Accelerator Pedal Binding - cable linkage

[S4Cruiser]

I searched and didn't see mention of this issue...

In the process of reassembling my 1970 40 series and am curious if the gas pedal is performing normal. I'm running a late model 2f and Aisin carb, with bell crank and new throttle cable. Also running the 1970 period correct pedal with firewall bracket.

My issue is that when pressure is applied to the pedal, it wants to bind, requiring more pressure then it sorta breaks free and rotates appropriately. After inspection, the rod (from the pedal) that passes through the spring and bracket mounted on the firewall is grooved (I'll get a pic up later today) from what I assume is 40 years of service. I checked the SOR diagrams and I've got the bracket, spring, and washer installed appropriately. The cable does not appear to be the issue as it moves freely when pulling on it by hand.

Would a new pedal remediate this binding or do I need to adjust something so the pedal operates (pushes down without binding) correctly.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I had exactly the same problem

I put in a combination of thicker and thinner washers to position the rod differently in the bracket - found a position where it wouldn't bind

a new pedal eliminates the cause of problem altogether - if you get a new pedal, make sure it has the tab for the hand throttle, so you have the option of installing one later

 

[Downey]

Or you could consider merely up-grading the pedal you have now. You could get a couple of the McMaster Carr oil embedded bronze sleeve bushings, slide over your defective/worn pedal shaft, then drill out the firewall mounting bracket for the O.D. of the bronze bushings. I think what you would need is something similar to 2 of McMaster Carr part number 6391K156 (I'm not sure of the O.D. of the Toyota pedal shaft, this could change the part number you would need). Then at the end of the day you'd have a pedal that is smoother than stock.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the bushing idea seems solid. I noticed similar wear on my pedal shaft when I swapped my fj62 throttle cable onto it (to replace the oem 73 cable that was short, kinking and bound up).. if you weld, then the whole pedal assy could be bent and burnt from plain 13mm rod...

 

[Downey]

the bushing idea seems solid. I noticed similar wear on my pedal shaft when I swapped my fj62 throttle cable onto it (to replace the oem 73 cable that was short, kinking and bound up).. if you weld, then the whole pedal assy could be bent and burnt from plain 13mm rod...

13mm is just a tic over 1/2", that seems radically large for the pedal shaft ???

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

does it? I tend to see things as bigger than other people tell me they are....

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

perhaps it is only a 10mm rod...

 

[S4Cruiser]

I had exactly the same problem

I put in a combination of thicker and thinner washers to position the rod differently in the bracket - found a position where it wouldn't bind

a new pedal eliminates the cause of problem altogether - if you get a new pedal, make sure it has the tab for the hand throttle, so you have the option of installing one later

Or you could consider merely up-grading the pedal you have now. You could get a couple of the McMaster Carr oil embedded bronze sleeve bushings, slide over your defective/worn pedal shaft, then drill out the firewall mounting bracket for the O.D. of the bronze bushings. I think what you would need is something similar to 2 of McMaster Carr part number 6391K156 (I'm not sure of the O.D. of the Toyota pedal shaft, this could change the part number you would need). Then at the end of the day you'd have a pedal that is smoother than stock.

the bushing idea seems solid. I noticed similar wear on my pedal shaft when I swapped my fj62 throttle cable onto it (to replace the oem 73 cable that was short, kinking and bound up).. if you weld, then the whole pedal assy could be bent and burnt from plain 13mm rod...

Super feedback, many thanks. The bushing idea seems so simple and straightforward...should've considered it myself. Tunnel vision from all the odds and ends has me frazzled.

I'll post up my mods / end solution here for folks to reference. Stay tuned.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Ha...being lucky is nice. Was all set to waste my afternoon running from store to store hunting bushings...then remembered I had a set of bronze hinge pin bushing that I got from Alex a long time ago and never used. These suckers almost fit with zero mods.

A little Emory cloth on the shaft and open up/make the bracket holes round again and I'll be in business!! Final pics later this evening!

 

[65swb45]

Tell Alex he has another marketing angle...and we have another opportunity to support a MUD member. A win-win.

 

[DSRTRDR]

the downside is: you still don't have a tab to attach a hand throttle

 

[S4Cruiser]

Got this sorted earlier. Only took a couple passes with emory cloth and the bushing slide on. The holes in the spring bracket had to be enlarged, which a stepped drill bit made quick work of. Ended up making the holes 11/32 which is just slightly larger than the O.D. of the bushings. Lubed her up with some grease and it's nice and smooth now.

Also hit the pedal with poor mans plating (Rustoleum hammered gold) and slapped on a new rubber pad. Now if I could just get a throttle cable that is short enough to not have to run in a circle then I'd be set.

 

[S4Cruiser]

the downside is: you still don't have a tab to attach a hand throttle

Yep..damn PO decided he liked the pedal with parts ripped off

 

[DSRTRDR]

not all original pedals came with tabs for hand throttle (the OEM pedal on my '72 didn't either) - but there are pedals with a tab that fit

 

[bikersmurf]

FYI, 'Oilite' makes oil impregnated bronze bushings that come in all kinds of sizes. For anyone who doesn't have bushings kicking around, I'd highly recommend them... high quality and they should never wear out.