FAQ A Guide For Swapping Locks, Popping Door Cards, and Attaching Door Handles

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Joined
Feb 12, 2009
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Location
Colorado
Since day one the KZJ78 that was added to the herd has been able to do the party trick of being able to pull the key out while the engine is running and the truck is in drive. Exciting the first time but something you have to tell others about if they are driving. While typically no big deal, when it’s early and your brain is focused elsewhere it causes confusion to park, pull the key out, but not have the truck turn off. This particular truck has an automatic transmission, and some of you are seeing where this is headed. There is a safety built in that is supposed not to allow the key to be pulled out if the truck isn’t in park, but when your ignition lock cylinder is worn out that gets bypassed. So when your brain is elsewhere and you haven’t actually put the transmission in park because you haven’t finished your coffee yet, but you have your key in your hand it leads to a confusing morning. It would be a lie if this morning was the first time this has happened!

Now because this has been an annoyance for a couple of years now I had luckily picked up a new lock set for the truck from the classifieds. Now is the exact lock set for this truck no, but did it work yes. Should I have done a little more parts research? Yes. Should I have known better also yes. Did I get excited for a good deal on sometimes hard to find parts, also yes. The only issue with the set used was its short one cylinder for the fuel tank door and short a spare tire lock. I think the locking fuel door and spare tire lock might be a market specific or trim package item, but regardless I am happy to have an ignition key that stays put. The fuel door is a moot point because we pull the release from inside anyways, and for the spare tire I left the original key on the ring.
Lock Set.webp


Tools Needed
-Philips screw driver (ideally JIS) if you want to be boujee you can get the Toyota one, but Vessel is the supplier for them.
-A pick, I used this one from Vessel. It comes as a part of a larger set, which I use a ton when working on all the trucks. So if you’re in the market for buying tools I would consider it. Plus it matches the Vessel screwdriver. What’s not to like!
-Trim panel tool. By no means do you need the Toyota one, but it's cool to have on hand for this project. I suspect Bojo Tool makes this kit for Toyota. The second photo is just a different type of trim panel tool I used for the window switch panel.

Tools that are Nice to Have
-Light
-Headlight
-Needlenose pliers. I really like the ones from Tsunoda, part number SNP-150. They are super narrow.

Toyota tools.webp

Big Pry Bar.webp

I suspect the steps below pretty much pertain to most 70 series that match the 80s, 90s, and early 2000s models. So if you got a HZJ75, a FZJ73, a Prado, etc. I think this will get you pointed in the right direction. This Prado does have electric locks and windows, so that will be different if you have manual windows and locks. For manual windows some extra steps not documented in this post are needed. Is this job pretty straightforward? Yes, but as someone who has also snapped part of a door handle off previously I figured someone might find this information helpful later down the road.
 
Ignition Cylinder Lock

Step 1
If you have a sunroof, open the cover if you are working inside a garage because you’ll see a lot better with light from above.

Step 2
I popped off the steering wheel, but I don’t think this is necessary. However, the extra room is nice and the truck came with a Nardi steering wheel, so it was off in just a couple minutes and the extra room was a treat. In some of my research ahead of time I did see others have the wheel off.

Step 3
Pull the clamshell of the column. This had 4 screws and 2 bolts. Pro tip: adjust your steering column to the lowest position if you have an adjustable column.
Screws and Bolts.webp

Step 4
Pop your old key into the ignition and turn the cylinder to “ACC” this will unlock the cylinder.

Step 5
Push the tiny button to pop the barrel loose. This is the button my thumb is on in the photo. It will be on the top of the lock barrel cylinder housing. The angled pick is important because it gets into that tight space. Otherwise if you used a traditional pick or punch I suspect you’ll run into the turn signals or headlight switch.
Cylinder.webp


Step 6
Pull the barrel out. Easy peasy.

Step 7
Insert the new key into the new barrel and once again turn it to “ACC”, and pop it in. It will be snug and it has to be pushed in all the way for that button to seat. The new barrel came with a new O-ring which made it stiff. Make sure the button locks into place.

Step 8
Turn the barrel to “OFF” and pull the key out.

