A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve (6 Viewers)

[Red Merle]

Can I get a AMEN!!!!! My motto is that I have more time than money.

I have an abundance of time at the moment and I am well into "mission creep" here. I keep asking myself when the next time I am going to be in there is and I honestly don't think it's going to be any time soon. If I can sweeten up the old gal along the way, this is the time. I painted every bolt, nut and fastener, the new body panels were clean and I filled all of the bolt holes with anti seize as I went along.

Once this is done, the only thing left is a possible passenger side fender swap or a redo of what I have and that is about it. Every other system and issue will have been addressed outside of a rear bumper assembly re-fresh which is all painted and ready to go back on with the trailer hitch.

I guess I am due for a build thread if anyone has interest in rust abatement and turd polishing.

 

[bryson]

...if anyone has interest in rust abatement and turd polishing.

Well, we do all own Land Cruisers.

 

[Red Merle]

Well, we do all own Land Cruisers.

I'll put you down for a "maybe" on the build thread.

 

[Red Merle]

Well, I ran into more issues. I got the new line installed, pulled a vacuum and it held for an hour, but then lost some vacuum. I couldn't see any bubbles when I pressurized the system and tried the soapy water mix. I decided I had been dinking around with this for long enough so I decided to shoot a can of r134a with some sort of sealant in it and keep moving, hoping it was just a slow leak in a fitting or something. Well, it turned out to be a leak in the low pressure line and of course it had to be the one that runs behind the motor and under the brake booster.

The new pressure switch I bought from the dealer is the wrong one too, so I just tossed the old one in, which seems to work fine.

I decided I am just going to try to patch it with some aluminum putty before I buy a new line. Winter is coming and I am kinda broke at the moment after all of this and a bunch of unexpected bills.

Also, the stupid valves that everyone sells to pierce the can has a different thread pitch than the manifold gauge set I bought so I had to resort to using one of the cheapy valves that just shoot the can right into the compressor. I wanted to add some dye to the system and use the gauge set, but that just isn't in the cards. There is some dye in it that I can see pushing out of the leak, but I am probably going to dump in a little more when I re-open the system to patch the leak. The leak is at the firewall where there is supposed to be a protective sleeve on the line, but it leaks under that for some reason I can't see yet. I am hoping I can clean it up and get the putty to hold for a while.

I was able to determine that the system works pretty well, minus the leak as I was able to get it down to around 40 degrees on high using recirculating air in the cabin.

Honestly, this has been one of the most annoying projects I have dealt with on this truck and I hope I finally get it sorted out. Not sure if I should reflush the lines now that I added that sealant to it, but much of that is likely going to leak out overnight. I am also just going to order another drier as the one I have been using has to be getting hammered by now.

I am sick of dealing with this at the moment and the delay to wait for the parts and putty to show up is welcome at this point.

 

[alia176]

Dude, sorry about this BS. There's a LX450 at my local U Pull N Pay and if you'd like, I can pull that metal pipe for you if those asshats didn't cut through it for some reason. The engine bay in this rig is mostly intact from what I recall. I'm heading out to do the COBDR starting today so it'll have to be next weekend if you can hold out. Just a thought.,

 

[Red Merle]

Dude, sorry about this BS. There's a LX450 at my local U Pull N Pay and if you'd like, I can pull that metal pipe for you if those asshats didn't cut through it for some reason. The engine bay in this rig is mostly intact from what I recall. I'm heading out to do the COBDR starting today so it'll have to be next weekend if you can hold out. Just a thought.,

I appreciate the offer but I have a feeling that it might not be the same pipe as mine has. There was a big discussion with the parts guys at my local dealer just so I could get the right part for the lines I did buy. I would also be worried that it would get damaged in the mail.

I am just going to try to patch it. I don't really have time to remove the brake booster and all of the stuff I would need to get out of the way to get to the whole line anyway.

I have a good feeling about the putty I ordered. Most guys are reporting that it works pretty well. Amazon.com: Customer reviews: MASTERCOOL 90934 Alum Bond A/C Repair Epoxy - 2 oz.

If it fails, I will have to revisit this project in the spring.

 

[flintknapper]

If you go the 'putty' route...be sure and extend it a good inch or so to each side of the repair site. You will have a better chance of it holding up under the expansion/contraction of the line that way.

 

[Red Merle]

If you go the 'putty' route...be sure and extend it a good inch or so to each side of the repair site. You will have a better chance of it holding up under the expansion/contraction of the line that way.

Good call. I am also considering trying to use one of the splice type kits with the compression fittings if it fails and I also have some sections of line from the part I removed that I could splice in too. I am not sure if that will be much cheaper than the whole new line though as those look to be around $40 a pop and I would need two of them.

Plus, the leak is in a bad spot for that. The line runs right up against the firewall where the low pressure line comes out of the evaporator. The foam sleeve you see in the second pic was covering the leak area. Not sure if it was abrasion or corrosion that caused the leak as I haven't been able to get my mirror back there yet to look at it. It's a pain in the buns, at any rate.

