AC compressor is leaking. Should I go R134a? (1 Viewer)

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Having the dealership repair what I thought was just a leaking hose in the AC system. They say the compressor is leaking too. Their quote for new R12 parts (including a compressor) comes to $1000.

1. Does this sound like a reasonable price?
2. If the compressor is toast, should I just go for a full R134a conversion?
 
I made the switch on my 62. It didn't -seem- as cold, but it worked great. If it saves you some coin over the R12, do it.
 
Dealer is quoting me $1200 plus tax for the conversion--which includes a compressor, drier, valves, etc. etc.

Feedback?
 
i hear you... I have been putting off getting my a/c for the winter. I just bought a new dryer and an expansion valve. I know i will need a compressor as it leaks when it runs. i will end up bitting the bullet in a few weeks, not looking forward to it.
 
Isn't there a kit available for the compressor ? I'd expect that over time a compressor would leak but that would likely be the gaskets and O rings that seal the compressor. It would have to be a major mistake for the body of the compressor to be damaged. Can't the gaskets and O rings simply be replaced ?


Kalawang
 
I have to take my in this week for a bad leak. This is great info guys. I have dreading getting a phone call with a $1000 plus quote from a shop. Now I can counter with info. Thanks. Where would you source such a kit, CDAN?
 
Hi,
FYI, we sell a new Denso (OE Toyota) compressor with clutch for $259, the drier is $22 and the expansion block is $43. An o-ring kit is $8, and if you want to convert it to R134a, you'll need some PAG 46 oil which is $12 for an 8oz bottle. I'm currently out of the compressor, but I do have it on order. These are special prices for mud members.
If you have any questions, my # is 1-888-438-9534
E-mail is rex@coolstreamac.com
website www.coolstreamac.com
Thanks,
Rex
 
Having the dealership repair what I thought was just a leaking hose in the AC system. They say the compressor is leaking too. Their quote for new R12 parts (including a compressor) comes to $1000.

1. Does this sound like a reasonable price?
2. If the compressor is toast, should I just go for a full R134a conversion?

Did the A/C gradually start getting warmer over time, losing freon? Or was it sudden?

My 91 has had a slow leak for the past 8 years...everytime it starts to lose it's cool (about 18 months) I add some freon(r12).
R12 is still sold over the counter here in houston. You just need to be certified to buy it. You can get certified online in about <1hr and for a small fee.
 
I sell ac parts. The 10PA17C compressor for $220, drier for $15, expansion valve for $15. O-rings at the local auto parts house might be $3.

You might just want to reseal the compressor you have though. The front seal is probably toast, I can get those parts too. As for the retro, buy 134 fittings for the high and low, drain the oil from the compressor, flush the lines, change the drier, replace the o-rings where you opened the system, vacuum the system and charge it up to 80% of the recommended capacity for R12. Seriously, my vent temps are about the same as they were.

I've also done it with out changing parts, it works fine either way, but that was on my car, not anyone else's.

Let me know if I can help,

Matt
 
are there any special tools required to service the compressor like replacing the seals?
 
Not anything that you should already have is required. Here is the list from the link above.

1. A strap wrench or a large pair of channel lock pliers,
2. A pair of snap-ring pliers,
3. A set of deep metric sockets, especially 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, and 13mm,
4. A 7/8” open-ended wrench,
5. A 6mm hex key or socket,
6. A phillips head screw driver, and
7. A flat blade screw driver (for gentle prying).

This is for the 10P15C compressor, which is nearly identical to the one on our Cruisers, both FJ and FZJ.
 
Hi,
You might want to consider getting these also. They make the job easier and less chance of ruining the new seal. The first pic is a seal installer/remover, the second is a shaft seal protector.
Good Luck!
Rex
seal remover.jpg
shaft protector.gif
 
I'd say look for owners who are parting their rigs and do the job yourself. It's not bad. It just takes time. I'd say if you have time, do it yourself because it's a good learning experience. For the r12. Look in ebay or craigslist. They are not as hard to find if you put some effort into it.
 
Hi,
FYI, we sell a new Denso (OE Toyota) compressor with clutch for $259, the drier is $22 and the expansion block is $43. An o-ring kit is $8, and if you want to convert it to R134a, you'll need some PAG 46 oil which is $12 for an 8oz bottle. I'm currently out of the compressor, but I do have it on order. These are special prices for mud members.
If you have any questions, my # is 1-888-438-9534
E-mail is rex@coolstreamac.com
website www.coolstreamac.com
Thanks,
Rex

I sell ac parts. The 10PA17C compressor for $220, drier for $15, expansion valve for $15. O-rings at the local auto parts house might be $3.

You might just want to reseal the compressor you have though. The front seal is probably toast, I can get those parts too. As for the retro, buy 134 fittings for the high and low, drain the oil from the compressor, flush the lines, change the drier, replace the o-rings where you opened the system, vacuum the system and charge it up to 80% of the recommended capacity for R12. Seriously, my vent temps are about the same as they were.

I've also done it with out changing parts, it works fine either way, but that was on my car, not anyone else's.

Let me know if I can help,

Matt

Hmmm. You guys are starting to make me think that resurrecting the AC in my beater may not be prohibitive after all:hmm:.
:cheers:
Butt
 
I have a used compressor from a 1994 for sale with 43K miles on it. PM me if interested.
 
? Is the pic of my compressor the type of signs of the seals failing? Your can see the green moist discolor, all 3 of the joints look like that (front you can see in the pic, middle just about 2' up from there, and one towards the back).

I've owned the truck for 4yrs, last summer tho I had to refill.
IMG_3323 (Small).JPG
 
Front and rear case seal and the manifold seal is all I can gather from the picture and your post. I forgot to point another arrow at the 2nd high side schrader valve. Since dye was introduced into your system, it will be a greenish black oily residue leading you to all your leaks, except for under the caps, they will be oily yellow/green.
Here.JPG
 
Front and rear case seal and the manifold seal is all I can gather from the picture and your post. I forgot to point another arrow at the 2nd high side schrader valve. Since dye was introduced into your system, it will be a greenish black oily residue leading you to all your leaks, except for under the caps, they will be oily yellow/green.


Thank you for the clarification :D
 

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