96 new to me triple locked (1 Viewer)

[spmarfatia]

Hi All,

I just acquired a 96 triple locked with 250k miles. I also have a 98 4runner limited(with rear locking diff.) and a 2000 100 series(with center locking diff.).

When I try to engage Front and rear lockers, in low range, the lights blink and never goes solid. I also see the center diff light doesn't lit up when I put it in low range, however, I can feel the center diff is locked when I go back and forth. when I am turning the ignition on, before I crank, I see all dash lights come on, including front and rear diff lights, but center diff light doesn't come on at that time also.

So, wanted to see from the members here, what the issue could be?

the truck was highway/suburb truck up until now. never seen even gravel before. so, don't think anyone ever even turned lock knob before.

some initial research points that center diff has to be locked and properly indicated as such, before front and rear will lock.

- so is center diff lock not indicating properly, by light not coming, causing the other two not to lock? (I can feel strongly that central diff is locked when I put in low.) which way does it indicate of it being locked for allowing others to then go ahead?
- or front/rear diff lock is separate issue? or how to go about confirming that?

not that front/rear locks are daily need of mine, but would like them to be operational since the truck has them.

Thanks,
Sam

 

[cahill]

Sounds like your center diff light is blown and needs to be replaced for the light to turn on. Not sure that the light needs to work to engage the front or rear lockers but sounds like you need to find some dirt, activate the CDL then turn on the rear locker and do figure of 8s in the dirt until it activates. Once it does than lock the front as well and do the same. The reason to do figure of eights is to create a difference in wheel spin between the wheels on each axle to get the locker to engage.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Each of the lock actuators has ball bearing switch next to it which detects if the diff is locked or open. The center diff might still lock but if the ball bearing switch is dirty or stuck then it will not send the trigger to the system which will prevent the other diffs from locking.

It is pretty easy to test. Find the center diff actuator and locate the ball bearing switch next to it. Disconnect the harness and insert a staple or something similar on the harness side to short the 2 wires. Now try to activate the axle lockers.

If it works then remove the ball bearing switch and give it a good clean. If my memory is working you need a 27mm socket to remove it.
The FSM has a procedure to test the switch once removed.

 

[spmarfatia]

Thanks for responses guys. I spent little effort already in turning the car, and gravel to create wheel spin, with no luck. I will try it again a little more.

I will also try to short central diff harness to test if that allows others to then go ahead.

I think my CDL light is definitely blown. it never comes on, either before starting the car, or when I put it in low range. However, I can feel it engaged when I test. normally, if it is working, then I wouldn't worry about the light if it isn't contributing to other issues.

also from a history of front and rear lockers never been used, and the truck is north east truck, what other possibilities comes to mind to go about figuring this out?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[Ncrunner4x4]

How is the rust on the truck being NE Northeast? Thinking about possible corrosion on the electrical, harness on outside of the axle.

 

[cbmontgo]

The center diff lock has to positively engage before the lockers will engage. Could very well be transfer case actuator switch. Easy part to replace and there’s a cheaper OEM alternative available. Check out this thread.

Replacement for 84222-12010 switch

As you know the 84222-12010 fails pretty often on our trucks. Its located on the transfer case, as well as the lockers, and causes the indicator on the dash to blink even when they're working. I recently had the one on the rear locker fail on mine and wanted a cheaper alternative than 60 bucks...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[spmarfatia]

How is the rust on the truck being NE Northeast? Thinking about possible corrosion on the electrical, harness on outside of the axle.

rust is not too bad. my other two trucks are also mostly north east, and although they do have some rust, the wiring is holding up pretty good, on all of them.

when I put it in low range, which is when central diff is locked, I can feel the difference in the drive train. when I further engage rear, I don't feel any difference, and same when I further engage front, still don't feel any difference. (in addition FF/RR lights keep blinking. so I am fairly confident they haven't engaged.)

What is the best way to rule out if even when lights are blinking, they haven't in fact engaged?

Thanks.

 

[ppc]

I think my CDL light is definitely blown. it never comes on, either before starting the car, or when I put it in low range. However, I can feel it engaged when I test. normally, if it is working, then I wouldn't worry about the light if it isn't contributing to other issues.

