it pretty clearly in then high res pics...

It probably could have gone a bit further, but seeing the stitching, I am glad it is swapped out.

Pete

Holy cow - only 112k miles? Loose stitching!

Dunno what the various compounds are in these belts, but ozone attacks rubber & many synthetic compounds, so if SF Bay area has high ozone (like some of those OTHER areas of CA) the ozone may degrade belts faster, never mind the sunny skies & 69 F weather.

My timing belt looked great by comparison, at 90k, but looks do not tell the whole story with belts. (Reinforcement is where the strength is, and it can be degraded without visual clues.)

 

[SWUtah]

Holy cow - only 112k miles? Loose stitching!

Dunno what the various compounds are in these belts, but ozone attacks rubber & many synthetic compounds, so if SF Bay area has high ozone (like some of those OTHER areas of CA) the ozone may degrade belts faster, never mind the sunny skies & 69 F weather.

My timing belt looked great by comparison, at 90k, but looks do not tell the whole story with belts. (Reinforcement is where the strength is, and it can be degraded without visual clues.)

Mine was almost 7 years old with only 58K miles on it when I changed it. It "might" or "might not" of made it another 30K miles or couple of years but the water pump was also starting to weep. Mine lived its life in southern AZ. I would recommend that everyone follow Toyota's recommendation of years and mileage. This is something that should not be pushed.