A tough crank no start problem finally sorted

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Hope this post may help someone else figure things out a little quicker than it took me. I went out to start my 2000 LC one morning and it cranked strong but wouldn't ever try to fire. After finding no codes with my OBD II scanner and checking all the items mentioned in other threads, the only clue I had was no spark. Figuring it was some unusual electrical issue, I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis. They were able to get a malfunction in the crank position sensor circuit P0335 out of their higher end diagnostic equipment. The technician diagnosed it as a pinched wiring harness (behind the coolant tube on the front of the motor) and quoted $2,030 for a complete new engine wiring harness. I had replaced the TB and WP about a 6 weeks prior and thought the diagnosis was plausible, but figured I could fix a pinched wiring harness instead of a complete replacement. After having it towed back to the house, I disconnected the crank position sensor and oil pressure sensor and to my amazement the harness slid out with no pinching visible. After removing the protective cover from the harness and finding no damaged wires in the harness I was puzzled. After some head scratching I finally checked the resistance on the crank position sensor and got no reading. I replaced the crank position sensor with an AutoZone one for $100 and bingo that was the culprit. I have not heard of a crank position sensor going out on a LC, but it happen to me and it can be challenging to diagnose when there is no code for it being output for a typical OBD-II scanner to pick up. The dealership service manager was a stand up guy and admitted his technician had blown the diagnosis and completely refunded their diagnostic and tear down fees. I was just out the towing, crank position sensor and had to buy a new battery, which was mysteriously dead when it came back. Not sure what caused the crank position sensor to go out in the first place, but theorize it could have been related either to some coolant dripping on it from a leaking water pump that was recently replaced or some water ingress from crossing some flooded streets about two weeks prior. It is very easy to access and remove the crank position sensor from the bottom front of the motor with the skid plate removed.
 
I am glad you did not have them replace the wiring harness - it would sucked to spend $2K and the problem persist.

I have learned that when having a shop replace parts - 1. Always ask them to point to the parts that are bad. 2. Do not throw away my old part so I can examine it later. Yes, I want all of them back - it is mine! Hopefully step 1 and 2 make the shop know that I am paying attention and watching to make sure they replace the correct parts for the correct reason.
 
Thanks, Just found my wiring incorrect and rubbed on the water pump/fan pulley Do you remember to correct wiring route from top of engine to crank / oil sensor plugs.

Thanks Vince
 
Can you describe your symptoms leading up to the no start?
Did it turn over fine and not start? And then start when you tried again?
 
Found a pic. Between engine AC compressor.


This has aroused my curiosity.
Like to see a picture where the Crank Position Sensor is located.
 
Can you describe your symptoms leading up to the no start?
Did it turn over fine and not start? And then start when you tried again?
Pretty much. Also would intermittently cut out on highway. Finally just would start.
 
I've been having a similar issue. Crank, not start, try again and start right up. It throws a code P0340, cam position sensor circuit. It has cleared every time but once but later that day at a point on a trail where I was definitely going to need Atrac I attempted the clear again with the Scan Gage and luckily it cleared. It has not cropped up again since I've been home from my trip, over a week now. It ran perfectly though, even when the code would not clear, so I wasn't that worried about it, go figure.....there's something going on intermittantly there, though. I'll get to it eventually!
 

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