'97 80 Unlocked/Unmolested (1 Viewer)

[yosemitesamiam]

Been reading too...sounds like getting the bias toward the rear is an issue as well. Likes to stop on the fronts.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Front axle rebuild will run about $1000 if you do it correctly. Folks on here claim it can be done for $280. Didn't happen for me. ...

... MY axle rebuild was RCV axles/birfields, all new seals, wheel bearings, trunnion bearings, steering arm studs/cones/nuts, spindle nuts/washers, moly grease, 85W-90, Lucas RedNTacky2. To some, an axle rebuild is new seals and gaskets only. The kit for those is about $280. I did NOT rebuild my third member in front or rear. ...

So, yours was clapped out, unmaintained, POS, and you're inferring that everyone one needs to spend $1000 on their knuckle reseal job or it's not done correctly? I beg to differ, have done a ton of them for about half of that, including labor, out the door. Many of them have 200-300K miles, locked, 37" tires and wheeled often. Most of those still have the original, birfs, axles, spindles, wheel bearings, etc and are solid, reliable. If doing it yourself, can often be done "correctly" for ~$200.

Rear axle rebuild will run about $200. That's about right....

I would say that is a bit light, just the pinion and carrier bearings are more than that? If you're just talking about rear wheel bearing repack, that is about right with labor.

Brakes (Pads, Rotors) will run about $500 just for the parts. Calipers are about $100 each.

I guess if your stuff is clapped out, we rarely replace rotors or calipers, so brake service is pretty cheap.

Transmission service will run about $100 every couple of years.

With labor, maybe?

... These trucks LIKE OEM parts and the aftermarket stuff is usually crap, not like the old Chevy's aftermarket stuff. ...

Depending on how you shop. For somethings there is good aftermarket parts available and many of the OEM suppliers now sell in the aftermarket. So a smart shopper can save significant cash and still use quality parts, equal to dealer.

 

[BILT4ME]

So, yours was clapped out, unmaintained, POS, and you're inferring that everyone one needs to spend $1000 on their knuckle reseal job or it's not done correctly? I beg to differ, have done a ton of them for about half of that, including labor, out the door. Many of them have 200-300K miles, locked, 37" tires and wheeled often. Most of those still have the original, birfs, axles, spindles, wheel bearings, etc and are solid, reliable. If doing it yourself, can often be done "correctly" for ~$200.

BILT4ME:
I don't know how to do multi-quote, so bear with me.
Yes, mine was clapped out. My truck has piss-poor maintenance by the PO. If you read a later post, I clarify that. It comes down to interpretation of "rebuild". No third member rebuild costs in mine.

TRU:
I would say that is a bit light, just the pinion and carrier bearings are more than that? If you're just talking about rear wheel bearing repack, that is about right with labor.

BILT4ME:
I am referring to a wheel bearing replacement and new seals, NOT a including a third member rebuild.

TRU:
I guess if your stuff is clapped out, we rarely replace rotors or calipers, so brake service is pretty cheap.

BILT4ME:
Yes, again, my stuff was clapped out. Rotors were horribly warped, pads were shot, calipers were leaking, TRE's shot, Steering arm studs falling out (3 out of 4 on one side)

TRU:
With labor, maybe?

BILT4ME:
No, actual cost of oil. I did the flush with 20 QT of oil which is about $5 per QT of trans oil retail. ALL labor was done by me in ALL instances. I don;t pay shops to do stuff unless it is machine work, body, or paint. I am not a shop, I do this because I can and enjoy it. I do not do it for additional revenue, but I would if the opportunity arises.

TRU:
Depending on how you shop. For somethings there is good aftermarket parts available and many of the OEM suppliers now sell in the aftermarket. So a smart shopper can save significant cash and still use quality parts, equal to dealer.

SEE ABOVE PART OF THE QUOTE TO FOLLOW ALL OF THIS. I DON'T KNOW HOW TO MULTI-QUOTE AND I'M NOT YELLING, JUST GETTING YOUR ATTENTION.
BILT4ME:
I agree. Some things should be dealer, some things should be aftermarket. I worked behind the counter in auto parts and I understand the difference between brands and types and I have done enough wrench turning to know what wears out sooner and what doesn't. I am at an age where I don't have time to research like I used to. If it's close (within a few % points) and it's between OEM and aftermarket, I will go OEM with TOYOTA. That does NOT hold true with other brands.

Brakes: Power Stop rotors and pads from Summit Racing
Calipers: NAPA Eclipse Reman
Axles/Birfs: RCV from Slee
F/R Axle Seal Kits w/ WB (Koyo): CruiserOutfitters
Radiator: OEM (CDan)
Hoses: OEM (CDan)
Coolant: Red
Tires: GY Duratracs Discount Tire
Rear Hatch Struts: McMaster Carr

I'm sure others can get better pricing if they search long enough and there are cheaper options out there. If i had a "buddy" that knew someone that knew someone that could get a great discount, yeah I could probably do better. I've done those deals. Too much PITA to make it worth it. Also, mind you, I don't exactly live in the Mecca of Land Cruisers. There are quite a few here, but they are strictly soccer mom and snooty aholes that own and drive them and CERTAINLY don't do their own work. Hell, that's how I got mine in the FIRST place! Win for me!

I knew my truck was a POS when I bought it. I got it CHEAP. I knew how much I was going to have to put into it. It was an opportunity and I took it.

