A 40 Inch Dream and Request for Help

[MTKID]

The portals add 3.5" width per side. No doubt committing to a wider track width. Which should account for the taller profile and add back stability. Yes, I'd agree it would be a better pairing with stock control arms. Even though the portals make things wider, it does maintain scrub radius to preserve good geometry.

My tiny LX on 35s next to his Portal'd Bronco IIRC on 38s.
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74Weld made a good tech video that talks at length about many of these concerns.

You need to convince Quinn to build the portals in such a way that moves the center of the wheel magically forward enough to allow a 40 to clear the firewall (then my trimming works perfectly for a 42!).

…and can I request an updated photo with your 37’s now parked behind his Bronco?

 

[TeCKis300]

You need to convince Quinn to build the portals in such a way that moves the center of the wheel magically forward enough to allow a 40 to clear the firewall (then my trimming works perfectly for a 42!).

…and can I request an updated photo with your 37’s now parked behind his Bronco?

42s on Portals. Now we're talking. That's monster truck territory.

37s are like 2 sizes ago for you? Snore. We need some straight 40s representation here.

 

[indycole]

If there's anyone near San Jose, CA willing to give me a ride in any vehicle with portals I'd love to get an idea of what I'd be getting myself into.

I can't help you with portals but I have done most of the mods required for 37s. I'm currently running 35s but previously had some 315/70r18s that were oddly larger than spec and about the size of most 37 inch tires. In any case, I'm local and you'd be welcome to check out the truck, places where it still rubs even on large 35s, etc. as part of understanding what you may need to look out for if you go down the path of 37s.

 

[TaishoCruiser]

You need to convince Quinn to build the portals in such a way that moves the center of the wheel magically forward enough to allow a 40 to clear the firewall (then my trimming works perfectly for a 42!).

…and can I request an updated photo with your 37’s now parked behind his Bronco?

Ahh - moving the front wheels forward . I might need another coffee but could imagine that being pretty pricey to do on a new portal design. On the flip side, would it be easier to do this with some fabricated stock length arms that just shift he knuckel forward one inch, or even a new subframe (something like JDFab does for the Tacoma and 120/150 series)?

 

[TeCKis300]

Ahh - moving the front wheels forward . I might need another coffee but could imagine that being pretty pricey to do on a new portal design. On the flip side, would it be easier to do this with some fabricated stock length arms that just shift he knuckel forward one inch, or even a new subframe (something like JDFab does for the Tacoma and 120/150 series)?

I've been staring at this problem for awhile. I have a spare set of OE LCAs that I was ready to cut up and re-weld to stagger the knuckle 1" forward. Some minor complexity but doable. There are aftermarket LCAs for other Yota's, including RCLT HDs that push the knuckle forward. Turns out I didn't need to at least for 37s against the body mount. As I have the factory bumper, clearance there is just as tight.

You're right that modifying the subframe and pickup points would be just as viable. I was more ready to cut/mod the LCAs than the frame however.

Gotta give consideration to the CVs, and if they will stay happy with with the new angles.

 

[MTKID]

Ahh - moving the front wheels forward . I might need another coffee but could imagine that being pretty pricey to do on a new portal design. On the flip side, would it be easier to do this with some fabricated stock length arms that just shift he knuckel forward one inch, or even a new subframe (something like JDFab does for the Tacoma and 120/150 series)?

I think it was JDFab that I reached out to and they were willing to consider it, so I shared that here, to which there were a few that thought it couldn’t move forward enough to make a difference without compromising the CV angle. This was based on some experiences with the SPC UCA causing issues in its most forward position. Then SPC warning them that the most forward position shouldn’t be used, in order to prevent damage to the CV’s. So I didn’t pursue it any further.

 

[TeCKis300]

I think it was JDFab that I reached out to and they were willing to consider it, so I shared that here, to which there were a few that thought it couldn’t move forward enough to make a difference without compromising the CV angle. This was based on some experiences with the SPC UCA causing issues in its most forward position. Then SPC warning them that the most forward position shouldn’t be used, in order to prevent damage to the CV’s. So I didn’t pursue it any further.

Good points.

I think it's one of those things that with extreme droop travel, combined with excess forward biasing, that it goes beyond the bounds of CV travel/angle. The extents of that travel/angle is defined by a circle about the output of the diff assembly. Moderating down travel, or adding a diff drop, could improve and allow margin to move the knuckle forward. Even more extreme, could move the diff forward too.

 

[re500]

Go to Swat Customs in fremont. They should be able to cover you.

 

[TaishoCruiser]

Good points.

I think it's one of those things that with extreme droop travel, combined with excess forward biasing, that it goes beyond the bounds of CV travel/angle. The extents of that travel/angle is defined by a circle about the output of the diff assembly. Moderating down travel, or adding a diff drop, could improve and allow margin to move the knuckle forward. Even more extreme, could move the diff forward too.

I think it was JDFab that I reached out to and they were willing to consider it, so I shared that here, to which there were a few that thought it couldn’t move forward enough to make a difference without compromising the CV angle. This was based on some experiences with the SPC UCA causing issues in its most forward position. Then SPC warning them that the most forward position shouldn’t be used, in order to prevent damage to the CV’s. So I didn’t pursue it any further.

I wondered how that would work with the shorter length (and thus more exagerated angle) of a standard length arm trying to push the wheelbase forward. @MTKID - thanks for sharing the feedback from JDFab and others based on pushing the knuckle forward with the SPC's.

