"A" pillar rust repair

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I spoke with a body man here and he suggests that I use a panel bonding adhesive on this rather than welding. Has anyone used that stuff?
 
never used it but a cruiser owner/body guy was telling me how awesome it is... don't know about your appliction but I guess once you stick it and it sets its pretty much welded.
 
I spoke with a body man here and he suggests that I use a panel bonding adhesive on this rather than welding. Has anyone used that stuff?

It's expensive but then there isn't a dirty weld on the backside that is going to continue to rust.

You need to POr-15 that pillar. Then form and paint a stip of metal for a gutter. Then sand the por for the glue to stick and call it repaired.

Under the gutter material (under the spot weld) I bet Toyota had bare seams. All the rust on these trucks is caused by bare seams.

Even after your done, drill a small hole that a spray oil can fit thru and flood the pillar with some sticky corrosion proofing oil.
 
What is "waxy LPS 3". can you be more specific please?
thx

JimK

LPS3Inhibitor

it dries with a waxy film. Very good stuff. Spray it in to all your crevices on the 60 and it should make a difference. LPS 2 is a bit more penetrating. Lps 1 is a penetrating oil. You can use them in steps if need be.

Best bet is to buy the gallon size of lps 3. Then put it in a spray bottle or brush it on.
 
It's expensive but then there isn't a dirty weld on the backside that is going to continue to rust.

You need to POr-15 that pillar. Then form and paint a stip of metal for a gutter. Then sand the por for the glue to stick and call it repaired.

Under the gutter material (under the spot weld) I bet Toyota had bare seams. All the rust on these trucks is caused by bare seams.

Even after your done, drill a small hole that a spray oil can fit thru and flood the pillar with some sticky corrosion proofing oil.

I talked to a guy here who was a body man in the US before coming down to Guatemala. He says to treat the rust with an inhibitor, prime it then glue on the replacement piece and fillet the glue that oozes out and then finish it off and it should never rust again.

I'm still waiting for the panel bonding adhesive.

My headliner is out right now so I'll be rustproofing those pillars and the roof edge well before reinstalling the headliner.
 
There's a trick for steel bike frames that might work too. Boiled linseed oil creates a chemical reaction with rust (if it's not really bad) that stops the oxidation and prevents further rusting. If it's an older bike and already starting to rust inside the tubes, you pour the stuff in the head or seat tube and turn it 'round and 'round until you think everything inside is coated, then hang it up to drain the excess. maybe you could but it in a spray bottle to do the pillar. I dont know if it would be practical, but it's just an idea. -Rob
 
Bringing this one back from the dead.......... how did you end up with this? I just wire wheeled my A pillar rust and have exactly the same as yours. I'm about to cut the gutter off. I'll hit it with rust inhibitor and then prime and paint it (leaving the gutter off) until I get a better solution.
 

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