When the center locks both the CDL and ABS dash lights should illuminate. If neither illuminate and you can feel the engagement then the most likely is the sensor switch on the front of the transfer case not working.

 

[spmarfatia]

When the center locks both the CDL and ABS dash lights should illuminate. If neither illuminate and you can feel the engagement then the most likely is the censor switch on the front of the transfer case not working.

I think the CDL light is blown altogether, and I don't remember seeing ABS light come up when I switched to Low range.

I can check again putting in the low range and if ABS doesn't come up, then start with the censor switch.

I also want to have the truck gone over, anyone know any good Land Cruiser mechanic around New York city area?

Thanks.

 

[saraujo]

The center diff lock has to positively engage before the lockers will engage. Could very well be transfer case actuator switch. Easy part to replace and there’s a cheaper OEM alternative available. Check out this thread.

Replacement for 84222-12010 switch

As you know the 84222-12010 fails pretty often on our trucks. Its located on the transfer case, as well as the lockers, and causes the indicator on the dash to blink even when they're working. I recently had the one on the rear locker fail on mine and wanted a cheaper alternative than 60 bucks...

forum.ih8mud.com

I just fixed this issue 2 weeks ago with the very same behavior on my 93' TLC CDL. It was this switch and now both my lockers are working like a champ, as tested last weekend!

Amazon product ASIN B00KTGWAEE
Excellent hands on video on how to replace and referenced part # as indicated in above amazon link:

Easy part to replace. But I do recommend getting a ratcheting 27mm wrench to get to this. Spraying PB blaster to loosen 24 hours prior works like a charm.

 

[cbmontgo]

I just fixed this issue 2 weeks ago with the very same behavior on my 93' TLC CDL. It was this switch and now both my lockers are working like a champ, as tested last weekend!

Amazon product ASIN B00KTGWAEE
Excellent hands on video on how to replace and referenced part # as indicated in above amazon link:

Easy part to replace. But I do recommend getting a ratcheting 27mm wrench to get to this. Spraying PB blaster to loosen 24 hours prior works like a charm.

Yep. That’s the part.

In fact, the alternative OEM switch was around $18.

 

[cobrasteen]

This same thing happened to me when I went to purchase my '97 LX450 at 242k. The guy never used the diffs and when I tried to lock the CD, it just kept blinking. Its interesting you are saying you feel it locked. What I did was I went under the vehicle to where the transfer case is and pulled the switch. Pretty easy to find, see the post below

Center diff lock - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/center-diff-lock.944796/post-10525333

It was pretty gunked up from over 20 years of not being used lol. So i cleaned it with some degreaser and actuated it a few times by pushing the ball in. I reinstalled it and it still wouldnt lock until i rolled the vehicle back and forth putting it in reverse and drive. I still couldnt get the rear or fronts to lock when I purchased the vehicle.

When i got home, I tested further. I went to a gravel road and cycled the front and rears to try to get them to lock. I drove around on the gravel a bit and got the fronts to lock and then finally got the rears to lock after a few minutes of cycling them. Sometimes you need some distance so that way the teeth can line up and get into place, some say the rear locker needs the vehicle at an angle as well.

I think you may be in a similar position to me. If the above doesnt work, I'd recommend cleaning the switches first before replacing, and hitting a dirt/sand/gravel road before moving further into any other troubleshooting.

as an FYI (in case you're unaware): Dont lock your vehicle on pavement, especially the Front and Rears.

 

[cobrasteen]

Also do you have an FSM? If not, get one!

Wits' End Downloadable Files - https://absolute-wits-end.com/downloads/

There you will find the FSM and EWD. Once open, Repair Manual >> Drivetrain >> Suspension and Axle >> Differential Locking System, SA-101 to 106 goes over On Vehicle Inspection of the diff locking system, might be worth it to run through as an exercise.

I also have a hard copy of the 97 LX450 manual which is a bit different but I can shoot over some pics of the info in there if requested. (I think its organized a bit better imo)

 

[saraujo]

One thing I forgot to mention in my case, is that I did use a multimeter to test my old CD sensor before replacing and it was dead, thus my need to replace it.