@TeCKis300 - as I am LC200 free at the moment, if one was to hypothetically move the diff and steering rack forward, is there room, and or, what are you running into?

 

[krice118]

I vote 40s on 2016+ LX no portals.

 

[TaishoCruiser]

So just to circle back with a few rough numbers on long travel and stretching the wheelbase, here are some notes I found (please verify with a vendor before planning around these numbers though ).

LSK - 4.5 inches wider per side, 1.25 inch wheelbase extension
Camburg - 2.5 inches wider per side, 1 inch wheelbase extension* - I have this in notes but don't see the wheelbase stretch called out on Camburg's page
Total Chaos - 2.5 inches wider per side, 1 inch wheelbase extension

Not applicable to the LC200 but I think the Marlin RCLT we are referencing moves the knuckle forward by two inches along with an increase of 2.75 or 3.5 inches in width per side. I need to look at some pictures again, but I'm guessing the custom knuckle, while moving the wheel forward two inches, doesn't necessarily kick the tie rod out that far/at that extreme of an angle?

 

[TeCKis300]

You need to convince Quinn to build the portals in such a way that moves the center of the wheel magically forward enough to allow a 40 to clear the firewall (then my trimming works perfectly for a 42!).

…and can I request an updated photo with your 37’s now parked behind his Bronco?

Talked with Quinn a bit this weekend. Looks like the 200-series/Tundra fitment is slated for later this year as they've got some priority projects to work on including the LC250.

Here's his new Ranger Raptor on portals which he praises as one of the higher performance factory offerings in a tidy package. Factory tune putting it up at 455HP/536lb-ft. Watts rear axle link. Live valve suspension. For ~$60k. +$20k portals. Can't disagree!

 

[Artie]

Just now catching up on this thread. It just screams “if I won the lottery I wouldn’t tell anyone, but there would be signs.”

Absolutely obnoxious on so many levels…

SUBSCRIBED!

 

[MTKID]

Talked with Quinn a bit this weekend. Looks like the 200-series/Tundra fitment is slated for later this year as they've got some priority projects to work on including the LC250.

Here's his new Ranger Raptor on portals which he praises as one of the higher performance factory offerings in a tidy package. Factory tune putting it up at 455HP/536lb-ft. Watts rear axle link. Live valve suspension. For ~$60k. +$20k portals. Can't disagree!

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Only thing I dislike (aside from the high cost) is the requirement to change to 6x hole pattern wheel. For most it’s probably not that big of deal but I like my current wheels.

Someone should try them still with a Braid Forged UR4 Beadlock though.

@TeCKis300 you swapped back to the 35’s for towing duty? We want to see your rig on 37’s next to his Ranger raptor!

 

[TeCKis300]

@TeCKis300 you swapped back to the 35’s for towing duty? We want to see your rig on 37’s next to his Ranger raptor!

Yeah, I didn't get a deeper drop hitch in time so went back to 35s. This particular trip had some brutal climbs and grades, enough that a buddy overheated his RAM going out. I'm not so much concerned about overheating, rather having sufficient engine braking with 37s. This might be a job for 4.88s. Another difference is that 35s on 20s are much more stable than 37s on 18s. Will ease into things to make sure towing 8k on 37s is reasonable and safe.

I think you said it before, but it's hard to swap back to smaller tires once into a larger set. Especially when another buddy shows up with a brand new Bronco Everglades on 37s.

Then there was this beast. Now I'm way off topic.

 

[Artie]

Then there was this beast. Now I'm way off topic.

View attachment 3727548

this dude the stainless steel cousin of Goldmember?

 

[isthatalexus]

Yeah, I didn't get a deeper drop hitch in time so went back to 35s. This particular trip had some brutal climbs and grades, enough that a buddy overheated his RAM going out. I'm not so much concerned about overheating, rather having sufficient engine braking with 37s. This might be a job for 4.88s. Another difference is that 35s on 20s are much more stable than 37s on 18s. Will ease into things to make sure towing 8k on 37s is reasonable and safe.

I think you said it before, but it's hard to swap back to smaller tires once into a larger set. Especially when another buddy shows up with a brand new Bronco Everglades on 37s.

View attachment 3727546

Then there was this beast. Now I'm way off topic.

View attachment 3727548

So, that rounded thing in the back is the battery, yes? Or a 40kWp array that transformers out [transformer noises].

 

[HSTexan]

Only thing I dislike (aside from the high cost) is the requirement to change to 6x hole pattern wheel. For most it’s probably not that big of deal but I like my current wheels.

Someone should try them still with a Braid Forged UR4 Beadlock though.

View attachment 3727532
@TeCKis300 you swapped back to the 35’s for towing duty? We want to see your rig on 37’s next to his Ranger raptor!

I have been patiently waiting for 74Weld since they first teased 200 series development last fall. I was stuck looking for proper 5 lugs until they recently announced the switch to 6x139.7. I'm still on factory BBS so not a huge deal for me, but this exact wheel is what I have been looking at doing for both 5 or 6 lugs. After the 6 lug decision I originally checked the newer 300/250 series fitment of TE37 Large PCD Progressive Model II. Always wanted a set of TE's and thought this was my chance, but load rating is a measly 2100lbs per wheel so that's back out. These Braids are at the top of the list along with 4x4Engineering Bradley Forged Takumi's--not beadlocks though. No 40s either, I'm happy to settle on "wimpy" 38s