ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, & Brake lights remain on

[YellowJacket]

Sometimes I get lucky and the ACTIVE TRAC turns on instead and makes moving quite difficult. Seems to only do that part when it’s under 32 degrees though. They’re never on at the same time however. The ACTIVE TRAC and the others. It’s either one or the others. This is on my 2000 LC.

I was told that the Toyota scan tool can pull these codes, but I won’t be able to get down there until next week. My little Mac Tools scan tool doesn’t show anything since there’s no check engine light on.

Any ideas?

Also, any idea how bad it is to drive with these on or the ACTIVE TRAC coming on?

The active trac was coming on a bunch in moab the other weekend. I finally unplugged one of the many electrical plugs near the master cylinder and it hasn’t come on since. Of course the other regular light are still on.

 

[yuselneim]

Mine was doing this when the master cylinder went bad. Finally, it started continuous VSC beeping until I fixed it. However, after changing the system, it still gets all the lights when the car is stationary for too long, which leads me to believe this is an electrical issue outside the system. I'll let others chime in and see if I can fix my problem as well.

 

[RusoArmo]

it still gets all the lights when the car is stationary for too long

My 2000 does this as well. No issues breaking but when I'm at a red light for too long or stuck in traffic, they'll turn on. However if at a red light I put it into P, the lights don't turn on no matter how long I'm waiting

 

[dirtydirtysouth]

I had a similar problem. ABS, Active TRAC, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE all lit up. Active TRAC came on about 3 months after the other ones.

All attempts at pulling codes (Auto Zone, Toyota Dealership, etc.) all failed. No braking issues, steering issues or alarms. Only thing was ABS wouldn't kick in (tested on wet day in an empty parking lot). Dealership recommended to change the pump, motor, and actuator assembly at ~$5k+.

Lots of research:
dash lit up like a Christmas tree??
ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and Brake lights on

Ultimately, after consultation with my mechanic (since it wouldn't throw a code, this indicated the abs computer was on its way out) I purchased a used ABS Control Module 89540-60160 for ~$700. New one was $1600+ with no ability for return after purchased. The used one came with a couple months warranty and return within 14 days if it didn't solve the problem. Mechanic swapped modules, reprogrammed and the problem was fixed, lights off and ABS back working. I keep meaning to break open the bad module and see what the guts look like.

I searched high and low on ebay and used parts places/junk yards all over the country and they all have a price around $700+, most with returns for a restocking fee. Ended up with one off ebay, though they seem to be in short supply at the moment.

Used OEM Toyota Auto, Truck and Suv Parts Recycling
TLS Auto Recycling - OEM Used Auto Parts
Used Auto Parts | Used Car Parts | Salvage Yards Online

Good luck.

 

[Qtonic]

dirtysouth, I'm chasing a similar issue. Were your dash lights on always or did it come and go? How about ABS performance?

I'm curious if your abs computer was on the way out or already shot.

 

[dirtydirtysouth]

Dash lights came on one day and stayed on. ABS didn't work at all. You could tell the 4x4 power distribution was off too, as tight turns/full steering lock felt wrong - as if the diff was locked. I drove it for months like that, avoiding tight turns and hard braking in the rain. I really didn't want to throw a new module in and have that not solve the problem. Thus the buying a used ABS module with a return policy. Worst case I put it in, it didn't work and then I would return for shipping + restocking fee. Essentially a troubleshooting fee if it didn't work correctly. Fortunately it solve my issue.

I checked all the speed sensors and they looked good. My mechanic pointed to the inability to communicate with the ABS module as the reason for trying to swap modules.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I'm dealing with a similar issue. When I jump the Tc and E1 terminals on the DLC under the hood, I get ABS code 33, which is supposed to indicate a rear-right speed sensor malfunction. When I run an ohm test with a Greenlee multimeter the resistance is 1.222 M ohm. I think my next course of action is to check the sensor end to see if it's dirty...hopefully without breaking the sensor.

My symptoms are the ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, and PARKING BRAKE lights on, every once in a while.

Are you guys getting any codes while jumping Tc and E1?

 

[dirtydirtysouth]

If you get a code, troubleshoot in that direction. I was never able to get the control module to throw a code, thus the required replacement.

The speed sensor is a frequent culprit, and relatively easy and inexpensive fix.
ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and Brake lights on

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

If you get a code, troubleshoot in that direction. I was never able to get the control module to throw a code, thus the required replacement.

The speed sensor is a frequent culprit, and relatively easy and inexpensive fix.
ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and Brake lights on

Yeah, I'm hoping that it's just a dirty rear right sensor or ring. I'm going to try to gently pull it and clean it off. Otherwise I will replace the sensor. I'm surprised that it's so intermittent though. If the sensor was dead, I would expect the lights to always appear. Right now they show up on 1/4 starts approximately

 

[FJRyder]

FYI - I have posted a tutorial to potentially fix a bad ECU here: Fix for ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, & Brake lights remain on no CEL, or how to repair an ECU

Also you can try sending the bad ECU to moduleexperts.com or g7computers.com for around $250.

