Builds 97 on 40s Expo Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It would help stop the wheel leaning outward when the swing out is closed, but wouldn't stop it moving toward the body.
It might also create a rattle.

I think you've built it now,, just run it as is and see if you're happy
 
  • Like
Reactions: RFB
I dont think the outcome would be enough improvement to be worth the trouble and effort.

I think you'd benefit more from putting another kickout off your tire mount to the main beam towards the solid mounted dual shear spindle. It'll spread the tire load/forces out and also focus it on the the more rigid end of the swing out to help resist twisting and wiggle. Plus symmetry, i like symmetry. lol

C9D51621-53C6-4D57-A242-D769B487CE8C.webp
 
Last edited:
Interior build is coming along. This is how far I am as of this morning. Still lots of little finished touches to add, and many picture to show. The list goes on and on of the cool stuff I built into this.

• Water heater with temp monitor
• Running water
• Sink (drains outside)
• Solar charge monitoring (soon to be 200-300w of solar on roof)
• 19” TV (with over air/ 700gig movie drive and flush mounted hdmi hookup)
• 1000w inverter (with flush mounted button start)
• Shore power
• Usbs/12v
• co2 monitor
• Bed with gas struts to lift up
• Lots of storage

17CBA88A-FA70-4AE2-A9B4-CD6D7E6FECCF.webp
 
Interior build is coming along. This is how far I am as of this morning. Still lots of little finished touches to add, and many picture to show. The list goes on and on of the cool stuff I built into this.

• Water heater with temp monitor
• Running water
• Sink (drains outside)
• Solar charge monitoring (soon to be 200-300w of solar on roof)
• 19” TV (with over air/ 700gig movie drive and flush mounted hdmi hookup)
• 1000w inverter (with flush mounted button start)
• Shore power
• Usbs/12v
• co2 monitor
• Bed with gas struts to lift up
• Lots of storage

View attachment 1628308
Okay I need to ask... Are you going to live full time in this thing?? haha
 
Okay I need to ask... Are you going to live full time in this thing?? haha

Lol that’s the plan....at least for several months traveling around. I Have a month long Mexico trip planned for the end of August, and a several month long journey planned summer 2019 through Canada/Alaska.
 
Friggin love your build!
 
better remove the tv during your mexico trip...or someone will do it for you! Love this thing man. great work. I always keep any eye out for you driving around...

also the co monitor is a good idea...
 
Lookin good, lots of clearance there. Try not to grind off your welds even if you think they suck, embrace the booger welds @RFB :worms:;)
Lol that was then NOW they are sweet LOL
 
Lol that’s the plan....at least for several months traveling around. I Have a month long Mexico trip planned for the end of August, and a several month long journey planned summer 2019 through Canada/Alaska.
yea thats a plan, let me know if you need another wingman Im always down to roll out.
 
My truck is now linked!

Did it in three days, so I don’t have to many process pictures, but the end result is pretty awesome. I chose to keep the stock steering geometry and coils/shocks because I do daily my rig. Also didn’t want the body roll associated with coil-overs.

I used 1.25” Barnes4wd joints and brackets exclusively. All links are 2” .25 DOM. The links are dead level at ride height, so I have little to no brake dive/torque lift. Body roll has increased, but feels more controlled now. Just need to finish up grinding the front of the old mounts off and get some custom brake lines made, but other than that it is good to go! For quite a while this project seemed really daunting, but turned out not to be so bad. A 230v welder helped with that too. Now a picture!

CA39B9E1-786D-4FEC-95C8-2169B9166FF6.webp


Running 12” travel shocks, dobinsons 4” flexi coils, and front bumps extended 1.75”
 
Thanks! Are you suggesting do y-link setup? I don’t want to do hi steer because then I have to mess with the panard. I also know there are some side effects of a y link setup.

Yeah I hear you. Can't really do one without the other and your panhard relocation options are limited if you keep the coils.
 
That's actually more reason to correct the steering geometry :) But nice work, saw your pics on IG :cheers:
I disagree and on my 80 axle I didnt mess with stock steering geometry. More important than a flat track bar and drag link is a track bar and drag link that aren't fighting each other w/ respect to lateral displacement. The OEM setup is surprisingly safe in that regard. Once you start changing those things, getting it slightly wrong could have really annoying consequences for bump steer.

@ExpoMax - can you post your actual geometry? I'm in favor of open sourcing the geometry for others to be able to follow suit down the road.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom