'99 LC Locked Axle into '01 LX Swap (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Can't you do a direct wiring. The actuator is like the door lock mechanism, so two wires to lock it and two wires to unlock correct? Have the switch in a place that you will not turn on while you are at 65 MPH.
I was planning to get my 4runner with a locking axle but then I bought the cruiser. Since then I want a locker in the cruiser and planing to do the same thing you did with a 98 or 99 axle.

I've been reading your posts all along.... good job!!!
Wiring is definitely something I need more work at, but I'm sure you may be able to wire it direct. I'm mainly just wiring it like people have in the past for ease of mind.
 
You're exactly right! The stock LX470 springs look puny next to the 80/100 springs.

Do you have the Japan4x4 AHC shock spacers on yours?

No shock spacers, I was running spring spacers on the rear coils when the stock AHC springs were getting weak and the rear AHC pressures were high out of spec.

My :princess: is pretty short, so a stock height LX (on 33s) is good for her, AHC lift is good for when we go wheeling.
 
Wiring is definitely something I need more work at, but I'm sure you may be able to wire it direct. I'm mainly just wiring it like people have in the past for ease of mind.

Can you go back to the 100 in the bone yard and get the harness and computer off that?
 
Can you go back to the 100 in the bone yard and get the harness and computer off that?
I wish I could, but the wrecked 100 is already gone. I checked their website the other week. I'm an idiot and never went back to go grab it after I pulled the axle... :bang:
 
I sure wish I could find a locked axle like yours for that cheap. I'm looking at an ARB for the front and rear (I have a 98 with the 2pinion front dif) and am going to sail over $2.4k easily with the compressor and a self-install.

Don’t want to hijack but I got a built front diff with TJM locker for $1600 plus core a couple weeks ago from JT Just Differentials. They were having a $500 off sale. I’m 4.1 ratio in my 2006 and I think you’re probably 4.3 but it might be worth it to check in with them. I didn’t get the compressor to hook it up yet but I know it’ll come in under $2400.
 
Don’t want to hijack but I got a built front diff with TJM locker for $1600 plus core a couple weeks ago from JT Just Differentials. They were having a $500 off sale. I’m 4.1 ratio in my 2006 and I think you’re probably 4.3 but it might be worth it to check in with them. I didn’t get the compressor to hook it up yet but I know it’ll come in under $2400.
I know there was a TJM locker sale about 6 months to a year ago and a bunch of 100 guys bought them up. They may run another sale around Christmas time.
 
@Bama4door Were you able to finish the wiring? I am planning to tackle this over the next week or so and any pictures you could post of how the wiring was routed etc would be appreciated.
 
@Bama4door Were you able to finish the wiring? I am planning to tackle this over the next week or so and any pictures you could post of how the wiring was routed etc would be appreciated.
Yes I finished the wiring with the Slee control box and the 12voltguy harness like @savirc did. The only issue we both ran into with the wiring instructions is that with the factory locker switch, the On position is actually Off and vice versa. It's kind of frustrating, but I don't have the first idea of how to change it up. I've used the locker for the past year or so on several wheeling trips and have never had any problems. Having a rear locker with front ATRAC is a hard setup to beat. I've shocked a lot of people with what it can do as is (and it's a Lexus not even a Land Cruiser :) )

As far as wiring, I did draw up a chart on which wires go to where, so I'll have to dig around and see if I can find it. Good luck this weekend, keep us posted how it goes.
 
Yes I finished the wiring with the Slee control box and the 12voltguy harness like @savirc did. The only issue we both ran into with the wiring instructions is that with the factory locker switch, the On position is actually Off and vice versa. It's kind of frustrating, but I don't have the first idea of how to change it up. I've used the locker for the past year or so on several wheeling trips and have never had any problems. Having a rear locker with front ATRAC is a hard setup to beat. I've shocked a lot of people with what it can do as is (and it's a Lexus not even a Land Cruiser :) )

As far as wiring, I did draw up a chart on which wires go to where, so I'll have to dig around and see if I can find it. Good luck this weekend, keep us posted how it goes.

Tell me about that! Mine is only a humble 98 LX with no ATRAC but I have already surprised a few local modified wrangler guys :cool:

As for the wiring, my dash does have the icon for rear diff but the a it about it. I looked and there is not wiring for the factory Locker ECU under the right hand kick panel. Oddly tho, there is a spare connector under the left hand dash panel (where mirror adjustment switch is). It looks like this. Could it be the plug for a factory locking switch?
 
