Builds A Washington Troopy Build

[John Young]

It looks good to me, but I'd have to repeat that absent conclusive information on the belt, that it ought to be replaced soonest. There may be a date code on the belt itself, and if it is several years old that is another reason to replace it.

Just my 2 cents....

 

[Sundowner]

I'm not a big fan of the Flatlink, but I do like the elimination of both the hook and the wire rope. Which synthetic rope did you go with?

 

[jaco11b]

I'm not a big fan of the Flatlink, but I do like the elimination of both the hook and the wire rope. Which synthetic rope did you go with?

Any reason you’re not a fan of the Flatlink? I had one on my Tacoma that worked great, and currently have the Ultrahook on the PowerWagon that has worked well too.

The rope is some amazon special that I’ll keep down the road as an extension. This winch makes some bad sounds every now and then on retrieval so I’ll end up placing the winch if I take it to Baja.

 

[Sundowner]

Any reason you’re not a fan of the Flatlink?

A few, but the only one that matters is this: I prefer to have the fewest possible connections/failure points in my recovery setup...and the Flatlink prevents me from doing that. Rather, the Flatlink works as a thimble and thereby encourages the correct usage of a shackle for any connection that's made to it...but it also requires a thimble within an eye splice in order to be connected to the winch rope. That secondary thimble is unnecessary; if you just use a standard safety thimble on the end of the winch rope, you can rig as needed without having introduced an additional failure point.

 

[jaco11b]

OEM mirrors added. They are taller and certainly have a wider field of view than the aftermarket ones taken off.

 

[likethewheel]

OEM mirrors added. They are taller and certainly have a wider field of view than the aftermarket ones taken off.

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The mirrors you replaced aren't aftermarket I don't believe, they're just older style OEM mirrors. My '93 came with those same mirrors and like yourself I replaced with those same newer, larger ones. Huge improvement.

 

[jaco11b]

Bringing some life to this thread! The Troopy has been sitting for the better part of 8 months due to low compression and being hard to start, so I started getting a plan together for a rebuild. Step 1 of getting the motor out is done, and we’ll start tearing it down this weekend to see what we find before it goes to the machine shop.

 

[jaco11b]

Got the block completely stripped and the head removed. Bottom end bearings and crank looked great. Each piston had multiple cracks near the ring seats. Each pre chamber had cracks as well. No visible cracks in the head but we’ll see what the machine shop says!

Dropped all the parts off to the machine shop Monday, and by the end of the day we decided to go .5mm over on the pistons and rings. Ordered a mess of parts from Engines Australia and they’re scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Quick turnaround!

 

[jaco11b]

Everything picked up from the machine shop. Need to do a deep cleaning and paint the block and head, then will start reassembly!

 

[LJRay]

…so.many.holes…

 

[FJBen]

Maybe too late but personally I wouldn’t use engines Australia gaskets again. I would only use Toyota gaskets.
I rebuilt my 13bt using their kit and just about every gasket leaked/failed. I used OEM mls head gasket.

Failed gaskets:
Intake
Exhaust
Oil cooler
Timing case - didn’t fit NLA
Thermostat to block
Oil pain weeping/leak

 

[jaco11b]

Maybe too late but personally I wouldn’t use engines Australia gaskets again. I would only use Toyota gaskets.
I rebuilt my 13bt using their kit and just about every gasket leaked/failed. I used OEM mls head gasket.

Failed gaskets:
Intake
Exhaust
Oil cooler
Timing case - didn’t fit NLA
Thermostat to block
Oil pain weeping/leak

Oh boy that’s not fun. Will for sure be using just some rtv for the oil pan. Might look into getting an oem head gasket once piston extrusion is measured, and maybe some of the other harder to access ones!

 

[jaco11b]

Block and bearing cap primed and painted. Need to do a deep clean of the block next.

 

[jaco11b]

Pics didn’t attach last post for some reason

 

[jaco11b]

Motor is assembled and ready to go back in. A couple parts I wish I would have ordered ahead of time for aesthetics but nothing too difficult to swap down the road. Will be addressing getting the injection pump rebuilt when I decide whether or not we’re going the turbo route. This thing might have enough horsepower with full compression, we’ll see.

 

[FJBen]

I decide whether or not we’re going the turbo route. This thing might have enough horsepower with full compression, we’ll see.

 

[jaco11b]

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yeah thinking the same thing. Compression was under 300 across the board so curious to see what she’s like now.

 

[Guyute]

Motor is assembled and ready to go back in. A couple parts I wish I would have ordered ahead of time for aesthetics but nothing too difficult to swap down the road. Will be addressing getting the injection pump rebuilt when I decide whether or not we’re going the turbo route. This thing might have enough horsepower with full compression, we’ll see.

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Replace that 13407-17010.

How I know >> What did you do on your 70 series today? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-did-you-do-on-your-70-series-today.804784/post-15587295

 

[FJBen]

yeah thinking the same thing. Compression was under 300 across the board so curious to see what she’s like now.

I’m only 1/2 or 3/4 serious. I would start without a turbo to get a baseline and break in going and dialed in.

Then decide if you want to go the turbo route and all its pros/cons.

I can’t imagine my BJ74 without a turbo…

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I’m only 1/2 or 3/4 serious. I would start without a turbo to get a baseline and break in going and dialed in.

Then decide if you want to go the turbo route and all its pros/cons.

I can’t imagine my BJ74 without a turbo…

Intercool if you turbo. Would not recommend otherwise.