A442F Transmission Part Identification (1 Viewer)

[Corky1936]

Hey all,
I'm rebuilding the transmission for my daughters 1994 80 series. Doing it myself since nobody in Sacramento will do it. When I was removing the valve body I had the transmission on its side instead of inverted, which I probably should have had it - Page AT-18 Step 14 in the repair manual. Unfortunately, a small piece fell out and I don't know where it came from. It almost looks like it's broken at the stem, but I can't tell. Does anyone recognize this part?

 

[baldilocks]

I agree that stem is broken. We’re there issues with the trans that prompted the rebuild? That could be it. I think you would know that you did something that took a good deal of force to brake that stem so I figure it was already broken.

Could it be a part of a linkage to the VB?

 

[Corky1936]

No direct issues with the transmission. I'm doing an engine rebuild as this is a new to us rig. Figured, since I had it all out I might as well rebuild the transmission. Unfortunately this little guy fell out and of course, I didn't see where he lived.

 

[Malleus]

That can only be a valve spool, there's nothing in the case that looks remotely like that. Having said that, it doesn't look like a spool, either. Are you sure it came out of the case?

FWIW, you DO NOT want to split the valve body the same way you opened the case. You'll loose all the check balls. The manual says to invert the valve body and then split it. Don't; the check balls will then be in the upper half, and you'll lose them. Make sure you photograph the check balls so that you can get the right size in the right holes.

I recently went through this on my son's 2000 LX470. Feel free to PM me if you have questions.

 

[Corky1936]

That can only be a valve spool, there's nothing in the case that looks remotely like that. Having said that, it doesn't look like a spool, either. Are you sure it came out of the case?

FWIW, you DO NOT want to split the valve body the same way you opened the case. You'll loose all the check balls. The manual says to invert the valve body and then split it. Don't; the check balls will then be in the upper half, and you'll lose them. Make sure you photograph the check balls so that you can get the right size in the right holes.

I recently went through this on my son's 2000 LX470. Feel free to PM me if you have questions.

Thanks for the info. I'm hoping to not do more than I have to. My main thought was to replace the gaskets and clutches/discs. Hopefully this doesn't become a bigger issue. I'm not 100 percent sure it came out of the case. I heard a noise and saw this on the garage floor, but for the life of me I can't see anywhere it came from. I have the A442f manual and figured I'd find the spot it went during the teardown process.

 

[Malleus]

If you follow the manual you'll be in good shape. Make sure you don't try to use a hydraulic press to release the spring retainers holding the clutch packs in place. They look solid, but they are flimsy as anything.

Also, put a rag over them and put your hand on that when removing the snap rings, once you get the spring retainer compressed. I had one fly across the shop, ten feet across the shop, and perch itself on top of my bench vise. You will also need to get a new sleeve for the shift rod. The manual says to reuse it, immediately after it tells you to cut it off with a chisel. It is not in the overhaul kit.

 

[Malleus]

I also replaced the spring pin 90254-04012.

You have to remove the "spacer" to remove the shaft, so that you can then replace the two seals.

 

[Malleus]

What are you planning to use to compress the spring retainers?

 

[Corky1936]

What are you planning to use to compress the spring retainers?

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure yet. I'll look at that section of the repair manual. I found the transmission specialty tool kit online, but haven't purchased it yet. I was going to wait until I got to those parts to see if I had something that would work to pull those parts out.
Do you have a suggestion on compressing the spring retainers?
Thanks

 

[Malleus]

You can use a homemade spring compressor, but I opted to get the real thing:

BTW, this is a good price. There's also a floor mounted model:

You can use these two versions to make your own, if you're game.

Anything along these lines will work:

The key is that you want the half mon fingers to be as long as possible. This one might work, it'll just be a major PITA to fiddle with.

Whatever you do, don't get this:

the half moon fingers are too short and you'll distort the spring retainer sheetmetal cage.

A google search for "transmission spring retainer compressor" will give you all the wrong tools to use

 

[Malleus]

You can also stand the case up on a pair of plastic milk crates, upside down. You'll need to cut a 2.5" hole in the bottom of the uppermost crate, for the output shaft. I also opted for the "real" thing (you'll need a stout bench vice, too):

it's the cheap version of the real thing:

If I was going to do this regularly, I'd dump mine and buy the OTC version. You'll need to grind a small portion of the inner arm faces in order to clear the pump OD - you do not want to scratch that!

DO NOT buy one of these:

the case is seriously heavy when built and you do not want to gravity check it.

 

[Malleus]

Those are the only Those are the only transmission specific tools you "need". Nice to have is one of these:

you'll need it to remove the first and reverse piston from the rear of the case. This is an example only; the bar needs to fit inside the case and straddle the piston sleeve. I made do with scraps I had lying around. They worked just fine.

