AC compressor and condenser: To DIY or not to DIY?

[HiFiGuy]

I just found out my compressor is locked up, and they will replace it for $900 with a 1 year warranty on parts, but the tech says it's likely the condenser that caused it to lock up, so he recommended getting both done. That is estimated at about $1800, IIRC, and includes a 2 year warranty on parts, along with a higher likelihood that it will be a long term fix, due to the lower possibility of having debris in the system, since the condenser and compressor will both be new, and the system will be "cleaner."

My plan was to sell the 200 anyway, so this is an unwelcome expense, but I don't want to pass potential issues to the new owner by cheaping out and getting only the compressor, so I am leaning towards doing both, but wondered aloud if I might be able to DIY, thus saving money while also doing the more thorough job that a future owner will hopefully appreciate. Any help or good advice is certainly welcomed!

 

[Birdddog]

I just had mine replaced for 2K, the condenser didnt scare me when I watched a video. the compressor I never looked at the extent of that part and by that time I didnt want to wait. but you can get both parts for under $400 plus the evacuate and charge so probably in the $600 range total.

 

[m3fan]

AC stuff is pretty easy. Vacuum pump and gauge set from HF and you're good to go. Probably need to replace the drier assembly too.

 

[MN CZ]

Any update on the work? I'm in same boat on a 2011. Compressor is locked up.

Trusted shop wants to replace lines back until debris free, to prevent debris from destroying new compressor. I'm having a hard time spending $4-15k to get a working AC.

 

[BadReligion]

I just found out my compressor is locked up, and they will replace it for $900 with a 1 year warranty on parts, but the tech says it's likely the condenser that caused it to lock up, so he recommended getting both done. That is estimated at about $1800, IIRC, and includes a 2 year warranty on parts, along with a higher likelihood that it will be a long term fix, due to the lower possibility of having debris in the system, since the condenser and compressor will both be new, and the system will be "cleaner."

My plan was to sell the 200 anyway, so this is an unwelcome expense, but I don't want to pass potential issues to the new owner by cheaping out and getting only the compressor, so I am leaning towards doing both, but wondered aloud if I might be able to DIY, thus saving money while also doing the more thorough job that a future owner will hopefully appreciate. Any help or good advice is certainly welcomed!

The only way the condenser caused the compressor to fail is if there was a big leak at the condenser. Did they pull the compressor? If not, you don't know if it simply seized (just replace compressor, but make sure you don't have any other leaks by running vacuum and then letting sit for 24hrs to see if there is any change), or actually "grenaded", which means metal debris in the whole system. That is a much bigger repair requiring replacing condenser and evaporator, with an extensive line flush. Even the rear system would have to be flushed to ensure its clean. Most AC leaks are at the evaporator.

AC stuff is pretty easy. Vacuum pump and gauge set from HF and you're good to go. Probably need to replace the drier assembly too.

I would strongly advise against a HF manifold gauge. If you are DIY'ing this and saving $1-2k, spend the extra $80 on a YellowJacket manifold gauge. I have seen plenty of instances where a faulty gauge makes you think you have a leak when you dont.

Any update on the work? I'm in same boat on a 2011. Compressor is locked up.

Trusted shop wants to replace lines back until debris free, to prevent debris from destroying new compressor. I'm having a hard time spending $4-15k to get a working AC.

No need to replace lines unless they are corroded and leaking. Simply flush until clean. But yes you do not want any debris in the lines because it will destroy the new compressor or clog the TXV in the evaporator.

 

[bloc]

I'm no professional but for a shadetree I've done a fair amount of AC work. I vastly prefer to add refrigerant by FSM-specified Mass these days instead of pressures. If you are good about your process (bucket of warm water to maintain cylinder pressure, towel to dry, scale in a location that minimizes the impact of the hose on accuracy) you'll find that you just install the required amount then when you verify with gauges, it's perfect.

The only caveat to this would be if you use an aftermarket part in the repair you can't be sure the volume stayed exactly the same, and that would impact refrigerant mass.