'99 LC Locked Axle into '01 LX Swap (1 Viewer)

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Bama4door

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Starting on the '99 locked axle swap into the LX today. I've also got AHC spacers and some stock 80 series springs to swap in as well. I'm going to use this thread to document the swap along with way and ask questions as things come up.

Looking over both axles, I've noticed some differences between the two:

1) I noticed on the '99 locked axle that there is 3 way tee on top of the axle for the brake lines. There are 2 hard lines that run from both calipers to the tee and then there is a rubber softline that goes from the tee up to the frame and runs back to the booster.

2) On the '01 LX, there are 2 rubber soft lines coming from the frame that go down into individual hard lines on the axle.

So basically, I have to figure out a way to get the 2 rubber soft lines on the LX to go into 1 line into the tee on the '99 locked axle.

What's the easiest way to do this? Just take out the tee on the '99 locked axle and then run the 2 soft rubber lines into each hard line on the new locked axle?

See attached pics for reference...and thanks for the help!

99 locked axle brake line.jpg


LX Brake Line.jpg


Locked Axle 1.jpg
 
I did this swap 98 LC to 01 LC. Didn't have to do anything like that it just hooked both were the same. why not just remove the T off the 99? seems like the easiest route
 
'99 has no VSC. '01 has VSC and needs the two rear brake lines to be independent of each other... so you won't be using the Tee. Basically, you need to bring your '01 brake lines over... or any part that is not the same.
 
Thanks @hoser and @savirc

I just got the LX axle completely disconnected tonight and ready to roll out tomorrow morning.

Also, I wasn't able to pull the rear locker ECU from the parts truck in time so I ordered up the Slee CPU earlier this week. Should be here early next week.

Pic of everything disconnected...

LX axle.jpg
 
That’s rad!
 
Starting on the '99 locked axle swap into the LX today. I've also got AHC spacers and some stock 80 series springs to swap in as well. I'm going to use this thread to document the swap along with way and ask questions as things come up.

Looking over both axles, I've noticed some differences between the two:

1) I noticed on the '99 locked axle that there is 3 way tee on top of the axle for the brake lines. There are 2 hard lines that run from both calipers to the tee and then there is a rubber softline that goes from the tee up to the frame and runs back to the booster.

2) On the '01 LX, there are 2 rubber soft lines coming from the frame that go down into individual hard lines on the axle.

So basically, I have to figure out a way to get the 2 rubber soft lines on the LX to go into 1 line into the tee on the '99 locked axle.

What's the easiest way to do this? Just take out the tee on the '99 locked axle and then run the 2 soft rubber lines into each hard line on the new locked axle?

See attached pics for reference...and thanks for the help!

View attachment 1558634

View attachment 1558635

View attachment 1558636
Don't 98 & 99 have a 4.3 gear ratio whereas 2000+ are 4.1 ?
 
Thanks @hoser and @savirc

I just got the LX axle completely disconnected tonight and ready to roll out tomorrow morning.

Also, I wasn't able to pull the rear locker ECU from the parts truck in time so I ordered up the Slee CPU earlier this week. Should be here early next week.

Pic of everything disconnected...

View attachment 1558699

Your going to need a wiring harness and will be unable to use the stock one with the sleep cpu. You will need to make your own or buy one from 12volt guy. Cheers
 
Your going to need a wiring harness and will be unable to use the stock one with the sleep cpu. You will need to make your own or buy one from 12volt guy. Cheers
Thanks for the heads up. Do you have the write up on what you used in your build thread?
 
Thanks for the heads up. Do you have the write up on what you used in your build thread?

Yes, it should be in my thread. By the way I do NOT recommend the slee cpu, I'm on my second one. They do not stand behind their product and once you wire it for the slee cpu you are stuck with it unless you re-wire everything. There are better choices out there. I also recommend that you bench test everything that is e locker wired to switch etc.
 
Yes, it should be in my thread. By the way I do NOT recommend the slee cpu, I'm on my second one. They do not stand behind their product and once you wire it for the slee cpu you are stuck with it unless you re-wire everything. There are better choices out there. I also recommend that you bench test everything that is e locker wired to switch etc.
Dang that's a bummer to hear, I just ordered one earlier this week.