 

[Tedward]

Dont know the year of your wagon. I did just replace that pipe on a 95 though. I unbolted the brake master cylinder and got the pipe across the firewall without much hassle. I did have to remove one brake line from the master as well as I've done the abs delete. Just a reference for your options.

 

[Red Merle]

I could also try cutting a seam down section of the old line I have and try to slip that over the leak and then putty around all of that but I have a feeling the line would crack if I tried to open it up to slip it on. Would heating the lines a bit with a propane torch make them easier to bend? I thought of that too, but I am not sure if it would make it better or more more brittle. I have to get the leak area more free than it is, but it's in a bad spot to see what I am doing and if I could bend the line a little more, that might make it easier.

 

[Red Merle]

Dont know the year of your wagon. I did just replace that pipe on a 95 though. I unbolted the brake master cylinder and got the pipe across the firewall without much hassle. I did have to remove one brake line from the master as well as I've done the abs delete. Just a reference for your options.

Mine is a '94, which seemed to mean that it had unique lines and from pics I have seen of other years, I think it does. I always have a new line as an option(or at least I hope I do).

 

[Tedward]

That sound like a terrible job to me. Taking it out you may have to slowly bend it and fiddle around. Same for going back in. That does make it a little hard to get it back in the firewall holding clips, but doable.

You have a 94, I read that now.

 

[Red Merle]

That sound like a terrible job to me. Taking it out you may have to slowly bend it and fiddle around. Same for going back in. That does make it a little hard to get it back in the firewall holding clips, but doable.

You have a 94, I read that now.

It's definitely a turd sandwich. The hole is in a bad spot, the line is in a bad spot and there is a bend in the line, right near where the hole appears to be. A new line might be the best option, but I have the whole front end of the truck apart right now and I need to focus on getting it back on the road because my other truck needs work now too and I can't even drive to a parts store. I spent 3 hours biking around to 6 different stores just trying to find a valve to use with the manifold gauges to add refrigerant. Ugh.

 

[ZackR]

Looks like a tight spot but the line splices do work. I did one down where the AC line passes near the battery tray and it's been holding for the last 14 months. At the time I assumed a new line wouldn't be available or it would be expensive, neither of which was the case in hindsight. I also thought I'd just throw a splice on, top off the system and call it a day. LOL... it was only the beginning.

Once you get the truck back on the road it'll be easier to refocus your efforts and get the AC dialed in. You are on the home stretch!

 

[Red Merle]

Looks like a tight spot but the line splices do work. I did one down where the AC line passes near the battery tray and it's been holding for the last 14 months. At the time I assumed a new line wouldn't be available or it would be expensive, neither of which was the case in hindsight. I also thought I'd just throw a splice on, top off the system and call it a day. LOL... it was only the beginning.

Once you get the truck back on the road it'll be easier to refocus your efforts and get the AC dialed in. You are on the home stretch!

Which style did you use? There are a lot of options and some are more expensive than others. Also, what size are these low pressure lines if you know?

 

[ZackR]

This is the splice I used.... If did this again knowing what I know now I would have just bought a new line for about twice the price.

AirSept® 77008 - Straight Line Splice A/C Repair Kit

 

[Red Merle]

This is the splice I used.... If did this again knowing what I know now I would have just bought a new line for about twice the price.

AirSept® 77008 - Straight Line Splice A/C Repair Kit

View attachment 1793756

Yeah, at that price and the hassle I think it would be to get that on there without causing another leak, I would just buy a new line next spring. I think the patch should work and if not, I will suck it up and get a new line.

 

[Red Merle]

Dont know the year of your wagon. I did just replace that pipe on a 95 though. I unbolted the brake master cylinder and got the pipe across the firewall without much hassle. I did have to remove one brake line from the master as well as I've done the abs delete. Just a reference for your options.

So I checked and the price on the line isn't that bad and it does seem to be available. I did the ABS delete too and I am wondering why you had to remove a line? I can unbolt the booster, but I really don't want to open the brake system because they are functioning perfectly right now and bleeding them is tough as I don't have a reliable helper.

 

[Tedward]

Thinking....
Ok, I probably didn't need to move that one brake line.
I was trying to get the old out as straight as I could. Think when the new one went in is when I realized could have left the brake line alone.
Its like there was one bend in the old that wasn't bent yet in the new, for shipping reasons I assume.
Also, mine is a 95 so it may have been a bit different as you pointed out.
Another possiblity is the same one is used for both and we may be expected to tweak it just a touch one way or the other based on our need, year of station wagon.

 

[Red Merle]

I went ahead and ordered the new line. I decided that after spending all of the time and money that I have sunk into this junket, cheaping out at the last minute was dumb. I will probably just pull the booster as I have been wanting to paint it anyway and toss in the new line next weekend.