ABS System delete (1 Viewer)

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Yet another way to delete your complete ABS System. This is not an endorsement, how to, or a suggestion on what you should do. Be aware modification of your braking system could result in system failure, injury, and death.

What I did and why

• Since going part time 4WD several years ago I have not had ABS.
• I want to improve my braking to be the best it could possiblybe.
• I wanted minimize the system to be more reliable and simple.
• By removing the brake line from the frame to the axle on the passenger's side I get much better access for disconnecting my SwayBar.
• Remove all unneeded brake lines. About ~20' total :wtf:
• Remove main ABS unit under the hood and gain space
• LSPV was secured in full on mode again for years. I wanted to remove the unit to eliminate a possible failure point.
• ABS Sensor were no longer needed removed and install DIY blank off front & rear.
• Wanted super clean look under the hood so I cut, flared, bent to fit main line.

Some of the parts I removed.

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I sourced parts from a non ABS 80 series to make this happen. The non ABS 80 only has one drop in the center and I liked the simplicity and the gained access to the swaybar disconnect. The drop to the front axle is now only in the center and tees at the axle and goes to the wheel. Three way fitting and lines are from a non ABS 80 series. The factory Toyota 3-way is no longer available new.

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For the rear I removed the LSPV and installed a factory 90° and supported it.

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The ABS unit and its piping takes up a lot of room its nice to have the new found space.

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►►►to be continued on the next page
 
Part II - ABS System delete

The needed work at the MC was simple for the rear. Remove the line from the bottom of the tee under the MC and then I plugged with a DIY plug I made.

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By setting the front axle like a non ABS set up made the MC line work simple. I needed to cut, flare, and bent one existing line to fit. In the end I have a super clean set up at the MC with somewhat of an OEM look.

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With the sensors removed you end up with holes to blank off. I took the simple cost-effective approach. For the rear I made a blank off plates out of aluminum.

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The front ABS sensor blank off was stolen from the Aussie's. Quick, simple, cheap, clean, and effective.

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Nice work Phil but I’m thinking you will want a proportioning valve. I adjusted my Wilwood manual valve 50% of the way from lowest power setting to highest and was locking up my rears on dry pavement pretty easily. It’s now turned in only 1.5 turns of the adjustment knob.
 
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Nice work Phil but I’m thinking you will want a proportioning valve. I adjust my Wilwood manual valve 50% of the way from lowest to power setting to highest and was locking up my rears on dry pavement pretty easily. It’s now turned in only 1.5 turns of the adjustment knob.

I have been running full open f&R for several years.
 
LCP, have you thought about offering an abs delete kit with the plugs/lines/tees? I’m about to do a brake overhaul and I’m really trying to figure out if I want to keep my ABS/Proportioning Valve.
 
LCP, have you thought about offering an abs delete kit with the plugs/lines/tees? I’m about to do a brake overhaul and I’m really trying to figure out if I want to keep my ABS/Proportioning Valve.

Not going to see it from us. Too much going on
 
I have been running full open f&R for several years.
Your zip tied LSPV must be doing some biasing still then because I was surprised at how easily my rear would skid.
 
Your zip tied LSPV must be doing some biasing still then because I was surprised at how easily my rear would skid.
No zip tie
On my last brake change I noted 90% wear on the rear and 50% on the front. So yes I'm rear heavy and given my set up I'm 100% comfortable with that. If anything changes it can very easily be added under the MC in place of an existing coupling.
 
No zip tie
On my last brake change I noted 90% wear on the rear and 50% on the front. So yes I'm rear heavy and given my set up I'm 100% comfortable with that. If anything changes it can very easily be added under the MC in place of an existing coupling.
In that case, I’m surprised that you have not warped the rear rotors. Less mass tolerates less heat.
 
7
In that case, I’m surprised that you have not warped the rear rotors. Less mass tolerates less heat.

Not sure but my brakes are fine as I have never complained about my 80 braking
Current brake wear as brakes were done 7k ago.
Prior the rear was 90% worn after 17K

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After some test miles stopping distance is not noticeable but it was good prior. What did improve very noticeable was pedal feedback and sensitivity. The touch is much lighter and seems to more responsive, a nice change.



New canister lines (factory no longer available)
New front rubber brake lines to finish out the ABS delete mod.

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After some test miles stopping distance is not noticeable but it was good prior. What did improve very noticeable was pedal feedback and sensitivity. The touch is much lighter and seems to more responsive, a nice change.



New canister lines (factory no longer available)
New front rubber brake lines to finish out the ABS delete mod.

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What are you gonna do with all that room? A/W intercooler....?
 

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