'97 80 Unlocked/Unmolested (1 Viewer)

[yosemitesamiam]

Awesome thanks

 

[Spokruiser]

No problem.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

May hold off for a bit. Have to do some convincing on my end still (wife) of why a 200,000 mile Toyota is better than a 160,000 mile dodge. She. Doesn't. Get it.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

May hold off for a bit. Have to do some convincing on my end still (wife) of why a 200,000 mile Toyota is better than a 160,000 mile dodge. She. Doesn't. Get it.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

Thought I was over this hurdle...ugggg. Guess I just need to find fewer miles

 

[Spokruiser]

It can be done, just be patient and always keep an eye out! Let me know if you still want to come and take a look.

 

[jwilliams]

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/5134169300.html
95' with diff lock, 196K miles for $10k. It's under 200k haha

 

[yosemitesamiam]

LOL. So been doing some math...checked my oil change log on the Dakota...I've driven 2200 miles in 4 months. Spokane is slow roll...35mph mostly at best...60 on the highway (70 outside the city). I've owned powerful vehicles in the past...I'm kinda over it. Starting to think maybe the 3FE rigs are better for my purpose (and not having head gasket or hidden heater hose issues). If I could find one with 4 wheel disc brakes that would be rad...but I know beggars can't be choosers.

I keep looking. I keep trying to convince the wife. She isn't convinced. There is the "I'm a truck guy" argument...but I've used my truck as a truck to do truck things once in 3 years...there is the "Toyotas are more expensive to fix" argument...to which I said...maybe...if they break...and there is the "such high miles" argument...to which I stated...yeah...but 150K Dodge miles = 400K Toyota miles...and I'm a Dodge guy!

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/5134169300.html
95' with diff lock, 196K miles for $10k. It's under 200k haha

 

[Rusco]

I paid $4500 for my 94, 220k miles, locked, five years ago from a customer as I sold my shop, so I had a pretty good idea of the history. It was from AZ originally, then Texas (not the coast) so it's pretty clean, and the PO was a private pilot, so he maintained it like it was his plane. Only drawback was previous light collision repair, so we call it the Onion (lots of different white layers) and it needed a head gasket (oil in the coolant). It's been a good vehicle, oil consumption right in line with what I expected, still good at 270k miles.
Keep shopping, they're out there. My neighbor just bought a green 97 out of Houston, no lockers, 65k or thereabouts miles, for $13,000, so there's the other end of the spectrum.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

Good intel. Appreciated. I know miles on the ODO is an inverse arrangement with my back pocket as well. I need balance in my life.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

My wife's biggest concern, and one I tend to ignore too often, is the possibility of having a car payment and then having something major break right away or at any point during the payment process. I know it's a possibility with anything purchased used...but really, do major components really ever break on these? I don't hear of too many guys needing transmissions or engines...or thousands of dollars worth of front end work done.

 

[Rusco]

I think about the most "common" known high-dollar issue with the FZJ is the head gasket, unless you get into a rat that's been around the world a couple of times without an oil change.

 

[BILT4ME]

On my old Chevy truck, repairs were typically $200. On these, a similar repair is $1000.

Front axle rebuild will run about $1000 if you do it correctly. Folks on here claim it can be done for $280. Didn't happen for me.

Rear axle rebuild will run about $200. That's about right.

Brakes (Pads, Rotors) will run about $500 just for the parts. Calipers are about $100 each.

Head gasket repair (1FZ) is in the $2000-$3000 range.

Once the axles have been rebuilt, then it's maintenance to go through them every 60K and repack bearings. About $200-$300 then. Then engine is oil changes and the occasional air filter change. Oil changes are $30 if you do it yourself.

A complete engine rebuild is in the $6000 range (1FZ).

Tires (set of 4) can range from $500 to $2000 depending on size and type.

Transmission service will run about $100 every couple of years.

Brakes need attention about every 30K.

You can ALWAYS spend way more on things depending on your level of addiction and how much you are willing to do. The nice thing with these are that they are under powered enough that stuff rarely breaks unless you wheel it hard. I DD mine and the most expensive part is the gas. Absolute max of 16 MPG, typically in the 12 MPG range.

If any of this seems like too much, don't do it.

As far as major repairs, most of us will see one engine rebuild, multiple axle rebuilds, lots of brake pads/rotors, and incredible amounts of gasoline during the life of our trucks. Assuming , of course that you don;t wheel hard and don;t get in an accident, and don;t swap a V8, don;t install a Slee 6" lift, and run 44" Super Swampers.

Good Luck!

 

[yosemitesamiam]

Great info! No Slee 6", 44s and V8s for me. LOL. Tires are tires...I'm not a rock crawling individual...your average AT or MT is good enough for my use...back country off roads in Oregon/Washington/Idaho and Montana are mostly what I'm after...go to and get to wherever I want so I can camp with a son or two at a time. (33s or 35s)

I've been the son of mechanic all my life...my dad owns an auto repair facility...so I grew up with an impact gun in my hands and a grease under my nails. Hardest thing I ever did in a driveway was a balljoint on a 99 Ford Expedition...stuff is getting big at that point...

