A real steering upgrade: Y-link & 1-ton TREs

[Stevesnj]

I drilled out a spare pitman I got from here and here is the result with and without the insert. If need be I can possibly strengthen around the outside of the pitman arm with some welds?!?

Well it is a concern for me and here is why....

GM tree at its thickest

Now the insert

and how much has to be removed to fit the insert

I think i will stick with just reaming the hole out. And not hard to get the right depth, just mark the reamer.

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

I drilled out a spare pitman I got from here and here is the result with and without the insert. If need be I can possibly strengthen around the outside of the pitman arm with some welds?!?


View attachment 1019730 View attachment 1019731 View attachment 1019732 View attachment 1019733

That's a bigger insert/hole than the ones that go on the steering arm. Pitman arm insert requires a 1" hole, steering arms requires a 7/8" hole. Ruff Stuff doesn't recommend using an insert on the pitman arm because so much material is removed - that's why they didn't advertise that insert on their website for the longest time.

 

[Stevesnj]

That's a bigger insert/hole than the ones that go on the steering arm. Pitman arm insert requires a 1" hole, steering arms requires a 7/8" hole. Ruff Stuff doesn't recommend using an insert on the pitman arm because so much material is removed - that's why they didn't advertise that insert on their website for the longest time.

I was thinking the same thing but 7/8" seems better than 1" hole. The reemer does reem to 7/8" on the bottom part and of course more narrow at the stud end. I emailed RuffStuff with the pics to see what they say...thanks!

 

[jcardona1]

I was thinking the same thing but 7/8" seems better than 1" hole. The reemer does reem to 7/8" on the bottom part and of course more narrow at the stud end. I emailed RuffStuff with the pics to see what they say...thanks!

Keep in mind: in the y-link setup with 1-ton TREs you're dealing with 2 different TREs with 2 different tapers. The TRE for the pitman arm is a high angle TRE which requires a .795" taper or a 1" insert hole. The steering arm TREs require a .749" taper or a 7/8" insert hole. They're not all the same.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREDRAG.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND.html

 

[nukegoat]

FWIW, I wouldn't "add some welds" around the Pitman arm. You could gusset it a little bit but I doubt it's necessary since the sector shaft is still likely to go before the pitman arm will.

 

[Stevesnj]

I'm just doing a direct replacement not a 4 link...sorry I didn't mention that.

 

[Stevesnj]

Got this e-mail back from RuffStuff (they are fast with returning emails)

Hi Steve,

The amount of material you have is more than enough. Let us know if you have any further questions.

Sincerely,

Ruffstuff Tech Team

RUFFSTUFF SPECIALTIES TEAM

916-600-1945

 

[AMMO]

Got this e-mail back from RuffStuff (they are fast with returning emails)

Super great guys, RS is the next town over from me. I'm in there more than I'd like to admit.

I'd have to agree, more then enough room on the pitman for pine barren wheeling

I'd be more scared of the jersey devil.

Cheers.

-A

 

[Stevesnj]

I'd be more scared of the jersey devil.

The Jersey Devil is this thing...

 

[mikedamageinc]

Hey guys, I've been looking at this thread for a while and I'm ready to pull the trigger since my stock pieces have welded themselves together and I have a couple questions:

-Does "twisting" the tre's (one forward, one rear) to eliminate the rod roll cause any extra strain or bind on the steering?

-Does anyone have a link to the reamer they bought?

-Any plans to mount a camera or lights to the unused rear arm?

Thanks in advance and thanks Jose for pioneering this as well as everyone else that has done it too.

 

[Phildoh]

Agreed about the welds, they'll make it more brittle, and with the lack of material already concerning, I'd pass on that idea.

 

[jcardona1]

-Does "twisting" the tre's (one forward, one rear) to eliminate the rod roll cause any extra strain or bind on the steering?

