'99 LX-Dead Battery with new Battery & Alternator :(

[CanuckS100]

I took the measurement and it was above 500ma...can't recall the exact number.

 

[CanuckS100]

This sounds like it could be a water intrusion issue. My Daughter's rig had some weird things going on that were "miraculously" solved by drying things out.

Any thoughts on this electrical gremlin?

forum.ih8mud.com

You could be right. I found water in the bottom of the driver's side floor board (door side under the gas and hood latch). I do live in the PNW. Still monitoring and testing. High-Beams still on when the head lights are turned on.

 

[CanuckS100]

Ok, looks like my ECU-B 15A fuse was blown, so I replaced it and the high-beams are operating as normal. Testing the circuit again, 2.1 (200m setting). When I remove that fuse above, it goes down the 0.4. Thoughts?

 

[Jaysway10]

No lights on the dash. This only happens when it sits for several days, not when I am driving it everyday.

I had the same issue. How are your locks? I would assume as a 99', if you haven't replaced your lock actuators then the motors are likely weak. This means that if you lock it, one or more of the motors may not fully lock. They may lock enough to actually physically prevent the door from opening, but not enough to send a return signal to stop sending power to the lock, so the little motor keeps sucking power, hence why your battery dies when you let it sit. I replaced all the little motors in the actuators and it completely solved my issue.

A good place to start to see if this is your issue is to leave the truck unlocked and see if your battery still dies. You could also try locking the truck and then use a multimeter on the corresponding fuse to see if there is a current. (not sure if it would change with the door open, or if you could contort yourself over the center console to reach down into the footwell with all the doors shut)

 

[CanuckS100]

I had the same issue. How are your locks? I would assume as a 99', if you haven't replaced your lock actuators then the motors are likely weak. This means that if you lock it, one or more of the motors may not fully lock. They may lock enough to actually physically prevent the door from opening, but not enough to send a return signal to stop sending power to the lock, so the little motor keeps sucking power, hence why your battery dies when you let it sit. I replaced all the little motors in the actuators and it completely solved my issue.

A good place to start to see if this is your issue is to leave the truck unlocked and see if your battery still dies. You could also try locking the truck and then use a multimeter on the corresponding fuse to see if there is a current. (not sure if it would change with the door open, or if you could contort yourself over the center console to reach down into the footwell with all the doors shut)

That's bizarre, but worth a check for sure!

 

[CanuckS100]

Ok still an issue and I took it to a specialized mechanic that's good at electrical issues. He identified the issue circuit but stopped there because of the extent of the remaining search, and possibility of lack of parts. I didn't get charged though. He found a 250ma draw, coming from the ECU-B fuse. The power locks are part of this circuit and I can test those out. Anything else on this circuit that could be the issue?

 

[DrHess]

Start disconnecting stuff one at a time. The stuff you have circled. With an ammeter in line with the battery negative, disconnect the plug going to the various computers or parts listed. Find the circuits in the wiring diagrams, the locations, etc., in the parts manual(s). For example, disconnect the computer that runs the seat memory position. Any change? If not, go to the next one. Navigation, etc. The anti-theft system would have a high suspicion.

 

[WallyZ]

I had the same issue. How are your locks? I would assume as a 99', if you haven't replaced your lock actuators then the motors are likely weak. This means that if you lock it, one or more of the motors may not fully lock. They may lock enough to actually physically prevent the door from opening, but not enough to send a return signal to stop sending power to the lock, so the little motor keeps sucking power, hence why your battery dies when you let it sit. I replaced all the little motors in the actuators and it completely solved my issue.

A good place to start to see if this is your issue is to leave the truck unlocked and see if your battery still dies. You could also try locking the truck and then use a multimeter on the corresponding fuse to see if there is a current. (not sure if it would change with the door open, or if you could contort yourself over the center console to reach down into the footwell with all the doors shut)

I am having a battery drain and a few of my locks don’t work. I need to look into this.