I was just looking on 12voltguy.com at the e-locker harness they make and it says it's not compatible with the factory switch. What're you using for a switch to activate the locker?
 
The slee cpu allows you to use the stock locker switch, you can also use the stock cpu and only use part of the wiring. I have one but waiting for the slee to fail to use the stock one. My slee worked 2 times and then was dead, which is why I suggest bench testing everything to save you grief. Second one has been on for a year and hasn't stopped working "yet" they are not serviceable and have no warranty. If it's DOA they don't honor refund or exchange it's buy at risk basically. It could be faulty the moment you get it. I'm using stock switch, there are other set ups that allow this, using stock cpu allows it as well.
 
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Good timing, I will watching this thread closely.

I am about to do this swap on my 03. I have a donor axle, CPU, switch and some of the factory harness. I am hoping I can make up the missing harness pieces using the EWD as a reference. I will probably regear the rear to 4.1 so I don't have to touch the factory front diff.
 
Good timing, I will watching this thread closely.

I am about to do this swap on my 03. I have a donor axle, CPU, switch and some of the factory harness. I am hoping I can make up the missing harness pieces using the EWD as a reference. I will probably regear the rear to 4.1 so I don't have to touch the factory front diff.
You could always regear the front diff to 4.3 and swap in a TJM or ARB front locker while you're at it :cool:

Ive slowly been working on it this morning. Got the stock LX axle pulled out today and I'm in the process of bolting up the locked axle. Probably finish up tomorrow.

IMG_3405.JPG


IMG_3406.JPG
 
What am I missing here, not being sarcastic someone please help.

I have a 99LX and have also acquired a 99 LC locked axle, I to plan on this conversion.

The LC has a computer that checks for limits and actuated the locker as the same time also turns off the abs brakes. With both of these kits I do not see a box to do this, just a switch like some fog lights.

I do not have the computer and was planning on the SLEE kit as well.

Thank you for the teaching,

Mark
 
What am I missing here, not being sarcastic someone please help.

I have a 99LX and have also acquired a 99 LC locked axle, I to plan on this conversion.

The LC has a computer that checks for limits and actuated the locker as the same time also turns off the abs brakes. With both of these kits I do not see a box to do this, just a switch like some fog lights.

I do not have the computer and was planning on the SLEE kit as well.

Thank you for the teaching,

Mark

Mark,

The way the stock locker works is simpler than you'd think. All the stock computer does is limit the speed at which the locker can be turned off or on. For the sake of simplicity forget the ABS components, as far as an aftermarket locker set up goes it has no play in it, even with atrac which I have.

The e-locker has like any other electric motor turns one direction and change the polarity it moves the other direction. That's your on-off actuator that locks and unlocks. Then in addition to that there is a limiter switch that let's the locker know the arm is fully extended therefore locked and cuts power to the electric motor so it doesn't keep running. That's it that is all there is to it. There is one more sensor for the actual "locker light" that is negative (-) wires that will allow you to hook a light and know when the locker is on. It's a pressure sensor that detects the arm fully extended as well. Both kits work the only special thing on the sleep is it has a limiter that doesn't rely on the sensor

I've taken all of these parts appart and dissected them in detail and have bench tested them to see how they operate.

The stock computer forces you to activate in slow speeds and will not let you go on 4-hi. So the stock computer is connected to the transmission for the management to these safety features. Aftermarket setup like the one I posted you can lock it whenever you want.
 
By the way all those components I talked about are in the e-locker apparatus.
 
Bama-

What was the preference for swapping into a used factory locked axle vs installing a Harrop E-locker or ARB into your existing axle? Cost savings or the challenge or something else?

I am enjoying watching you pull your truck apart, commend your wrench skills especially tackling this challenge, but it seems like a lot of added hours, effort, $$ & reliability risk retrofitting your truck with different electrics( ecu swap, different wiring harnesses), new brake lines, 18yr old actuator, and the time of physically swapping the axles; simply to get a locked axle.

Harrop E Locker + set up + install costs around $1700-$1900 otd; ($900ish for the locker if you DIY set up and install)
 

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