Builds A Canadian build of a JDM BJ74 - *TECH ONLY PLEASE - NO CHAT*

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Did u ever find out what the vibration was from?

Great work and rig
 
Time for an update:

first off I found a billet aluminium door handle on ebay to replace the weak plastic one on the back door. It was actually designed for the 80 series tailgate and that is why the finger grips are backwards. Otherwise a perfect fit and a nice piece

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Next I finally was installing the ARB compressor and switches for my air lockers. Because space is tight on the BJ74 and I have no rear seats I decided to remove the rear heater from the center console and install the compressor in its place.

I made a couple of brackets to give the compressor a nice flat mounting surface and a couple more brackets off of the seatbelt anchors to secure the console. The relay and fuse were mounted in front of the compressor while the wiring harness was fed underneath the carpet and seat and over to passenger side kick panel and up into the dash.

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For the keyed power source and ARB switch illumination I decided to use the existing 24volt harness going to the cigarette lighter. I had already tied my cig lighter to my 12v converter so the red wire was not in use anyway. The small bulb shown in the pic is for the green glow ring around the cig lighter and I was happy to sacrifice it for the cause. This way my dash switch panel is easily unplugged and completely removable

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Finished results! ....... I wont bother with the airline install from the compressor to the axles as I never took any pics and its pretty straight forward

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I had a custom cargo net made up and attached it to the grab handle and tie down points on my expo drawers. . It works great for keeping everything where it belongs including my two large dogs

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So I wanted to be able to do some light towing with the Cruiser, so that inspired the next project. The big issue being the 24v lights with the separate brake and signal circuits on the truck, hooking up to the standard North American 12v lights with integrated brake and signals. Lucky for me someone else on the forum had already done the hard part and drew up a wiring schematic.

Info can be found here: Trailer Lights Logic Circuit & Step Down Voltage Converter

So here is my version of it. As you can see it is a lot of wire and relays to stuff in a little box, so it does take some time. I chose to use flat trailer pugs going to and from the "logic/converter box", so that I could transfer it to another vehicle if I ever wanted.

So its 5 wire from the truck, 4 wire to the trailer and 1 wire to my 12v converter in the glove box. Works like a charm and mounted nicely over the left wheel well behind the interior panel

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The hitch is temporary until I build my rear bumper with receiver. I got a last minute invite to travel 800km south to St Anthony ID to do some quadding in the sand dunes so this is what I came up last minute. Oh and I bought the trailer online a couple of hours before hitting the road. Got to love it when things come together.

I initially just purchased this pintle\ball hitch that surprisingly had the same bolt pattern as the factory tow hook. I quickly realized that it would be way to high for the new trailer so I simply sandwiched a piece of 1/2" steel between the frame and factory tow hook to use as a drop bracket. As far as strength goes the cross member is the weak link in this set up and would twist long before bending the 1/2" steel.

Trailer towed like a dream!! The worst hills going through Montana had me down to 80km/h in 4th gear at 2400rpm. As for weight the expo box and storage area of the truck were loaded to full capacity and the dry weight on my Polaris RZR S is around 1000lbs. Plus it had the foot wells filled with 4 extra gerry cans full of fuel. Here are the actual number from a DOT scale:

5760lbs truck
1520lbs Trailer
7280lbs total

Mileage suffered severely and averaged around 16mpg(US) over the course of the trip. With an average cruising speed around 105kmh (65mph). I also spent a lot of time in 4th gear at higher rpm (3000rpm goes 100kmh) when ever pulling heavy to avoid using the weaker 5 gear overdrive and to keep EGT's down.

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Yeah, I too wouldn't trust the rear frame member to handle that hitch load with that much drop. On mine I had a local metal shop make a full bumper-width channel out of ¼" steel which is bolted onto the frame. That makes it strong enough to resist the twisting.
 
I ordered the ARB tire fill kit for my compressor but was not overly impressed with what you actually get for the money. Plus I think the female quick coupler is much to big and awkward for a nice clean installation. I decided to make my own set up, which would include a quick coupler on both sides of the vehicle.

For a few dollars in fittings, a valve and some hose built to custom lengths, I was able to put this together for about the same price as the ARB kit.

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With the hot summer days I wanted to be able to open the rear sliding windows up all of the way to help keep my dogs cool well letting them enjoy the view, without the fear of them jumping out. So I made up these security bars one afternoon that safely allow them to look out and even share one window if they choose

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Great looking dogs....
In that pose ( looking through the bars ) they look like extras from the movie "Cool Hand Luke".... :D
 
Great work, nice looking dogs, what breed are the dogs? The one on the left looks like my BMC (Black mouth Cur) who needs one of those bars
 

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