Nice write up and great pics. This will be of benefit to others in the future. Good job.
AC System Slow Leak (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MTrun
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How did you get this out I remember trying to do this to replace the glove box dampener and I couldn't reach the other bolt or nut. It was so far in there i couldnt even see it.
- Thread starter
- #23
Biga - check out this video around the 1:15 mark. It is a right hand drive model but ours are the exact same mirrored.
There is one obvious bolt at the lower left end of the glove box, one nut next to the dampener, and then tug the carpet back next to the center console to expose the third bolt/fastener. Once they are out, make sure you slide the top of the metal brace off of its stud (since it was a nut the other two were bolts) and the the metal brace slides out the glove box opening - should not have to force anything.
Two bolts and one nut (sorry, the nut at the top is partially obscured here by the yellow cable connector in this photo)
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Thank you so much me and a couple other members were always looking for this info. I never knew about the bolt near the center console thank you so much. This should be its own thread.
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- #25
Anytime!
This guy keeps saying to use this stuff, but I was told not to use anything but the recommended Denso nd-8 compressor oil.
Anything new introduced into the system you risk blocking stuff like the condenser/compressor.
Wouldn't bother with nylog.
Nice vids @MTrun . Didn't realise you could pull that lower metal bracket completely off. I just bent mine right in, needed to play with a bit later to get the glove box aligned. I replaced the full shamozzle. Condenser, pressure switch, evap core, tx valve, thermistor sensor everything. Still managed to get the plastic/foam trim underneath the evap core in place. Noticed no TX Valve black/tacky/tape ... I reused it and put it back on the new TX Valve. Need to cut the evap box to get a full length cabin filter in, as I found out my filter is only covering half of the evap box essentially. No idea why Toyota did that in the RHD 105s. No wonder the evaps end up clogged up and eventually don't work/leak. letting everything through
And this would be extremely poor advice. Nylog is NOT an additive, it is a localized sealant used by A/C professionals *folks that actually know what they are doing* for over 25 years. It is a proven product that is 100 percent compatible with all refrigerants and oils. It will NOT *can not* cause blockage of anything.
Do your homework. More likely the advice you received was targeted at not adding things like 'system sealers', dyes and the like, which I agree with in most cases. But Nylog does not fall into that category. In fact, if you'll watch the video provided by @MTrun above, you'll see the technician using NYLOG. Why....? Because it works, its safe and folks that do this for a living don't want to have leaks or do a job all over again.
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How can you be so sure it has no effect on any of the parts in the system. For example, the condenser has very very fine holes, aren't you worried this stuff would break down and eventually corrode inside something. Why would Denso themselves say don't add anything else except their own pag oil to the system. I've never seen Denso or Toyota manual stating you can use Nylog Blue for anything. You seem to be a little bit defensive about it, I'm just telling you what a reputable/long time dealer NATRAD said. They are experts in Radiator and AC systems. Makes no sense for them to give incorrect information. I explained to him what it was, and it is sold here in Australia. I also said that fridge techs state that it is great for sealing components. AND He strictly SAID, do not add introduce anything except the specified oil. My system is now pressure tested, holds the correct vacuum. I want to know why you would recommend putting this in the system still?
You do realise that all you need to do is put a slight bit of pag oil around the orings and they do a great job, even after untightening and tightening them to torque multiple times with the new orings in still ? Just baffles me why anyone would need to put this stuff in, just because you recommend it ?
Do my homework, right . I replace an entire cars AC system by myself but still need to do my homework lol. Dude, dont make s*** up by saying the advice I received was crap. I've read the manual, I've watched the DENSO videos. And additionally, long time AC system repairer said DO NOT put anything else in.
Up to you if you want to do it, but I'm just saying it is completely unecessary.
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No. Because all Nylog is, is a synthetic oil itself. Fully miscible with PAG46. And yes, I am quite aware the construction of condensers over the years. Anytime you'd like to discuss that, just let me know.
Best Gasket and Thread Sealant For AII HVAC Systems - Nylog Blue
Nylog Blue is a sealant that prevents gaskets and fittings from leaking in HVAC systems by creating a temperature and vibration resistant seal.
www.refrigtech.com
"Nylog Blue is an elastic fluid made from synthetic refrigeration grade compressor oil. Nylog Blue is fully miscible and compatible with all system refrigerants and oils. Gaskets coated with Nylog will never dry or become heat fixed to the surface. Threaded connections coated with Nylog will block high pressure leaks by forming a hydraulic seal. Nylog can be used an assembly lube when installing shaft seals, o-rings, schraeder valves, ball valves, or other internal system components.