 

[charles barr]

Yeah, I'm hoping that it's just a dirty rear right sensor or ring. I'm going to try to gently pull it and clean it off. Otherwise I will replace the sensor. I'm surprised that it's so intermittent though. If the sensor was dead, I would expect the lights to always appear. Right now they show up on 1/4 starts approximately

I’m having the same issue coming and going randomly. Mine started after a installed adual battery system so I was thinking something electrical. Did you ever find a solid fix?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I’m having the same issue coming and going randomly. Mine started after a installed adual battery system so I was thinking something electrical. Did you ever find a solid fix?

I replaced the sensor with a new one. It fixed my issue.

 

[Mister Tom]

I had a similar problem. ABS, Active TRAC, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE all lit up. Active TRAC came on about 3 months after the other ones.

All attempts at pulling codes (Auto Zone, Toyota Dealership, etc.) all failed. No braking issues, steering issues or alarms. Only thing was ABS wouldn't kick in (tested on wet day in an empty parking lot). Dealership recommended to change the pump, motor, and actuator assembly at ~$5k+.

Lots of research:
dash lit up like a Christmas tree??
ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off, and Brake lights on

Ultimately, after consultation with my mechanic (since it wouldn't throw a code, this indicated the abs computer was on its way out) I purchased a used ABS Control Module 89540-60160 for ~$700. New one was $1600+ with no ability for return after purchased. The used one came with a couple months warranty and return within 14 days if it didn't solve the problem. Mechanic swapped modules, reprogrammed and the problem was fixed, lights off and ABS back working. I keep meaning to break open the bad module and see what the guts look like.

I searched high and low on ebay and used parts places/junk yards all over the country and they all have a price around $700+, most with returns for a restocking fee. Ended up with one off ebay, though they seem to be in short supply at the moment.

Used OEM Toyota Auto, Truck and Suv Parts Recycling
TLS Auto Recycling - OEM Used Auto Parts
Used Auto Parts | Used Car Parts | Salvage Yards Online

Good luck.

Have the same or similar issue with my son's 2000 Land Cruiser. Dash lights on ABS,VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE and ACTIVE TRAC. Tried to read codes but AUTEL meter would only say "not communicating with control unit". I'm guessing that it's the ECU. You said that Mechanic swapped modules, reprogrammed and the problem was fixed. DO you know what the "reprogramming" entailed? Found a "used" ECU for $500 with 30 day return but researching all possibilities before going that route.

 

[FJRyder]

Have the same or similar issue with my son's 2000 Land Cruiser. Dash lights on ABS,VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE and ACTIVE TRAC. Tried to read codes but AUTEL meter would only say "not communicating with control unit". I'm guessing that it's the ECU. You said that Mechanic swapped modules, reprogrammed and the problem was fixed. DO you know what the "reprogramming" entailed? Found a "used" ECU for $500 with 30 day return but researching all possibilities before going that route.

View attachment 2537283

This sounds like it is the ceramic resonator issues.

It can be fixed. Read this thread: Fix for ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, & Brake lights remain on no CEL, or how to repair an ECU

 

[dirtydirtysouth]

Have the same or similar issue with my son's 2000 Land Cruiser. Dash lights on ABS,VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, BRAKE and ACTIVE TRAC. Tried to read codes but AUTEL meter would only say "not communicating with control unit". I'm guessing that it's the ECU. You said that Mechanic swapped modules, reprogrammed and the problem was fixed. DO you know what the "reprogramming" entailed? Found a "used" ECU for $500 with 30 day return but researching all possibilities before going that route.

View attachment 2537283

I'm unclear on the 'reprogramming' and if it is required or not. Had one mechanic say yes, the other say no. @Ninja Cruiser100 may be able to advise if he had it replaced.

 

[FJRyder]

I'm unclear on the 'reprogramming' and if it is required or not. Had one mechanic say yes, the other say no. @Ninja Cruiser100 may be able to advise if he had it replaced.

No reprogramming is needed for the same part number/ECU. You should do a zero point calibration which you can do yourself. Its straightforward.

 

[Mister Tom]

No reprogramming is needed for the same part number/ECU. You should do a zero point calibration which you can do yourself. Its straightforward.

Where might I find information on how to do the "zero point calibration"? I just bought a "used" ECU, same part number as mine 89540-60160, so don't want to mess it up.

 

[FJRyder]

G

Where might I find information on how to do the "zero point calibration"? I just bought a "used" ECU, same part number as mine 89540-60160, so don't want to mess it up.

GTS.

Either Google it with 'toyota' or search these forums including 'ZPC'.

Sorry but currently on the road and only have a phone with me.

This was the first thing that came up:

 

[Mister Tom]

G

GTS.

Either Google it with 'toyota' or search these forums including 'ZPC'.

Sorry but currently on the road and only have a phone with me.

This was the first thing that came up:

Thank you. Points me in the right direction.

 

[Josh N]

Yeah, I'm hoping that it's just a dirty rear right sensor or ring. I'm going to try to gently pull it and clean it off. Otherwise I will replace the sensor. I'm surprised that it's so intermittent though. If the sensor was dead, I would expect the lights to always appear. Right now they show up on 1/4 starts approximately

Basically what mine did, up until it decided to be a permanent problem prior to the fix. Except it only happened when my wife drove, so it took me forever to experience it. Broken wheel sensor.