A Rookie’s Warn 8274 Rebuild (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Threads
82
Messages
1,892
Location
Tega Cay, SC
Let me open by saying that in retrospect, I was over confident after seeing the manyl rebuild threads out there that I would be able to tackle this project. I could not have done it without the help of several new friends: Cirbo, diggity, flintknapper, awl-TEQ, and Danny at Clemson4Wheel. Thanks to each of them for putting up with and answering my many questions.




Below are several links I found helpful and I thought it would be good for others attempting a rebuild to have them all in one place.
Need to replace your cable/wire rope? Call your local rigging supplier before ordering one on ebay or elsewhere online. I went to Ashley Sling in Charlotte and paid just $55 for 150’ of 5/16 galvanized cable with pressed thimble and flemish eye and clevis hook with latch.
 
1st bit of wisdom – Be choosy and find a good specimen if you don’t already own one. Don’t buy one without doing your homework, looking it over in person, seeing it in action and figuring what it will cost you to get it operation if it isn’t already.

I made the mistake of thinking I’d found one at a great price withoout really knowing and pricing what it needed. While I wasn't as selective as I should have been, in the end, I still got it running and have what I think is a great winch. I still kick myself at the ones I saw on Craigslist weeks later for $75-$125 more that were in much better condition.

Below are the pics the seller sent me. Given my distance from the seller, I had a friend pay the seller and bring it (and the mounting plate) to a ONSC meeting for me. After seeing it in person I realized how the photos didn't reveal its true condition.
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Below are a couple collages of pictures taken before and during the disassembly process to give you an idea of what I started with. While the exploded parts diagram is great to reference, I found taking pictures a real help, especially when I had to go to flintknapper, awl_TEQ and diggity for help.
First photos.jpg
Disassembly.jpg
 
Once it was fully disassembled (thank you PB Blaster!), I took it Cirbo's to clean the parts and blast the housing the media blaster. What a difference! Here are a few things another rookie will want to know:
  • Put all the cleaned gears in a Ziplock bag and coat them with the oil you'll be using to keep them from rusting.
  • Be sure to remove the armature bearing before using a parts cleaner unless you already plan on replacing it.
  • Use duct tape to seal protect the housing from getting full of media. Don't forget to mask the small holes for the screws that mount the motor.

I made several trips to my local Northern Tool, Lowe's, Home Depot and Advance Auto Parts for supplies (including a new plug for the remote and solenoid cover) and ordered the replacement parts and service kits (Lower Housing Service Kit and Brake Service Kit) from Danny at Clemson4Wheel.

Unlike flintknaper and others, being a rookie, I didn't add the oil fill and drain. I'm unlikely to use this with any great frequency and couldn't do it myself anyway.

Next I got my hands on a lot of cardboard, prepped the housing and motor for paint. The spray handle that you attach to spray paint cans is a great invention. Unlike me, be sure to mask off the area where the brake pawl is attached. I used a Dremel to remove the paint so it wouldn't breakdown after adding grease to he brake pawl.
Parts an Paint.jpg
Painted up.jpg
 
Before reassembling and mounting, I made the decision to wire wheel and POR-15 the chassis. Thanks to all the guys that have posted advice on this on MUD. It took a ton of time but looks great.

I won't lie, reassembly was a test of my patience. I was in my garage until the wee hours of the morning trying to get the brake back together and functioning properly, mostly having trouble with the bearings and clamping it tight enough to get the new clips on.

Here is a trick my friend Tom helped me with. We used a short length of pipe to push back the brushes so as to get the motor housing back over the motor without damaging them. It's no "flintknapper method" ingenuity, but worth passing along.
Reassembly.jpg
 
As it turned out when we bench tested it, it only spooled in one direction. My buddy Tom (a former 40 owner and utility lineman) took the solenoids home with him, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, rewired and returned them in good working order.

When Cirbo and I were about to mount the refurbished mounting plate in preparation for installing the winch, I realized just how much of the radiator airflow would be blocked and decided to go another route.

After scouring mud and Google for photos of 8274's mounted to 40's I decided I wanted the look of a HFS bumper, but already knew I didn't have the cash. Thankfully diggity had a prototype lying around that I was able to purchase for a reasonable price and another ONSC member brought it to me at our spring URE ride with Upstate Cruisers.

After drilling the necessary holes, welding on the clevis mounts, enlarging the hole with the plasma cutter (okay, I didn't do any of this but was Cirbo's helper throughout) I used a grinder to get her ready for paint.

After etching, priming and painting pewter with paint from JT Outfitters, I had my bumper.
bumper.jpg
 
Last weekend I mounted the winch, tested it out and spooled the cable (no wisecracks from the peanut gallery on my spooling job).

It works and looks great and I hope to put it to good use soon!

Thanks again to everyone who helped during the lengthy rebuild process. I've owned my 40 just over a year now, have wheeled it just twice at URE and am really enjoying and benefiting from being a part of the ih8mud community.

Below are some before and after shots for your viewing pleasure.
Before and after 1.jpg
Before and after 2.jpg
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Great job!
 
Well done! A very nice rebuild. 8274's are such a great fit for the 40's. They have the same rugged look about them.
 
These threads are excellent, a great source. I'll get around torebuilding mine one day.....:rolleyes:
 

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