- Will not Contaminate Systems
- Seals Flares and Threaded Connections
- Lubricates O-Rings and Gaskets
- Approved by OEM Manufacturers"
Why does GM say to only use their products? Why does Ford say to use only Motorcraft products? Why do they NOT void warranties if aftermarket products *of like specifications are used*? In the industry PAG46 is considered a direct replacement for Denso's ND-8. There is no appreciable difference. Yes, you'll not find any recommendations in the manual for using Nylog. Nor will you find any for installing 33" tires, modding a fan clutch, using ArmorAll to clean your interior. All of these things being beneficial in certain ways. But if you are dogmatic and the FSM is your Holy Grail.....be my guest and follow it only.
You have chosen to put stock in what a 'dealer' has 'parroted' *not a chemist or technician in the industry* . No doubt a 'blanket' statement to cover the several ways their components could be compromised I.E. system leak sealers, dyes, flushing agents, unapproved refrigerants, etc..... I have no affiliation with Nylog or reason to promote it other than recognizing it as a good and safe product. I suggest its use as an aid to others, nothing more or less.
That is fine...and I hope it continues to hold for you. And again....you seem to misunderstand the correct use of the product...so I will try once more. It is NOT put IN the system, though it will mix with the refrigerant oil if some does get in there.
Yes, I am aware the method of lubricating the O-Rings prior to assembly. And the FSM even states to use the PAG oil to do so. Here again, there is a 'better' method. Professionals *that care* will use Nylog or Mineral Oil to lube the O-rings instead of PAG oil. The reason for this is that PAG oil is incredibly hygroscopic *attracts moisture*. Moisture and PAG oil as you are no doubt aware combine over time *with heat* to form an acid. Acid then causes corrosion *typically found on mating surfaces or threads*. In practice....IF the parts are quickly assembled it isn't a big problem, but it does happen. Why would you not want to use the 'best' procedures?
Sir, I have no idea your skills or qualifications. But if you'd like to compare degrees and experience in the field, I am happy to do so. You are free to repair any system as you see fit. Also, free to express your opinions and experiences here.
I believe the long time use of the product in the industry....speaks for itself. I further believe that the product is particularly useful for the DIYer who might not get connections just 'right' and Nylog can be helpful there.
I would only suggest you allow yourself to be a bit more 'open minded' about things. You might just learn something. I am ever the student....and that is a large part of why I come here, maybe you can do the same?
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- Thread starter
- #31
All good guys. I will leave the Nylog decision up to the user. Wanted to post another update. After crying myself to sleep for a few nights about the broken bolt at the rear cooling unit where the lines come in, I went back at it again. SUCCESS! I had to remove the right rear mud flap to give better access, then hit it with a pilot hole then a 13/64 drill bit. After initially bungling the top the rest went straight down the middle of the snapped bolt taking out the bolt and even left most of the original female threads intact - no helicoil required. That is one advantageof drilling our aluminumi suppose! I may still add helicoil, but this was a HUGE step forward. Now I need to choose where to source the two high pressure lines: dealer, cruiserparts.net or McGeorge?
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- Thread starter
- #33
Does anyone have advice on how to prevent premature wear at the clamps going forward? I see one service center out there in the Midwest who says they put a small section of anti-seize then wrap it in tape to prevent the grime from wearing away the pipes at the attachment points. Any thoughts or experience out there on that one?
I disagree with everything you say. You talk to much, not an insult - just an observation.
DENSO made the technology and says to only put DENSO pag oil in their own compressors/AC Systems. They did not build/test/design the equipment with additional variables. I should be the one saying, 'if you want to put that in your system, it is your choice'. Stop selling it to everyone that it is a good idea, because nobody from DENSO of a professional car AC repairer would recommend it either. I do agree with your point on the DIYer can use it, because that is most likely the only people that would use it
after you've sold it off as being this 100 year old fix for sealing AC system connections. Can I also reiterate my point, where I said it's completely unnecessary ANYWAY, because new orings, lubed with the correct ND-8 oil do the job EFFECTIVELY.
Of course you do. I expected nothing less.
Duly noted. I'll work on being more concise. You work on being more open minded.
DENSO made the technology and says to only put DENSO pag oil in their own compressors/AC Systems. They did not build/test/design the equipment with additional variables. I should be the one saying, 'if you want to put that in your system, it is your choice'. Stop selling it to everyone that it is a good idea, because nobody from DENSO of a professional car AC repairer would recommend it either. I do agree with your point on the DIYer can use it, because that is most likely the only people that would use it
I've made my case for it. And for the record it was from 'professionals' that I first learned of it many years ago.
Do as you wish, others can judge from themselves. This has taken the thread way off on a tangent *my apologies to the readership* so let's put it to bed.
You should also put an *apology* in there to the people you try palm this gimmick off too every time an AC thread comes up.Of course you do. I expected nothing less.
Duly noted. I'll work on being more concise. You work on being more open minded.
