99 100 series rear locker in High range? (1 Viewer)

[akcruzers]

I know that the 80 series were able to do the 7 pin thing but what about the 100's? Can someone point me to info on a rewire to operate the rear locker on a 99 while in high range?

TIA,
G

 

[robbie]

The pin 7 mod was really about not haveing the center diff locked while in low range. I do beleive you have a center diff lock switch and a rotary switch. I have not played that much with the 100 rear locker to see if you can lock the rear diff with the center diff lock switch on. I would think this would be possiable unless Toyota put a different Program in the diff lock computer. So have you tried to lock the center first, then lock the rear witht the rotary switch? if not try that first. later robbie

 

[Augie]

I forgot how to do it. Its pretty simple to do and only take 10-20 min. You need to cut one wire and splice it to other wire. I have some digital picture of it but could not find it at this time. The controller are located next to the glove box. You need drop the glove box.

 

[akcruzers]

The pin 7 mod was really about not haveing the center diff locked while in low range. I do beleive you have a center diff lock switch and a rotary switch. I have not played that much with the 100 rear locker to see if you can lock the rear diff with the center diff lock switch on. I would think this would be possiable unless Toyota put a different Program in the diff lock computer. So have you tried to lock the center first, then lock the rear witht the rotary switch? if not try that first. later robbie

The rear locker supposedly only engages when in LOW range and center locked. I have heard that its pretty simple to change, just dont know were to get the straight skinny on this. Maybe i'll call Cristo.

THX,
G

 

[akcruzers]

I forgot how to do it. Its pretty simple to do and only take 10-20 min. You need to cut one wire and splice it to other wire. I have some digital picture of it but could not find it at this time. The controller are located next to the glove box. You need drop the glove box.

Augie,
If you run across the pics and info I would apreceate it. Up here i't nice to be able to drive with just the rear locked at highway speed in the winter.

THX
G

 

[CruisenSurfin]

I know there is no snow in east texas so i have no experience in it. But isn't bad to lock your diffs in snow, especially while driving fast?

Jesse

 

[CruisinGA]

I don't have much experience in snow either, but i've heard it said many times that lockers in snow don't mix, can cause loss of control vs loss of forward motion.

 

[CruisenSurfin]

Thats what I was thinking. Something about if you are unlocked one wheel will keep you from sliding sideways while the other wheel will drive you. But if you are locked the back end will try to slide sideways.

Jesse

 

[Augie]

Locker on snow are good to get unstuck but very dangerous for control. That is a very bad idea to use at highway speed. The reason I did mine are just for fun. I been trying to find the picture but somehow missplaced it in my HD.

 

[Augie]

Here are the picture

 

[Auggies'Blu]

If somebody has some experience with this, can U please help clear this up?

I will also be driving in some serious snow in Central New York this year! Even after reading "Diffs for Dummies", I'm still not too sure about how to use the diffs in snow, on the highway.

Thanks again, in advance.

 

[akcruzers]

I don't have much experience in snow either, but i've heard it said many times that lockers in snow don't mix, can cause loss of control vs loss of forward motion.

That is true under certain conditions. I have been driving on alaskan ice and snow for 25 years. I rarely use 4 wheel drive unless the roads are really bad. I drive by feel of the vehicle in contact with the roadway. I have driven locked and unlocked axles on ice and snow for a long time. There are conditions where a rear locked axle is just fine and is a serious help. It has to do with driving in these condidtions all of the time and being intimatly familiar with the roadway conditions.

With that said, I like a rear locked in high option.

Later,
G

 

[bcripe]

I always use the rear dif lock after I get stuck/cant go any further. Use the center lock when driving in the ice/slop.

I also lived in AK for a lot of years. After the first snow I would always go find an unplowed parking lot or stretch of empty road and play with the car to figure out what it would do. Get going pretty fast and try to spin out, work the brakes, spin donuts, 2wd, 4wd (hi and low), center locked, unlocked, rear dif locked, unlocked. Just get familiar with your LC. The biggest surprise will often be the brakes. On really slick roads, you will have no brakes.

 

[Augie]

Deep snow the locker would help traction but if you are talking highway driving when snowing and using locker you would spin out of control very easy.

 

[akcruzers]

Deep snow the locker would help traction but if you are talking highway driving when snowing and using locker you would spin out of control very easy.

I respectfully disagree for the reasons I peviously posted.. It has a lot to to with experiance and feel for the road and vehicle.

In my line of work I tend to see A LOT of accidents. Many in the winter months where people tend to put their vehicle (which ever brand it may be) in 4 wheel drive/all wheel drive and attempt to drive as they would in the summer, thinking that the 4 wheel drive will allow them to do so without incident. Unfortunantly many have paid the ultimate price for doing so.

Anyway this has gotton way off topic. Does anyone know how to over ride the "LOW/REAR LOCK" problem I have?

Safe driving to you all this winter,
G

 

[Auggies'Blu]

I always use the rear dif lock after I get stuck/cant go any further. Use the center lock when driving in the ice/slop.

I also lived in AK for a lot of years. After the first snow I would always go find an unplowed parking lot or stretch of empty road and play with the car to figure out what it would do. Get going pretty fast and try to spin out, work the brakes, spin donuts, 2wd, 4wd (hi and low), center locked, unlocked, rear dif locked, unlocked. Just get familiar with your LC. The biggest surprise will often be the brakes. On really slick roads, you will have no brakes.

I apologize for staying on this, but I really would like to know more about doing just that:
experimenting, driving at different speeds with rear &/or center diffs locked/unlocked. I'm especially concerned about damaging the diffs by driving at higher speeds than are safe, mechanically speaking, for the diffs!

Thanks again.

 

[bcripe]

Sorry AKcruizer for going off your topic again... aggies, as long as there is snow or ice on the road where your experimenting you wont damage anything at all. Even on pavement I think it would be hard to really damage anything. Prolonged use is another thing. Just make sure there isnt anything around because your TLC will steer and handle differently.

BC

 

[fj55-100]

Dissagree on a 100 if the center diff is locked on pavement it will cause rapid failure of the front diff ,,,, see it all the time, the detail shop wipes down the dash and hits the swich and somehowe nobdy notices the lamp lit or the pull on the wheel,, next thing i am putting in a new diff,,,,good for me bad for cust,,,
above pic shows it all for what you need to do ,, only thing to add is to remove pin #10 from the connecter , the one for the speed signal, not necessary

 

[bcripe]

I stand corrected. How long do you think it takes until the front diff is damaged on pavement? Seems like thats pretty weak?

 

[fj55-100]

Moast are done for in under 100 mi---------
when they go there is not much left to rebuild.