Points of interest (first off...how old a chevy?...if it was 70s, I get it!)

...why do people claim to be able to do front axle rebuilds for $280? Did you need CVs? What was the predicament...and how often do these need rebuilt? Or is it only when they break? How many miles are guys seeing in your mind? Also, how about knuckle rebuilds since we are on the topic of the front end?

...rear I'm sure is the same...probably a 200,000 mile part?

...OUCH on the head gasket...but I've also done head gaskets myself on a few vehicles...so I'd probably be inclined to do this myself...call me crazy now.

...Brakes...wOw. $500 must be mostly rotor cost. That's an old Chevy truck price done at a shop. How many miles do the rotors usually go/sets of pads? Brakes are typically cheap until a rotor gets grooved/warped/etc.

Thanks guys...I'm guessing would be responsible of me to purchase a 2 year aftermarket warranty from the bank just in case the head gasket or that hidden heater hose goes if I can't find one with record of either being done recently.

-Sam

On my old Checvy truck, repairs were typically $200. On these, a similar repair is $1000.

Front axle rebuild will run about $1000 if you do it correctly. Folks on here claim it can be done for $280. Didn't happen for me.

Rear axle rebuild will run about $200. That's about right.

Brakes (Pads, Rotors) will run about $500 just for the parts. Calipers are about $100 each.

Head gasket repair (1FZ) is in the $2000-$3000 range.

Once the axles have been rebuilt, then it's maintenance to go through them every 60K and repack bearings. About $200-$300 then. Then engine is oil changes and the occasional air filter change. Oil changes are $30 if you do it yourself.

A complete engine rebuild is in the $6000 range (1FZ).

Tires (set of 4) can range from $500 to $2000 depending on size and type.

Transmission service will run about $100 every couple of years.

Brakes need attention about every 30K.

You can ALWAYS spend way more on things depending on your level of addiction and how much you are willing to do. The nice thing with these are that they are under powered enough that stuff rarely breaks unless you wheel it hard. I DD mine and the most expensive part is the gas. Absolute max of 16 MPG, typically in the 12 MPG range.

If any of this seems like too much, don't do it.

As far as major repairs, most of us will see one engine rebuild, multiple axle rebuilds, lots of brake pads/rotors, and incredible amounts of gasoline during the life of our trucks. Assuming , of course that you don;t wheel hard and don;t get in an accident, and don;t swap a V8, don;t install a Slee 6" lift, and run 44" Super Swampers.

Good Luck!

 

[Rusco]

It's funny about the brakes: I clearly recall new-ish LX450 owners giving us (dealer techs and other scv personnel) holy what-for about brake life, as in "Why the #=@& are the brakes already worn out? This piece of (very heavy automotive art) only has 5,000 miles on it! I haven't even changed the oil yet!"
I have to say that in 25k miles, I'm on my third set of front pads, second set of rear, all stock so partly my fault.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

That is alarming....yes, the rigs are heavy...but they aren't THAT heavy...6,000 lbs stock? That's Suburban/Expedition heavy...and I don't think the brakes are horribly undersized...but maybe I'm wrong there. Do you use your trans and gear down frequently? What kind of terrain do you drive, and at what speeds?

Thanks!

It's funny about the brakes: I clearly recall new-ish LX450 owners giving us (dealer techs and other scv personnel) holy what-for about brake life, as in "Why the #=@& are the brakes already worn out? This piece of (very heavy automotive art) only has 5,000 miles on it! I haven't even changed the oil yet!"
I have to say that in 25k miles, I'm on my third set of front pads, second set of rear, all stock so partly my fault.

 

[BILT4ME]

Great info! No Slee 6", 44s and V8s for me. LOL. Tires are tires...I'm not a rock crawling individual...your average AT or MT is good enough for my use...back country off roads in Oregon/Washington/Idaho and Montana are mostly what I'm after...go to and get to wherever I want so I can camp with a son or two at a time. (33s or 35s)

I've been the son of mechanic all my life...my dad owns an auto repair facility...so I grew up with an impact gun in my hands and a grease under my nails. Hardest thing I ever did in a driveway was a balljoint on a 99 Ford Expedition...stuff is getting big at that point...

Points of interest (first off...how old a chevy?...if it was 70s, I get it!)

...why do people claim to be able to do front axle rebuilds for $280? Did you need CVs? What was the predicament...and how often do these need rebuilt? Or is it only when they break? How many miles are guys seeing in your mind? Also, how about knuckle rebuilds since we are on the topic of the front end?

...rear I'm sure is the same...probably a 200,000 mile part?

...OUCH on the head gasket...but I've also done head gaskets myself on a few vehicles...so I'd probably be inclined to do this myself...call me crazy now.

...Brakes...wOw. $500 must be mostly rotor cost. That's an old Chevy truck price done at a shop. How many miles do the rotors usually go/sets of pads? Brakes are typically cheap until a rotor gets grooved/warped/etc.

Thanks guys...I'm guessing would be responsible of me to purchase a 2 year aftermarket warranty from the bank just in case the head gasket or that hidden heater hose goes if I can't find one with record of either being done recently.

-Sam

Chevy truck was a 69 Chev. K10, custom built, 350 bored 0.060, ported, polished, balanced (about 375 HP), 4sp w/ granny low, Rockwell T221 T-case, Dana 44 front w/ Eaton Limited Slip, GM Corporate 12 bolt rear w/ Eaton LS, BFG Mud Terrain 33-12.50-15, Double -tube (pipe) roll bar that doubled as an aux. air tank. I built in high school from a 1960 frame, a '70 engine, 60 trans & case, '79 front and rear axles and put a 69 body on it with '68 front clip. My brother's truck was a factory super heavy duty 1968 Chev. K20 w/ 292 6 cyl, 4 sp. There were (3) leafs on each spring. Each leaf was 1/2" thick! The same as big trucks! Rode like a lumber wagon!

The "definition" of an axle rebuild can vary. My truck had 196K when I got it. I knew how bad of shape it was in. No rust, but really bad mechanically. MY axle rebuild was RCV axles/birfields, all new seals, wheel bearings, trunnion bearings, steering arm studs/cones/nuts, spindle nuts/washers, moly grease, 85W-90, Lucas RedNTacky2. To some, an axle rebuild is new seals and gaskets only. The kit for those is about $280. I did NOT rebuild my third member in front or rear.

My truck was NOT maintained by the PO. It needed (s) everything: Front axle rebuild, rear axle rebuild, brake pads, rotors, calipers, radiator, all coolant hoses, oil pump seal, valve cover seal, front main seal, distrib. seal, PS hoses, all TRE, tires, wiper motor, broken DS mirror, window master switch.
I have a ways to go, but I still DD my truck.
*Fuel tank leak
*Evap Canister system rebuild/replace
*New leather in front seats/console
*ALL rubber window/door seals and window runs
*Rear heater hoses

I think the FSM states 60K for service on the axles. That is typically a re-seal and bearing re-pack. Factory birfields and about $1200 PER SIDE. I got BOTH side with complete axle shaft/bifrfield ass'y from Slee (RCV brand) for about $900 I did NOT do the Chromoly because I don't wheel my truck unless I have to.

I will not have to do the trunnion bearing replacement again because I maintain my truck. Probably thee same with wheel bearings, but I WILL have to service/repack them. Since the front rotors are inboard rather than outboard, the knuckles are easily services at the intervals that coincide with the brake replacement, ASSUMING that you need to resurface or replace a rotor. Rotors are known to warp on these and the pads needs replaced about every 25K, depending on driving style and conditions. I have not made it to a replacement stage yet. (223K now) I got my rotors and pads (Power Stop) thru Summit Racing. Price them and you'll see.

Third members: Rebuild as necessary based on play. Many are not touched for 500K. Weakness is the front R&P in reverse with wheels turned tends to break the teeth off the ring.

HG is that there is a known issue (1FZ-FE) with the FIRST HG change because the original gasket had a design flaw. The REVISION solved the problem. Mine is proof, as my HG was replaced at 145K by PO. My radiator EXPLODED at 221K and the HG is still good. (proven by Blackstone) The biggest cost of the HG replace is having the head rebuilt. The actual procedure is easy-ish.

Take the $200-$600 "warranty" money and put it in an account for when something happens. I drove my truck fro 21K with all these problems and it did OK. I chose to fix it all when the radiator exploded. (Also a known issue on the 95-97 due to # of cycles)

I have dumped about $6000 into my truck since I got it (not including gas and insurance). $1350 of that is tires. The rest is parts. I do OEM where important and practical.

These trucks LIKE OEM parts and the aftermarket stuff is usually crap, not like the old Chevy's aftermarket stuff.

This website is the BEST and everyone here is helpful and not here to spout a bunch of crap and they give details about what nd how to do and the long -term folks try to make sure that the erroneous information gets cleaned up so we all kind of police ourselves (except in chat).

Some days I like to be long-winded....... (most days)

Read the "cost of ownership" in the FAQ section. If you have to finance the truck, this may not be the one for you. I crack a joke that every time something breaks that it's another $1000. So far, it hasn't missed that mark by much......

 

[DSRTRDR]

if you need to take out a loan to afford this truck, you can't afford it; not the maintenance and not the repairs, either - sorry to be so blunt, but it's the truth

 

[yosemitesamiam]

Makes sense. The maintenance requirements and stories I'm interested in the most long term. I realize stuff breaks sometimes. And I appreciate the honest advice and financing opinion. I have plenty to think about. Thanks guys!

 

[Rusco]

Sam- I do around-town driving in a flat part of Texas with some light trail use and easy wheeling thrown in. Nothing that I would consider "severe". Longer trips are usually to Galveston, central Texas or southern Oklahoma, with the occasional jaunt to Missouri or Arkansas.
When I pulled my Toy-based buggy on a very light trailer I made, gross weight 3200lbs, I used a set of pads in one year, or about 6k miles. I don't even drive this thing every day- normally I'm in a Miata for to and from work, since the Miata is a hoot to drive and gets ridiculously good fuel mileage. I've been driving the cruiser lately because the AC in the Miata sucks.
The issue is weight of the vehicle and the relatively small swept area of the brakes combining to create high wear.