A first attempt at restoring a 78 FJ40

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I poured some of that rust converter (might be like that Rustoleum stuff) in the bottom of my doors after I cleaned as much as I could up. Make sure the drain holes are clear. Make them bigger if possible. Clogged drains in the doors are usually the culprit when the door bottoms rot out.

The stuff I bought looks like spray paint, so it won't help me on the back. Do you remember the brand you used? Did you pour it from the window opening down, or did you flip the door upside down and pour it from the bottom? I will check out the drain holes. Thanks.
 
If you take the door pannels off you should be close to the bottom of the door. I try to find out what I used.
 
Thanks for all of the info Jeff. My door panels are in bad shape, so I need to get those off anyways.
 
Thanks for all of the info Jeff. My door panels are in bad shape, so I need to get those off anyways.

Andy....we are going to have to get Bodean a spare bedroom and his own refrigerator at one of our houses since he is filling in all the educational holes for us......it's a sucking void on this end.:doh::grinpimp:
 
The bumper didn't win

A brief update...I actually got some time over New Years to do some work. I finally got that bumper off after hours of beating, cutting, and grinding. I also removed the front bib to start working on the painting the grill and other rust spots.

I am at a bit of a crossroads. I am removing parts, sanding/brushing/wheeling off the rust and then spraying with the rust reformer to prevent further damage. I then have to decide on what to do about paint.

I was thinking about spraying the parts with a "similiar" rust oleum tan (cobblestone looks pretty close to some areas of the body). I have a air compressor, but it is only a 11 gallon 125 max PSI, so I don't think it will be strong enough to push a decent pain gun. I plan on having it painted some day, but not anytime soon. Is there a better alternative to rust oleum spray paint?

I am also about to start working on the rust on the frame. I plan on wire wheeling it, spraying a coat rust reformer, and then spraying a coat of rust oleum satin black. I think John talked me out of POR 15 and rust bullett, but I don't want to have to do this every year.

And yes...I now know why many of you referred to it as a sickness.

Andy
Front big and bumper removed.webp
Frame rust.webp
 
Andy,

Good work on the 40.

If your bumper gussetts are just a little bent, we can deal with that. I know someone with a press that can get them back in proper shape.
 
I am also about to start working on the rust on the frame. I plan on wire wheeling it, spraying a coat rust reformer, and then spraying a coat of rust oleum satin black. I think John talked me out of POR 15 and rust bullett, but I don't want to have to do this every year.

Andy

Actually....Jrob talked me out of the 8 step POR 15 process and it made sense as we aren't in the salt belt so I gave that wisdom to you so you wouldn't spend elevendee billion hours on your back prepping a frame for work it didn't need.... wire wheel it, pressure spray it, rust reformer...let it dry and rustoleum and it's good to go....now....when you do your frame off resto....THAT's the time to go big bucks!!!!!

on the paint deal with as many little parts as you have off of it...i'd use that cobblestone on everything to protect it and when you decided to repaint it'll come off easy enough with media blasting or grinding.
 
The good with the bad

First I would like to thank Rob for testing my head gasket today. You saved me from tearing into the engine to look at it. The good news is the test was negative so the head gasket is fine for now. The bad news is it still produced a large amount of smoke that Rob diagnoses as burning oil. It appears my rings may be bad. At least now I can drive it without worrying about it overheating, but it appears I still need to replace the engine down the road. Please keep your eyes out for a used 2f. It appears I am in the market.
 
Have you checked your PCV valve? If it's clogged it will make it smoke. Do you still have the stock air cleaner? Is there oil in the air cleaner housing?
 
For a protectant paint/rust inhibitor, you may want to look at Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I have used this in the past and it does not require a multi-step process to use. Also dries as a glossy black and makes parts look brand new while forever protecting from future rust.

You can apply it with a brush or an air sprayer as well. I love the stuff...just a thought.
 
Have you checked your PCV valve? If it's clogged it will make it smoke. Do you still have the stock air cleaner? Is there oil in the air cleaner housing?

Aftermarket air cleaner. Didn't think about pcv good place to investigate. It's definately burning oil. The whole shop was smoked out during the test. The good ol blue tinted smoke not the white version.
 
Aftermarket air cleaner. Didn't think about pcv good place to investigate. It's definately burning oil. The whole shop was smoked out during the test. The good ol blue tinted smoke not the white version.

Thanks for the heads up Jeff and Rob. The PCV rattled like it was working, but I am going to stop by autozone and pick up a new one. I am guessing I won't get off that easy. The smoke does seem to be worse when it idles (like my smogging of Rob's garage), so maybe it could be the problem. Look how much I am already learning (I am trying to be positive).
 
I think in order for both our cruisers to run one day we may have to "mate" them :doh::lol:

I guess that would mean it was a 77 like Lash has since I have a 76 and you a 78?
 
Was it smoking like that when you bought it?
 
I picked up a new pcv valve and grommet today and looked at the Lucas products at autozone. They had a stop leak and a oil stabilizer. Do you think I should change the oil with a heavier weight and add the Lucas stop leak in the next couple of weeks or just add the lucas without changing the oil.

It did smoke some when I got it but the guy said he just did a thorough washing and thought the carb got wet like gas gauge that was working on and off. I guess I was an idiot for not checking it out more but it was dark and I already had one 40 bought out from under me so I was a bit too eager. The weird thing is that it has not leaked even a drop of oil in the garage.

John I agree we should make one 40 out of ours but I am a little scared how you refer to it as mating.
 
I picked up a new pcv valve and grommet today and looked at the Lucas products at autozone. They had a stop leak and a oil stabilizer. Do you think I should change the oil with a heavier weight and add the Lucas stop leak in the next couple of weeks or just add the lucas without changing the oil.

It did smoke some when I got it but the guy said he just did a thorough washing and thought the carb got wet like gas gauge that was working on and off. I guess I was an idiot for not checking it out more but it was dark and I already had one 40 bought out from under me so I was a bit too eager. The weird thing is that it has not leaked even a drop of oil in the garage.

John I agree we should make one 40 out of ours but I am a little scared how you refer to it as mating.

well I certainly encouraged you to buy it so the blame isn't yours alone, but I dont think it's anything catastrophic. was weird that it didn't leak oil at all :confused:

by mate I simply mean weld and screw parts together.....no wild kingdom stuff.....idea was purely to get a working cruiser!!
 

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