Accelerating while turning issue

[JBHorne]

Strange issue here that seems to have just started maybe a month or so ago. When turning corners, if I accelerate through the turn, it feels as if the rear is kicking out. It's as if the car was attempting to drift on it's own; you can feel the rear kicking outward from the driver's seat. It does not happen when going through a turn without accelerating, so I don't think it's a suspension/alignment/frame issue.

For what it's worth, I do have an ARB rear locker, but if that were engaged during a turn, it's an entirely different sensation. This feels more like the 4wd system is out of "balance" and the rear is driving faster than the front. Could this be a center locker perhaps? Again, strange that it only occurs when accelerating, so must be drive line related I would think...

Oh, and it happens when turning either direction.

Any ideas?

 

[Desert Nomad]

Silly question but did you check your tires. The only time I feel the rear trying to come out on road is when it's wet

 

[Willy beamin]

I was reading that if the rear is lifted the pinion can end up at a funky angle and cause a vibration in the driveline and it shows up during turns. Might kick that thought around.

I experience the vibration in my rig when turning on this curve in my neighborhood every morning so I have convinced myself that's what the deal is. I've been eye balling these as a possible solution - but I'm not willing to pay the asking price - at all-

 

[JBHorne]

When accelerating, ever since the vehicle was lifted it pulls to the right. You noticeably have to hold the steering wheel to the left to go straight. It only occurs during acceleration and I've been assured it isn't an alignment issue. The dealer just chocks it up to torque steer. Wondering if these two issues are related.

Those TC parts you posted, I'm not sure where all of that would be installed??? I do have the ICON rear lower control arms and set them to the same length as stock. As they are adjustable, how would I figure out what the proper length should be?

I'm not sure what it's called, but there is also that one bar on the rear that extends from the lower left on the axle to the upper right of the body. I've heard that probably needs to be extended, but quite frankly, haven't got around to it.

 

[Willy beamin]

I run the icon rear trailing arms as well. What I'm interested in is the upper links and the pan hard bar. Would be nice to find those available.
tough dog makes them but I haven't found it state side. The photo above was just a visual reference of what I'm thinking could help with the vibrations during turning. The total chaos is more $ than I care to spend and I don't need the trailing arms.

the upper links can be seen installed in the attached photo (really you only see the red bushings), as well as the pan hard bar.

 

[JBHorne]

Almost $2K! Holy cow! I'm sure I could get a custom panhard bar made. Actually, what would be easiest is to cut it and weld in a piece of tube steel that could act as a sheeth (id of tube sheath = od of oem bar).

I'm actually not a fan of the zerks used on the ICON LCAs. I have no idea how to grease them -- there is no nipple to latch onto, only a simple ball bearing. When I attempt to press a grease gun against the ball bearing, it simply shoots grease back out. Have you ever lubed yours?

 

[Willy beamin]

yes - I've tried to grease them with the same results you mentioned. you can wipe grease on the nipple but can't get it in the hole - ha ha ..... @arich was kind enough to find and posted a delux grease fitment kit that would probably be the right mix of doodads to reach those difficult areas - I have yet to buy the kit - but will.

 

[JBHorne]

Not sure that will help me. I have a kit, and it's only the straight tip that you need, it's just that there is simple too much compression in the bushings to PUSH grease into them. I can't put enough pressure on the tip to not have grease spilling out right at the fitting. It's one of these fittings:

http://i49.tinypic.com/4grqyv.jpg

 

[TexAZ]

@JBHorne have you contacted Icon about the fitting they use on the bushings. We used similar fittings on prototype vehicles in Yuma, they require a "needle" grease gun fitting. High pressure to pump it too...sucked. Save your money on the kit and just get the fitting you need. $18.
I would check all the control/panhard bar bushings too. sounds like the @$$ end is getting loose on you.

Before I installed my lift I spoke with the guys at Icon and they recommended rebuilding their coilovers at 50k miles street driving and 30K if you "Play hard". your radflos may be due for rebuild.

 

[JBHorne]

How often do you have to replace the bushings on the LCAs and also the TC UCAs up front? Maybe I should just replace them instead of trying to grease them. To be honest, the shop I go to probably has never done them. I asked them to, and my understanding was the same as my own, that they couldn't get the grease in there as there is no way to "clip" or hold the needle in there like there are with the typical coupling-style zerks.