Just thinking out loud here...You could lock the TREs in position by twisting them opposite to each other but I'm really not sure that's a good idea on a Y/T link steering setup. I think the tierod needs to roll in these steering configurations. If you have a chance to see this steering setup in person and have somebody turn the wheel back and forth, it becomes clear why the tierod needs to roll as the steering cycles. Locking the TREs together would cause some pretty serious binding I think. But a quick phone call to the guys at RuffStuff should clarify this with certainty.

 

[mikedamageinc]

Thanks Jose, that's what I was thinking but I wanted to get by a little cheaper. Looks like the crossover setup is the way to go. I saw on Slee's site they said the high steer is not for street rigs, is that a general disclaimer and does it apply to the hybrid setup of the Ruff Stuff and Slee high arm?

 

[jcardona1]

Thanks Jose, that's what I was thinking but I wanted to get by a little cheaper. Looks like the crossover setup is the way to go. I saw on Slee's site they said the high steer is not for street rigs, is that a general disclaimer and does it apply to the hybrid setup of the Ruff Stuff and Slee high arm?

I'm sure it's just a liability disclaimer. But with that said, what's your setup? Are you merely just swapping out steering links? You can't run hi-steer on a stock 80 because of the panhard bracket. You'd need to relocate the axle-side panhard mount to the top of the axle and shorten the panhard. The applies to Slee hi-steer arms and Hellfire knuckles.

 

[mikedamageinc]

Oh okay, steering is all stock now but the tre's are probably original and rusted to the bars so replacement is a given plus I need to rotate the axle for more caster and the bar is close so I figured i'd upgrade. I also have been thinking about trying to get the panhard a little more level anyway so that's cool. Is there a premade bracket or just fab? Also can't the offset tre's clear the panhard?

 

[Bax454]

I also just pulled the trigger on the Y-Link from RS. However, I modified what the kit comes with and added 3 TRE inserts, which I am not going to use. I exchanged the Drag link TRE for a regular Y-Link TRE (with opposite threads) to mount the stabilizer to. I should have been under the 80 as I ordered; I messed up the pitman arm TRE placement. I told him (Ron (That guy is awesome)) it was Over knuckle versus under knuckle (or which ever way it was not). So, I may have a bit of an issue with the stabilizer mount, but the Y-link TREs are casted with the taper for 1-ton, which is not what our 80's have on the stabilizer rod end anyways. So the taper is the wrong way, but allows for a smaller hole on the stabilizer side.. More duct-tape I 'pose.

ISSUE:
I did not understand, my own fault, the Panhard frame mount clearance issue. With corrected caster (Ironman castor plates for the most correction) I will be right on the mount with the Tie Rod. I can get it installed, but I see a major issue with suspension movement. I'll upload some pictures later to show others.

Not sure what I am going to do, I may have to hack off the Panhard mount and move it and replace the Panhard bar itself. I have a run on the 30th which I may not be able to make.

 

[Bax454]

A note to add: By exchanging the DTRE for a regular (but Y-Link) TRE the taper required was all the same - standard GM 1-ton somthin glike 7.125 degree. Making less material to come out of the Pitman arm hole. Plus only one tapered reamer needed. I planned on using a drill press, but a hand drill was all that was needed to taper. Taper and test, taper more and test. Then light the shavings on fire as a bonus.

 

[Bax454]

This is about where it will sit and there is more suspension before the bump stop and less before panhard mount collision.

 

[AMMO]

This is about where it will sit and there is more suspension before the bump stop and less before panhard mount collision.

Just to be clear, the issue is only if the wheel are cut full passenger side and the drivers is stuffed up?

Really need to cycle the suspension with the tires on to see the real world effects.

It maybe something you can live with as with the spung weight of the truck on the tires the chances of rubbing maybe very slim.

-A

 

[Bax454]

Panhard mount on the frame, I could care less about rubbing Panhard bar to tierod at this point. The DOM bar is just laying near where it should be.
Bad picture, but look towards US drivers side. Axle up forcing tierod into panhard mount/brace/whatchacallit.