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Yes there's an arm inside the pump that pushes on the rotary collar (forget what's it's called) and advances the timing.can someone explain how the ACSD works? i understand it uses thermowax via coolant temperature, but does that little black arm engage something inside the IP to change the timing?
YesBut once the engine is warmed up, it stops functioning correct?
You need to unbolt that to access one of the bolts holding the ACSD but once removed you put that back in place. This is the ACSD unit. I did this a couple weeks ago, it took 30 min.Ok, makes sense to me now, and i assume at the same time, the spring on the outside, opens the throttle a little more too?
my second question, as i'm tackling the delete this weekend, the parts i highlighted in the picture below, are not part of the ACSD, and stay in place right?
View attachment 3553764
That's normal, it should have zero effect on throttle until it's supplied with vacuum. What does your engine rpm do when the ac compressor engages? The manual says to adjust it so the rpm increases slightly but I preferred to adjust mine so the engine rpm stayed the exact same. I didn't like the jolting in speed it would give me when low speed crawling at idle rpm when I'm driving with windows up and ac on which is 99% of the time in my climate.only thing im curious about is that the AC idle up arm now, doesn't have tension on it from the ACSD and just hangs loose not contacting the throttle linkage, do i need to tighten the set screw so it makes contact?
View attachment 3558008
thanks, i just confirmed it still works and bumps the rpm's up by 100 or so when i click on the AC compressor.That's normal, it should have zero effect on throttle until it's supplied with vacuum. What does your engine rpm do when the ac compressor engages? The manual says to adjust it so the rpm increases slightly but I preferred to adjust mine so the engine rpm stayed the exact same. I didn't like the jolting in speed it would give me when low speed crawling at idle rpm when I'm driving with windows up and ac on which is 99% of the time in my climate.
If the head is snapped off, you should still be able to remove the ACSD. If so, get it out of the way first. After that, block off the hole in your IP that is left with tape, and spray a good bit of penetrant on the bolt and let it sit, apply heat as well if you are able. After letting it soak (overnight, or a few hours at least), get a small pair of channel locks and bite gently onto the remaining tip. Wiggle it back and forth until it clicks free. Be careful, this is a brass bolt, and soft, it also should not be torqued much. I got a bolt out of my top end like this, it takes patience, but it's better than the alternative.Hey guys, I just ordered a delete kit that should be in here shortly. Yesterday while changing my fuel filter I started to inspect the pump to preplan the work that is needed. The head to the top bolt for the acsd (out of the two bolts) is currently snapped off. The head of the screw is still in place due to acsd blocking the screw from coming out all the day. Truck runs fine and surprisingly doesn’t leak. I’m not sure how long it’s been broken for. Honestly could’ve been the previous owners doing years ago. Maybe the screw is completely stripped out and that’s what allows it to move in and out freely, but I think the head is snapped off with part of the threads. Any ideas or tips to get the broken screw out? It’ll be really difficult to drill it out due to it being a LHD model so the steering box is blocking access from the wheel well and greatly limiting the workspace.
I’m going to take the acsd off this weekend so I can get a better look at everything. I hope the machine screw is just snapped in half and it’s not the threads that are stripped out on the pump side. I don’t think I could redrill and tap the hole without metal getting into the pump. Right now the machine screw just moves in and out freely. Only held in by the acsd blocking it from coming out all of the way.If the head is snapped off, you should still be able to remove the ACSD. If so, get it out of the way first. After that, block off the hole in your IP that is left with tape, and spray a good bit of penetrant on the bolt and let it sit, apply heat as well if you are able. After letting it soak (overnight, or a few hours at least), get a small pair of channel locks and bite gently onto the remaining tip. Wiggle it back and forth until it clicks free. Be careful, this is a brass bolt, and soft, it also should not be torqued much. I got a bolt out of my top end like this, it takes patience, but it's better than the alternative.