Step 9
Install clamshell again. Make sure to align the post with this bracket. It makes aligning everything much easier. Screws go on the outside and bolts are in the middle.
Clam Sheel Bracket.webp


Step 10
Install the steering wheel if removed.
 
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Front Door Lock, Interior Handle, and Door Card

Step 1
Unscrew retaining screw at door handle.

Step 2
Pop covers that are in the arm rest.

Step 3
Unscrew both screws here. This is where I used the needle nose pliers to get those screws out.
Screws Front Door Card.webp


Step 4
Pop electrical cover off if you have power windows, and undo plug. The clip is towards the front of the door.
Window Switch Clip.webp


Step 5
Remove interior handle from door card. Note the hook direction so you know which way to push the handle off. This photo is on a RHD drivers door. The yellow clip will get popped off the metal rod with the pick.
Front Door Clip.webp


Step 6
Body panel tool time. Working either from the top left or top right work your way around. The top of the panel acts like one big clip and you will left off the door card once you have all the clips undone. Be gentle but firm. The door cards are just skinned fiberboard, so you can damage them if you are being rough.
Back of Drivers Door Card.webp


Step 7
Lift card up off door and feed interior handle through opening.

Step 8
Peel back the plastic vapor barrier in the top right corner.

Step 9
Locate the lock cylinder and pop the colored clip off the rod. This is where that pick will come into play. The clip is pretty stiff, so it might take a couple of attempts.
Clip Undone.webp


Step 10
Pull the metal clip holding the cylinder in place. It is a similar style clip to what you see for attaching soft brake lines to the mounting tabs. And remove metal rod from orange clip.

Step 11
Replace cylinder with cylinder with matching color clip and reverse order. For the door card make sure it seats down all the way before popping the clips back in. This might seem obvious but make sure your hand is clean because you also just finished dealing with the sealant/glue that holds the vapor barrier. I used an open palm to pop the clips into place.
 
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Back Barn Door Lock, Interior Handle, and Door Card

Step 1
Unscrew retaining screw at door handle. (Same location as the front door latch)

Step 2
If possible remove the interior door handle. Note the direction of the hooks. I couldn’t get this one loose to save my life, so I proceed to step 3, which helped me get there. See photo for clip locations.
Back of 70 Series Rear Door Card.webp


Step 3
Pop all the panels loose with the panel tool again.

Step 4
At this point the interior handle was still holding the panel on. So I grabbed the left and right sides of the panel and pushed doors the body of the truck which popped the handle loose.

Step 5
Pull the door card off over the handle and leave the handle attached to the rod.
Rear Door Latch Orientation.webp

Step 6
Peel back the plastic vapor barrier in the top left corner.

Step 8
Locate the lock cylinder and pop the colored clip off the rod. This is where that pick will come into play. The clip is pretty stiff, so it might take a couple of attempts.

Step 9
Pull the metal clip holding the cylinder in place.

Step 10
Replace cylinder with cylinder with matching color clip and reverse order. Make sure the door latch seats all the way. The below photo shows it unhooked and how much it needs to move.
Latch Not Hooked.webp
 
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Thank you for the detailed write up, great job! I’ve got to do my door locks soon on my 75 and they are the last locks to do. I got the kit too as I had several different keys doing different tasks so it will be nice to be back to one key.
 
Thank you for the detailed write up, great job! I’ve got to do my door locks soon on my 75 and they are the last locks to do. I got the kit too as I had several different keys doing different tasks so it will be nice to be back to one key.
Happy to help, and being back to one key sounds nice! I will be curious of what your experience is with the steering wheel.
 
Great write up.

When I bought my 76 it only came with a valet key, so i haven't been able to lock the glove box or open the fuel door. No a huge deal but might consider doing this to get things back to normal.
 
Very useful information for anyone looking to refresh their locks.

Tip: 69005-6B612-C0 will include the glove box, spare wheel and fuel door locks. Actually comes with two fuel door locks since it is for a dual tank troopy. Worked fine for my HZJ77 all around.

Lockset4.webp
 
Happy to help, and being back to one key sounds nice! I will be curious of what your experience is with the steering wheel.
I just left my steering wheel on and was able to push the detent to get the lock cylinder out. One key now of goodness. Does both doors, ignition, glove box, fuel filler cap and spare tire cover :)

IMG_3396.webp
 
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