20190709_155856.jpg
20190709_155851.jpg
 
Tell me about that! Mine is only a humble 98 LX with no ATRAC but I have already surprised a few local modified wrangler guys :cool:

As for the wiring, my dash does have the icon for rear diff but the a it about it. I looked and there is not wiring for the factory Locker ECU under the right hand kick panel. Oddly tho, there is a spare connector under the left hand dash panel (where mirror adjustment switch is). It looks like this. Could it be the plug for a factory locking switch?
So I did not wire up the light that illuminates on the dash. I don’t know where to tap into that, but if you figure it out I’d love to know!
 
So I did not wire up the light that illuminates on the dash. I don’t know where to tap into that, but if you figure it out I’d love to know!
I am back at this. I decided to get the the low range folks complete harness and am now trying to figure out how to route it.
Did you cut a new hole in the firewall for the harness?
 
I ended up knocking out rubber cap right in the driver's footwell and running the cables through it. Let me know if you want a pic of it.
 
I’m doing a 99 locked axle into an 06 LX. I’m also swapping out the front diff with an Eaton locker with the correct gear ratio and the 99 axle. If I’m NOT using a stock switch to activate the rear locker, can I end up just using the Slee e-locker control circuit board? Splice into the rear axle wiring and then connect it all to the aftermarket switch? Did I miss something I’m not getting a wiring harness from somewhere?
 
I’m doing a 99 locked axle into an 06 LX. I’m also swapping out the front diff with an Eaton locker with the correct gear ratio and the 99 axle. If I’m NOT using a stock switch to activate the rear locker, can I end up just using the Slee e-locker control circuit board? Splice into the rear axle wiring and then connect it all to the aftermarket switch? Did I miss something I’m not getting a wiring harness from somewhere?
Yes, that should work. The slee circuit only needs a 12v feed to activate the rear factory locker. Once you throw ON your ftermarket switch, the Slee board will feed 12 v to the locker motor, until the locker sensor indicates that it is engaged. At that point, the circuit board will automatically cut off the power to the locker leaving it engaged.
When you throw your switch off, the Slee board will retract the locker.

If you aren't planning to use the Toyota rotary tool, then I would suggest looking into the low range off road harness. That makes it all plug n play and requires no splicing, etc.

If you haven't already purchased the slee locker board, I can sell mine to you, I just never ended up using it.
 
If you aren't planning to use the Toyota rotary tool, then I would suggest looking into the low range off road harness. That makes it all plug n play and requires no splicing, etc.

If you haven't already purchased the slee locker board, I can sell mine to you, I just never ended up using it.
I’m not sure what you mean by “Toyota rotary tool”
Also the 99 axle has some kind of wire harness on it. It pretty long and ends with two big plugs and two smaller plugs branch off of it in the middle. I’m not sure if I can splice into that or If I have to go from closer to the axle.
how much would you sell your harness for if it will work with what I got?
 
I’m not sure what you mean by “Toyota rotary tool”
Also the 99 axle has some kind of wire harness on it. It pretty long and ends with two big plugs and two smaller plugs branch off of it in the middle. I’m not sure if I can splice into that or If I have to go from closer to the axle.
how much would you sell your harness for if it will work with what I got?
Sorry, typing on phone sucks! I meant if you are not planning to use the Toyota rotary switch, then just buy something off the shelf that comes pre-wired to plug into your locker on one end and then terminates into a flip switch on the other end.

If your locker comes with a wire harness, you will see that there are two plugs going into the rear locker: 1 larger plug operates the locker motor, 2 smaller plug (one 2 wires) goes to the "transfer-switch". This second pair actually provides 12v once the locker is fully locked and can be used to sense when to stop providing current to the locker itself.
Here's a picture of the transfer switch:
Diff Lock Indicator.PNG


Now, if you want to use Slee locking CPU, then you will want to cut off the harness at some point and then splice it into the Slee board as described in the instructions below. The orange cables from the Slee circuit board connect to the rotary switch. @saucebox has also wired this in his truck, I am sure he can share some insights too!


20210129_183250.jpg


Toyota E-locker Slee CPU.jpg



@sleeoffroad is great in answering any questions you may have.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom