Send it. My rust freeish Florida rig hatch went from no rust to crusty in just two years of winter up here. The roads are brutal and I am usually following the salt truck to work.
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And I’m s*** scared of getting under a jacked up car.
What's the best way to get rid of that rubberized undercoating?
Grab some 2x4s and make a set of these. I’ve had mine for 15 years and they’ll probably hold up an ocean liner.And I’m s*** scared of getting under a jacked up car.
I live in the salt belt like you and rust is just a way of life. I don't think you overpaid at all at $17k. A true rust free '06 would be more $$ than you paid up here in New England. I highly doubt the dealership used Por15 as it takes a lot of prep and costs much more than bulk rubber undercoating that requires no prep.
There is a guy in CT who will sandblast the undercarriage and apply the top coat of your choice for about $600. PM me if you're interested - I'd have to see if I can find his contact info.
I treat mine annually with Krown, NH Oil Undercoating, and now CRC marine corrosion inhibitor (which I like the best). My undercarriage looks the same as yours.
Don't stress over it. You're about to get married and buy a house - you have much more stressful things to worry about
The fact you haven't burned the place to the ground shows some impressive self control.Yes it was. I think they used rubber undercoat. I feel a bit scammed.
How did you apply CRC(is this Cosmoline?) over the oil based products?
This is my favorite comparison video and the one that got me to try CRC marine corrosion inhibitor. RP-342 is part of the test.
Thats a great looking truck.
Keeping in mind that many iron components are designed for intentional oxidation. The oxidized layer provides corrosion resistance for the material beneath it. Same theory as used on power/transfer/telecom poles/etc. I've never seen a diff or axle tube compromised by corrosion. Brackets yes. I'm curious if this intentional oxidation is part of the design.
Also, awesome shop.