 

[spmarfatia]

This same thing happened to me when I went to purchase my '97 LX450 at 242k. The guy never used the diffs and when I tried to lock the CD, it just kept blinking. Its interesting you are saying you feel it locked. What I did was I went under the vehicle to where the transfer case is and pulled the switch. Pretty easy to find, see the post below

Center diff lock - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/center-diff-lock.944796/post-10525333

It was pretty gunked up from over 20 years of not being used lol. So i cleaned it with some degreaser and actuated it a few times by pushing the ball in. I reinstalled it and it still wouldnt lock until i rolled the vehicle back and forth putting it in reverse and drive. I still couldnt get the rear or fronts to lock when I purchased the vehicle.

When i got home, I tested further. I went to a gravel road and cycled the front and rears to try to get them to lock. I drove around on the gravel a bit and got the fronts to lock and then finally got the rears to lock after a few minutes of cycling them. Sometimes you need some distance so that way the teeth can line up and get into place, some say the rear locker needs the vehicle at an angle as well.

I think you may be in a similar position to me. If the above doesnt work, I'd recommend cleaning the switches first before replacing, and hitting a dirt/sand/gravel road before moving further into any other troubleshooting.

as an FYI (in case you're unaware): Dont lock your vehicle on pavement, especially the Front and Rears.

difference with my situation is the CDL light never comes on, either when I put it in LOW or even before ignition. only one of that bulb blown, in the entire dash, (other than the "D" gear indicator light, which is common.) on a car that was never probably put in low range before, I think it may not be the bulb. now, I don't know what gets checked pre-ignition for CDL light to come on other than just the direct connection to the bulb, if anyone know that? I thought the pre-ignition lights to come on is to just show if all lights are in working order, and nothing more than that.

Given so many people had issues with RR-FF lockers not engaging that turned out to be nothing serious, other than switch or cleaning related, is very comforting to me. At least my dreams will get better, owning a FF-RR lockers cruiser, (hopefully working soon.) as in real life, like a lot of owners, I don't think I'll be in situations of needing them much! I remember having to use rear locker in my 4runner and CDL in my 100 series once or twice.. Although I do plan on going through this LC once and then shipping and keeping it out west for trips there. so hopefully it will see some real action. It was very annoying when my wrangler without any FF-RR lockers would get stuck a lot! (could be driver issues..lol)

 

[spmarfatia]

guys, thanks for lot of good ideas and info. really appreciate it. I feel good that I will have this sorted out with everyone's help!

I am going to start with the switch and cleaning first. Also really confirming if CDL is in fact is engaging, double check my feeling! (I don't want to count so much on it without further confirmation that CDL is engaging while light isn't coming up!)

I am going on a trip soon, so may not get to all ideas for a couple of weeks. but I will keep you guys posted on how it goes.

thanks, and keep the ideas and suggestions coming.

 

[spmarfatia]

Also do you have an FSM? If not, get one!

Wits' End Downloadable Files - https://absolute-wits-end.com/downloads/

There you will find the FSM and EWD. Once open, Repair Manual >> Drivetrain >> Suspension and Axle >> Differential Locking System, SA-101 to 106 goes over On Vehicle Inspection of the diff locking system, might be worth it to run through as an exercise.

I also have a hard copy of the 97 LX450 manual which is a bit different but I can shoot over some pics of the info in there if requested. (I think its organized a bit better imo)

Thank you.

I needed a copy of FSM. I will let you know if I need any details from your hard copy.

 

[VivaToy]

Here's the same part without the Toyota price. Amazon product ASIN B001KSCYCI

 

[speersix]

I had the same problem with my 97 LX450 neither front or rear locker would engage so I bought the

(Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch) and 27 mm wrench off amazon and in about 5 minutes the problem was solved. Hardest part was getting that huge wrench to have any movement clearance.​

Thank you all for the help,

 

[spmarfatia]

I had the same problem with my 97 LX450 neither front or rear locker would engage so I bought the

(Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch) and 27 mm wrench off amazon and in about 5 minutes the problem was solved. Hardest part was getting that huge wrench to have any movement clearance.​

Thank you all for the help,

Thanks for the info. I haven't got around to it yet, still dealing with family vacation. but hope to get to it soon.