You will also need a 12"-14" screwdriver (standard blade) and internal snap ring pliers, the long kind - like 8" plus. There are transmission specific pliers, which are good to use if you can find them, and they aren't too pricey. You'll need these to remove the overdrive drum retainer and the clutch drum retainer. You'll wind up using several 1/4" screwdrivers (get ones at least 8" long) to remove the snap rings once you get them unhooked. You'll also need a standard internal/external snap ring plier set to remove the snap rings from the clutch disc spring retainers. Toyota has a set (a pair, actually) in the transmission tool set that are ideal, but you can make do without them, and you'll never use them for anything else.

The manual says you have to use a puller to remove the pump, grabbing onto the nonexistent groove in the input shaft. You don't. You can use the two tapped holes in the pump face for jackscrews.

The overdrive clutch drum comes out the same way. Toyota has a special puller for that, but you don't need it either. Use the same two jackscrews you remove the pump with and a two jaw puller under the heads. It helps greatly if the bolts are flange heads

 

[Malleus]

One special tool I used, which isn't in any manual, is a cheap electric (DC) fuel pump. Once the transmission is out, connect two clear plastic tubes to the cooler lines, run one into a quart catch can and the other into a quart of kerosene. That'll flush the cooler lines, bottom radiator tank and fin and tube cooler. You don't want to go to all the trouble to rebuild you transmission and leave that dirty fluid in the cooler circuit.

I don't know if this is a tool per se, but if you cut a gallon orange juice container (or anything of the rectangular jug shape) from top to bottom, leaving the handle, and lay it on its side, it make a great rinse tub. You'll need this to soak the clutches in before you install them. I also used the pan, with about two quarts of kerosene, as a parts wash tub. It cleaned the parts, and itself in the process. You'll use about a gallon of kerosene for cleaning (it's the only thing that will dissolve ATF).

Also, a restaurant 6-8 oz squeeze bottle is handy for coating parts with ATF during assembly. Oh, and don't spend money on assembly lube; Vaseline is the trick (it's also listed in the manual as assembly goop).

 

[Malleus]

Lastly, I don't know if you planned to replace the torque converter, but you should. It can't be cleaned properly and even if it passes the (very limited) function test, it's as old as the transmission. I got mine from Florida Torque Converters. Hopefully they weren't washed away by Milton (they're in Tampa).

 

[Corky1936]

Lastly, I don't know if you planned to replace the torque converter, but you should. It can't be cleaned properly and even if it passes the (very limited) function test, it's as old as the transmission. I got mine from Florida Torque Converters. Hopefully they weren't washed away by Milton (they're in Tampa).

Thank you for all the great detailed information. I'm working on it after work and weekends. Depending on how this one goes, I do have a second 1994 cruiser that my son and I will probably do next spring/summer. I do think his transmission slips a bit.

 

[Malleus]

You are most welcome; I hope it helps. Again, please don't hesitate to PM me if you have any immediate needs questions.

The overhaul (not gasket) kit has everything you'll need except for the sleeve and pin I mentioned...unless your steels are out of limits. You won't know until you get into the section in question. I wouldn't expect the brake band to need to be replaced.

I have a spreadsheet that I used to keep everything straight while I was disassembling/reassembling. Let me know if you want a copy, to use as a guide. You'll have to change part numbers and dimensions, but if you're rebuilding more than one, I think it's a handy aid. It follows both the electronic parts catalog and the service manual.

As soon as I get it polished, I'm going to post a copy for general use. I don't want to do that until then, because I'll be fielding questions about it until I expire.

 

[Rollinns]

The specialty A442F tool kit I found from Toyota was $980 a few years ago so I took a bunch of measurements with my calipers and created my own kit to compress the clutch packs, find my post here on mud, download the files and have someone cut out the parts for you. Much cheaper than the official Toyota kit and it was designed specifically for the A442F. Mine were laser cut and I went through a iterations before it worked like I wanted, I released the final version on that post., I'll add the link later if I get the chance.

 

[Corky1936]

The specialty A442F tool kit I found from Toyota was $980 a few years ago so I took a bunch of measurements with my calipers and created my own kit to compress the clutch packs, find my post here on mud, download the files and have someone cut out the parts for you. Much cheaper than the official Toyota kit and it was designed specifically for the A442F. Mine were laser cut and I went through a iterations before it worked like I wanted, I released the final version on that post., I'll add the link later if I get the chance.

I think I found those. My daughter is in highschool engineering and has access to a full cnc and laser cutting. Maybe I'll give the files to her for cutting. Do you have a link to yours in case I don't have them?
Thanks