'96 Window Motor suggestions? Mine keep fizzling out. (1 Viewer)

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Oct 10, 2021
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Location
Ashland, Oregon
The window motors all slowed way down in the last several years so I replaced all 4 of them with rebuilt motors and I replaced all the rubber. The new rubber still seems stiff and is probably over-taxing the motors.... and the replacement motors suck! Two have died already with the windows stuck in the up position. I would have rather have hand-crank windows but I don't think that is a replacement option.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
 
Speaking from experience having done the very thing that I doled out, the new OEM window motors do.not.suck.

Ashland, nice area!
Good to know that you've "been there" with this problem. Is there some sort of discounted source for these that you know of? Thanks! We like it very much here in Ashland. Been here?
 
IME Dorman motors work, seem reliable, however when comparing their noise level to the remaining original window lift motors, they are louder. The most recent Dorman I installed in the left rear postion is much louder, but it works. The noise is more noticeable when the engine is off or when idling, otherwise I don't hear it.

The question however is why do they make more noise? One guess is that they may be weaker (or looser tolerances??) than the OEM motors as the noise gets louder as the glass gets up near the top (closing).
 
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I'll grab one from them... the driver's one for now. My son just moved to Seattle. He got an engineering job in Kent. Hey loves it ip there.
Good idea if replacing one at a time. Driver front def gets the most use. Then pass. Then rears for me.
 
Another option, AISIN makes a motor-regulator combo for the front doors, sold at Rockauto. RPAT-035 and RPAT-036, $84 and $74 respectively.

I have a set but haven't installed them yet. FWIW the design of the motor to regulator connection looks a bit different than the OEM motor and regulator.. Been meaning to dis-mount the motor from the regulator to see just how it is different, if at all. I purchased them originally just for the motors but I'm not sure yet if they will interface with an OEM regulator.

Either way, a good deal for both regulator and motor.

They're made in Taiwan, but that's better than Chy nah at least.


 
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Another option, AISIN makes a motor-regulator combo for the front doors, sold at Rockauto. RPAT-035 and RPAT-036, $84 and $74 respectively.

I have a set but haven't installed them yet. FWIW the drive
looks a bit different than the OEM motor. Been meaning to dismount the motor from the regulator to see just how it is different, if at all. I purchased them originally just for the motors but I'm not sure yet if they will interface with an OEM regulator.

Either way, a good deal for both regulator and motor.

They're made in Taiwan, but that's better than Chy nah at least.


Thanks... I will check it out for the other windows...
 
There’s also this thread with a list of interchangeable parts from other models. I was looking recently for my right rear - you can save $$ when the product says Corolla instead of land cruiser 😜

 
I had to check my receipts folder. I've got front window regulators and motors sold by 'autoandart' on eBay. SKU 6552-3000LR, paid $88 back in 2017. I believe that I arrived at these via this post by @RhinoFZJ80 (his link was to Amazon, but the seller name is the same). The brand is listed as Brock.

In the rear, I have VDO window motors from RockAuto, $20 each in 2018.

All of them still work well. I'm in the Willamette valley, which is constantly wet from about November through May. Even with the new motors and window channel runs in the rear, the windows would still bog down and almost quit in the winter. 3M *Dry* silicone lubricant (#08897) fixed that. The rear windows are always a problem because of the full-length channel runs and the extremely long wire circuits going to the motors.
 
There’s also this thread with a list of interchangeable parts from other models. I was looking recently for my right rear - you can save $$ when the product says Corolla instead of land cruiser 😜

Well that's pretty funny!! Thanks for the tip!
 
3M *Dry* silicone lubricant (#08897) fixed that.
Well well well my fellow Oregonian. How interesting! My problem was exactly the same. In winter I literally had to "help" the windows up with my hands sometimes. Where exactly are you putting this spray? I'm going to try and get some today!!!
 
Well well well my fellow Oregonian. How interesting! My problem was exactly the same. In winter I literally had to "help" the windows up with my hands sometimes. Where exactly are you putting this spray? I'm going to try and get some today!!!
There's a thread here somewhere explaining it, which is where I found out about it, but I can't find that thread now.

I just rolled my windows down and sprayed right into the rubber channel run front and back. I did this on brand new window channel runs. If yours have been on awhile, it's probably a good idea to remove them and wash them clean first.
 
There's a thread here somewhere explaining it, which is where I found out about it, but I can't find that thread now.

I just rolled my windows down and sprayed right into the rubber channel run front and back. I did this on brand new window channel runs. If yours have been on awhile, it's probably a good idea to remove them and wash them clean first.

We should do a side-by-side comparison but before it gets cold and the windows decide to slowdown again.
 
There’s also this thread with a list of interchangeable parts from other models. I was looking recently for my right rear - you can save $$ when the product says Corolla instead of land cruiser 😜

I noticed recently that my right rear isn't working. There's so little occasion to lower windows here that I'm not sure it's worth bothering with.
 
I noticed recently that my right rear isn't working. There's so little occasion to lower windows here that I'm not sure it's worth bothering with.
Same window for me, and same reason for not making it a priority!

I did a quick test with a probe to see if power was getting to the plug in the first place - no light - then compared to a working window and same thing on its plug. Haven’t looked into the reason for that, but no big deal. Driver & local switch are both good, I’m sure my motor is just dead.
 

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