I've made my case for it. And for the record it was from 'professionals' that I first learned of it many years ago.
Do as you wish, others can judge from themselves. This has taken the thread way off on a tangent *my apologies to the readership* so let's put it to bed.
Something like - "I am sorry for convincing you to put this completely unnecesarry sealant in all my AC components".
are you talking about the black plastic clamps that hold the High and Low ports in place near the firewall? I made sure I didn't wreck those when I took them off.
PITA figuring out how to get em off. Seemed to click back on and do the job. Hope I didn't miss something when I reassembled them.
And the thousands of A/C professionals that use it in the course of their work are likewise 'palming' off a 'gimmick'....I suppose?
And once again.....you do NOT put the product 'IN' a component. It is NOT an additive. It is good insurance against leaks *immediately and in the future* and to help avoid any corrosion issues.
But....if any is introduced into the system....it is harmless. Over and over again....you seek to represent misuse of the product *adding it to the system*. I have corrected you several times *to no avail*. So maybe a word study is needed or comprehension skills sharpened a bit.
'not'
See synonyms for not on Thesaurus.com
adverb
(used to express negation, denial, refusal, or prohibition):
I do NOT hold the product up to be a 'must have' item in order to service an A/C system, never have. But I DO recommend it. It has a proven track record in the industry. If you choose NOT to use it... fine. It is NOT 'snake oil' as you suppose it to be. And frankly I am NOT certain why this is such a 'burr under your saddle'?
My purpose is to help the members here as much as I am able to do. Along the way....if I can share a helpful 'tip' I will do that. Nylog is one of those things....and I will continue to 'suggest' it despite your objections and blatant attack on my credibility.
Now....I am quite finished with going back and forth with the insufferable. Post your 'parting shot' now and lets be done with this.
You forgot the part where it is stated, BY DENSO, do NOT add anything foreign into their DENSO manufacturer/systems only DENSO ND-8 compressor oil.
What you are recommending is that people DO. This forum frequently recommends its members er on the side of caution by using OEM parts/service manual specifications.I am just pointing out what you are saying , however much you can defend this product, goes against DENSO and per even pro dealers advice.
But I'm 100% convinced you will defend away again... go for it with all the gobbledeegook.. w/out any factual research data to backup Nylog's marketing material you have produced thus far -- used to help sell their product. Of which their are a plethora of similar products. Of by what you are saying people may as well add all those as well while they're at it: Sealers/leak blockers/UV Dyes the whole 9 yards. Fair enough you go ahead and use it, I just feel like you should not be recommending it as the be all and end all. Orings do the job fine
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- Thread starter
- #40
Highkick05, thankfully those clips came off with the bobbypin / paperclip tool and clicked back on for me.
What I am wondering is long term how to reduce the wear of the grit in the rubber mounting sleeves in key points down the length of the rear line. Almost every one I opened up had traces of either pinhole leaks, or wear that was well on its way to creating pinhole leaks. Reading comments from others, that is why I decided to replace both of my high pressure lines running underneath the body, each of those points is suspect and learning from others, I could spend a long time chasing down individual leaks. I can only assume the grit that gathers in them acts as an abrasive and wears through the lines.
What can we do to reduce that wear? Or just accept it and replace the lines every 10-20 years?
One shop posted their fix online where they put a thin layer of anti-seize and then wrapped a short piece of electrical tape to add a 'wear layer' to the the line. Curious if anyone else has taken similar steps.
FYI - I ordered my rear high pressure lines (88726-60630 and 88726-60650) along with several of the support brackets that were in the worst shape today. The dealer had higher prices, but compared to the $100+ shipping online for these long pieces, I actually ended up going through the dealer for price and turnaround time. Cruiserparts, McGeorge & others do carry them as well.
What I am wondering is long term how to reduce the wear of the grit in the rubber mounting sleeves in key points down the length of the rear line. Almost every one I opened up had traces of either pinhole leaks, or wear that was well on its way to creating pinhole leaks. Reading comments from others, that is why I decided to replace both of my high pressure lines running underneath the body, each of those points is suspect and learning from others, I could spend a long time chasing down individual leaks. I can only assume the grit that gathers in them acts as an abrasive and wears through the lines.
What can we do to reduce that wear? Or just accept it and replace the lines every 10-20 years?
One shop posted their fix online where they put a thin layer of anti-seize and then wrapped a short piece of electrical tape to add a 'wear layer' to the the line. Curious if anyone else has taken similar steps.
FYI - I ordered my rear high pressure lines (88726-60630 and 88726-60650) along with several of the support brackets that were in the worst shape today. The dealer had higher prices, but compared to the $100+ shipping online for these long pieces, I actually ended up going through the dealer for price and turnaround time. Cruiserparts, McGeorge & others do carry them as well.