Side note, I have found a great video on YouTube showing different techniques for battery drain diagnostics. The guy is a Ford technician, working on a Ford vehicle. But the information should be the same

 

[CanuckS100]

Thanks for the advice guys! Does anyone have a 1999 LX wiring diagram? I have a '04 but the circuits are a bit different.

 

[DrHess]

The wiring diagram book is a more than a half inch thick.

 

[CanuckS100]

I am having a battery drain and a few of my locks don’t work. I need to look into this.

Side note, I have found a great video on YouTube showing different techniques for battery drain diagnostics. The guy is a Ford technician, working on a Ford vehicle. But the information should be the same

That is a GREAT walk-through and methodology!

 

[CanuckS100]

OH k, ladies and germs. My Tilt and Telescopic ECU was burned out due to water dripping down on it from around the windshield. The windshield was previously delt with, but the damage was done draining my battery. Quick switch out with a used one and I am now back up and running without a drain and my tilt feature working. The telescopic motor and rod is fried, so I have a used one I am about to put in. Thanks for all of the help and conversations! REALLY appreciate it!!

 

[bcripe]

I had the same issue. How are your locks? I would assume as a 99', if you haven't replaced your lock actuators then the motors are likely weak. This means that if you lock it, one or more of the motors may not fully lock. They may lock enough to actually physically prevent the door from opening, but not enough to send a return signal to stop sending power to the lock, so the little motor keeps sucking power, hence why your battery dies when you let it sit. I replaced all the little motors in the actuators and it completely solved my issue.

A good place to start to see if this is your issue is to leave the truck unlocked and see if your battery still dies. You could also try locking the truck and then use a multimeter on the corresponding fuse to see if there is a current. (not sure if it would change with the door open, or if you could contort yourself over the center console to reach down into the footwell with all the doors shut)

Where did you get the motors? I have current draw intermittent with weather in my 99 and the doors don’t lock well. Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Typical door locks "bad motor". Is door(s) on sunny side or very hot day, don't work or stop working after a few uses. Cooler days out of sunny, they work.

Weather related water entry, is usually different:
Water entry can be issue, even after leak stopped. Very often the with gremlins, water resulted in oxidation on contacts. During leaks, issues "may" change from day to day. Once leak stopped and area inside kept dry. If any issues persist, they tend to be constant. Meaning do not change day to day.

If more than one issue persist. Look for a central point in wire diagram, for those circuits. Which I've found in one case at ground blocks of foot-well side junction box. Pulling fuses of a box, may yield an additional clue. If any feel stuck and/or contact not shinny clean (mild signs of oxidation), zero in on that junction box.

Aftermarket toys need considering also. Which the drop down DVDs and headrest DVD are aftermarket (they're not factory installed).

Additionally, do not leave headlights on auto, if parking more than a few days.

 

[bcripe]

Thanks. I have been chasing current draw for awhile. Locks generally don’t work great at any time / temp. I found four motors on eBay. Will take advice on headlights. Current draw is .035 amps.

Typical door locks "bad motor". Is door(s) on sunny side or very hot day, don't work or stop working after a few uses. Cooler days out of sunny, they work.

Weather related water entry, is usually different:
Water entry can be issue, even after leak stopped. Very often the with gremlins, water resulted in oxidation on contacts. During leaks, issues "may" change from day to day. Once leak stopped and area inside kept dry. If any issues persist, they tend to be constant. Meaning do not change day to day.

If more than one issue persist. Look for a central point in wire diagram, for those circuits. Which I've found in one case at ground blocks of foot-well side junction box. Pulling fuses of a box, may yield an additional clue. If any feel stuck and/or contact not shinny clean (mild signs of oxidation), zero in on that junction box.

Aftermarket toys need considering also. Which the drop down DVDs and headrest DVD are aftermarket (they're not factory installed).

Additionally, do not leave headlights on auto, if parking more than a few days.