I have an AC leak by the drier and it's leaking AC oil. Is there a way to measure how much oil is still in the system so I know how much to add? I just got a new drier in the mail along with a new expansion valve. I'm looking to dive into this job soon but I don't want to do all of this work just to have it crap out on me for having the wrong about on oil in it.
AC oil measurement? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jlg32281
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Leaking oil = leaking 134A. As for the oil level.....no way to know how much is in the system. If it is just oil residue, you will be ok for a while. If it is dripping, you will soon have problems.
I looked into that too. Indeed, seems like the only way to know for sure is to empty it completely and then add the OEM amount. Which of course will not help if you develop a leak. Of course, if you have a slow leak and lose both 134 and oil, you can add a can that includes both and hope for the best. Worked for many people I'm sure, and has worked for me several times. My guess would be that you're better off with too much oil than not enough, but that's just a guess.
Your going to have the system fully open to replace those parts. Pull the compressor, empty and measure the oil, flush system ,fill compressor with new oil and vacuum and fill with 134a. 2 cents MIke
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My leak isn't as bad as I thought. The past few days, it's been dripping from around the drier leaving a oil spot on my driveway about 8 inches in diameter. I haven't had a chance to look at it, I just assumed it was the AC oil since it was dripping from the drier. I actually popped the hood and made a nice discovery. An extra bottle of motor oil that I keep in the batter tray was leaking. I guess I will just add the amount the FSM says to add for changing the drier.
Side note, are the valve cores on the service ports available from Toyota? I know these are a common area for leaks and while I have the system open, I might as well replace them too.
Side note, are the valve cores on the service ports available from Toyota? I know these are a common area for leaks and while I have the system open, I might as well replace them too.
Pulling the compressor is just 4 bolts. Its the easiest part. Mike
Mike: are you saying you disconnect the hoses from the compressor also, then just tip the compressor over to let any oil drain out? Wondering, where does most of the oil go, the compressor, the dryer, condensor??
jlg: from what I can determine the cores may be part number 88374-30010. I'm not a parts expert and this is not confirmed yet as officially they are not available from Toyota as separate parts. I plan on ordering a few and comparing them to the originals and some aftermarket valves.
jlg: from what I can determine the cores may be part number 88374-30010. I'm not a parts expert and this is not confirmed yet as officially they are not available from Toyota as separate parts. I plan on ordering a few and comparing them to the originals and some aftermarket valves.
CoolStream a vendor here sells the Santech brand of valve cores. Just got off the phone with a local dealer parts guy, he said that's what their techs use when servicing Toyota's.
http://www.coolstreamac.com/
http://www.coolstreamac.com/
R-4 Compressor: 6 oz 525 refrigerant oil. Be careful here because most new and rebuilt compressors come with oil in them. Manual says to drain oil, measure and replace with same amount of new oil. I just checked to see if it had oil and saw quite a bit so I just installed it.
Evaporator: 3 fl. oz.
Condenser: 1 fl. oz
Accumulator: 2 fl. oz. Like the compressor, manual says to drain the old one, measure the amount of oil, add that amount plus 2 oz more (amount absorbed by the dryer media). I just added 2 oz. to mine.
Evaporator: 3 fl. oz.
Condenser: 1 fl. oz
Accumulator: 2 fl. oz. Like the compressor, manual says to drain the old one, measure the amount of oil, add that amount plus 2 oz more (amount absorbed by the dryer media). I just added 2 oz. to mine.
jlg: that would be great if you can document and post up some photos. Not sure if a flush is always required, someone will know. I had added the do-it-yourself stuff a few times along with a can of Freon with sealer so figure I got too many different chemicals floating around in my system.
As far as flushing goes, we typically only flush if the system is contaminated. Don't flush the compressor. If you need to remove the oil from the compressor, generally you'll need to take it off and drain it. If possible, disconnect the hoses and flush them, then flush the condenser. Put a rag or bucket over the open end of the line to catch the flush and minimize the mess, and you can also see how dirty the flush is. Ideally, you'd remove the expansion valve from the evaporator, but I know of people who leave it attached and flush through both pieces. I'd recommend a solvent based flush rather than an esther (oil) based flush. You can blow air through the pieces to remove any left-over flush, since vacuuming down the system should remove any moisture introduced by the air. Put the drier on last, after everything else is done.
jlg: no hijack intended
1972FJ55; is it absolutely mandatory to change out the dryer when replacing a few O-rings or the expansion valve? Was thinking that if the dryer has oil in it, how much moisture could get to the part that absorbs moisture? Would a prolonged vacuuming help remove extra moisture from the system, or do the dryers just go bad with time so replace it anyway?
1972FJ55; is it absolutely mandatory to change out the dryer when replacing a few O-rings or the expansion valve? Was thinking that if the dryer has oil in it, how much moisture could get to the part that absorbs moisture? Would a prolonged vacuuming help remove extra moisture from the system, or do the dryers just go bad with time so replace it anyway?
I would replace the drier, especially if you're replacing the expansion block. Two reasons: it's possible some debris got thru the drier and ended up in the expansion valve, and if the drier has reached it's capacity to absorb moisture, water + R134a=hydrochloric acid, which will start corroding the system from the inside. Prolonged vacuuming will remove moisture, but once the dessicant has absorbed it, it won't release it. I'd replace the drier, it's cheap insurance.