It's all about interpretation: "I did NOT have sexual relations with that woman!"

 

[yosemitesamiam]

Define "kneepads"

At any rate. Let's take this from another angle shall we? No repairs...everything running way it should...just maintenance.

Ok with that in mind, how much per year so you spend just maintaining your rigs, and how many miles per year do you drive?

Thanks all!!! Been a 10 year journey for me. I don't let go easy.

 

[BILT4ME]

Define "kneepads"

At any rate. Let's take this from another angle shall we? No repairs...everything running way it should...just maintenance.

Ok with that in mind, how much per year so you spend just maintaining your rigs, and how many miles per year do you drive?

Thanks all!!! Been a 10 year journey for me. I don't let go easy.

I assume $1300/year in maintenance for my Toyota LC. I drive on average 12K/ year per vehicle. AFTER I get all the crap the PO didn't do, that's about where I should land. That's oil changes, trans oil changes, tire wear, brake wear, axle services, coolant changes based on standard intervals and my experience of what I have done on other vehicles on intevals. My other vehicles I average about $1000/ year. All have 165K+ miles.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

10-11¢ per mile, including tires? s*** that ain't bad at all.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

10-11¢ per mile, including tires? s*** that ain't bad at all.

 

[Comet]

if you need to take out a loan to afford this truck, you can't afford it; not the maintenance and not the repairs, either - sorry to be so blunt, but it's the truth

I was just thinking the same thing. Slee has a cost of ownership article on their website. Buying a 20 year old vehicle of unknown history has its inherent risks. I purchased sight unseen for a thousand more than the owner paid for it. It was a risk I was willing to take and afford at the time. Base lining the fluids and all the preventative replacement parts add up quickly. Research and read as much as you can before jumping in to the water. It is a brilliantly over engineered platform that is outdated by today's standards. I love being outdated.

 

[BILT4ME]

That does NOT include insurance or gas. Those two alone add up to about $0.38/mile. So, cost of ownership with normal operation in the $0.50/ mile range.

 

[DSRTRDR]

10-11¢ per mile, including tires? s*** that ain't bad at all.

hell, no - where are you getting that number from ?

our 80 sees at best 5000 miles a year if that much, the LX definitely sees less than 3000

insurance on each is close to $1000/year - and I haven't even bought gas or any parts yet - that's $0.2/mile on the 80 to start with, and $0.33 on the LX - without having driven either of them out of their respective garage yet . . .

 

[yosemitesamiam]

hell, no - where are you getting that number from ?

our 80 sees at best 5000 miles a year if that much, the LX definitely sees less than 3000

insurance on each is close to $1000/year - and I haven't even bought gas or any parts yet - that's $0.2/mile on the 80 to start with, and $0.33 on the LX - without having driven either of them out of their respective garage yet . . .

That was just maintenance including tires averaged.

 

[Wookie95]

Found mine on CL. 144k on the clock non-locked, clean body, with some rips on the steering wheel and drivers seat. Paid 5k for it. I added an ARB locker to my rear, front coming soon. Ive read that the ARB set up is a lot stronger in a constant use situation. Also went Heavy duty compressor so I can go the on-board-air route soon. I have a fully capable rig with lowish miles for under 9k. (Sliders ,bumpers)

 

[Wookie95]

Found mine on CL. 144k on the clock non-locked, clean body, with some rips on the steering wheel and drivers seat. Paid 5k for it. I added an ARB locker to my rear, front coming soon. Ive read that the ARB set up is a lot stronger in a constant use situation. Also went Heavy duty compressor so I can go the on-board-air route soon. I have a fully capable rig with lowish miles for under 9k. (Sliders ,bumpers)

 

[DSRTRDR]

That was just maintenance including tires averaged.

nope, tires will cost you extra

 

[BILT4ME]

nope, tires will cost you extra

Nope. It's all about how many miles you drive each year. I DD mine and that's where he got the numbers. I have calculated mine based on real costs and average mileage I drive each year (12K for each vehicle) (as listed in a previous post here), oil changes on an average of 4000 miles, trans fluid changed every 2 years, coolant changed every 2 years, tires every 5 years, F/R axle repack/reseal every 5 years. Again, this does NOT include gas or insurance or major repairs (engine rebuild).

For MY use, the truck runs about $0.50/mile for everything, but i drive 12K a year. Your costs would be higher than that, mostly due to the insurance.

I hit pretty average about $1200-$1400/ year in repair costs with this and about $1000 with each of my other vehicles. Believe me, I analyze the s*** out of this to show my wife how owning these old cars is WAY less expensive and easier on the cash flow than a new car and a payment....except when all the vehicle need tires and major repairs in the SAME year.

 

[yosemitesamiam]

I'm feeling that now. I was able to offset tires by one winter, however...the suburban has two O2s offline, and a few other sensory issues (7 codes in all) and the Dakota is just falling apart. Broken window regulator. TPS, IAC issues hopefully also causing transmission issues (trans in this is known to have sensor pack issues causing slipping and other drivability issues), plus upper ball joints, shocks, and all rubber pieces in sway bars, end links, etc have to all be converted to poly. Spokane uses de-icer rather than salt in winter. Instead of eating metal it eats rubber. When all is said and done, I hope it doesn't need further trans service ($600-$2,000).

At that point, should have traded in on a LC.