Build '95 4runner TDI swap

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I will look for the rear seat access to the tank. I have a frame mount pump that I was going to use but an in tank pump would be better. I have a Holley fuel regulator that I can use also. I’m not sure what is best.

Do you have more information about the Chevy/ford pump so I can look into it. Like years and models?

Thanks.
 
EP158 is max 14psi. This is the one I used. I believe this is around a 1990 gmc with a 6.2.

I'm not a huge fan of an in tank pump for a PD engine unless you reuse the original fuel cooler or add one, the return diesel is hot, engine running temp hot and I feel it could eventually damage an in tank pump.

You'll have to delete the existing fuel pump in the tank and install a fuel pickup screen or sock to use frame mounted pump.

Jimbote from the TDI forums uses an in tank pump in his yota, I think he mentions the part number or application if you want to go down the search rabbit hole of his ALH head on a BHW block Frankenstein Toyota build thread.

I did not install a fuel cooler. I always fill up with 3-5 gallons left in the tank. I did have my fuel gauge stop reading completely full. It would read 3/4 tank full and then drop as usual once it hit 3/4 tank.

Was this due to heat or the likelihood of a 1987 vintage fuel sending unit? I have a cheap Amazon one in there now...time will tell. No issues with near 100 degrees heat daily for several weeks all summer..
 
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I have to drop the tank to get the fuel pump out. I have an access panel in the back that helps with disconnecting the wiring and fuel lines but not for removing the pump. I am still looking into running a fuel pressure regulator and a cooler and using the stock pump for now. My external pump option is a carter rotary pump on the frame.
 
I ran a carter for about a 9 months. It was extremely loud and and began to leak. While it never gave issues I'm not ok with fuel leaks. Hopefully you'll have better luck.

Another perk of the AC Delco pump is it's free flowing, I'm not sure of the Carter. Should it die I can still drive home. It's likely I'd never notice unless I do something to lose prime in the tandem pump.
 
I really dont want to have to drop the tank but I am not seeing a way around it. I like the access of an external pump but the lack of leaking and less noise of an internal pump. I may start with the pressure regulator that I have and leave everything else??

I did remove the restriction flap from the fuel filler tube. I just pounded it out with an appropriately sized pipe and hammer and then welded up the holes from the spot welds.
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I pulled the tank and am planning on an external pump. I need to get a pre-pump filter, post pump filter, and a water separator. I am open to any advice you have. I want less expensive but good and common.

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For the fuel pickup I used a walbro fuel pickup screen, it's a saucer shape. You can also use a fuel pickup screen like that if a 2001 Ford excursion 7.3. I used a section of metal fuel tubing and fuel hose rated for in tank submersion to replace the original fuel pump.

For my fuel filter I reused the VW OEM fuel filter assembly. I modified the bracket to mount about where the original yota fuel filter assembly mounted.

There are better fuel filter set ups but the PD diesels do just fine on our US diesel with their factory set up. It came free with the donor Passat.
 
I was planning on putting the fuel filter and pump on the frame rail where the Toyota filter is. I’m assuming that the pump should be close to the tank.
 
I mounted both the cater and now the AC Delco on the body directly above the tank inside the fuel pump access door. I'd probably find a place a little more accessible on your set up, but yes that way it doesn't have too far to prime.
 
I just put a piece of 3/8 copper tubing in place of the pump. The sock is held in a rubber piece at the bottom of the fixture and it is held by a piece of hose and hose clamp. I really didint want to drop the tank but I think it is the best way to deal with my situation.

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I put in the fuel pedal today. I forgot to take pictures during assembly and I'm not planning on taking it apart any time soon so here are some pictures after install.

I built a bracket that bolts to the original pedal bracket and the new pedal bolts on to that.
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I'm in limbo waiting for hose parts and adapters. I ordered some hoses for the radiator and they didn't fit right so I am ordering more. Tomorrow I am going to try to start sorting out the wiring. I'm not great at anything but wiring has me intimidated. I believe that the engine wiring and the rest of the car wiring is separate but I am having a hard time wrapping my little brain around how to make the chassis run separate from the stand alone engine wiring. I received my factory repair manual but I dont think that the directly address this situation.
 
You can build the TDI harness such that it just needs battery power and ignition switch power. Find the appropriate switched circuit that powered the original Toyota ECU, use that to run the TDI harness and you'll be good to go. Everything else can stay Toyota. In my case I went through the engine bay and, using the factory wiring diagrams, removed all wiring associated with the original engine.
 
AirheadNut said:
You can build the TDI harness such that it just needs battery power and ignition switch power. Find the appropriate switched circuit that powered the original Toyota ECU, use that to run the TDI harness and you'll be good to go. Everything else can stay Toyota. In my case I went through the engine bay and, using the factory wiring diagrams, removed all wiring associated with the original engine.
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This is kinda my plan but I'm not confident. Once I dig in I'm sure it will start to make sense. I am trying to keep this as Toyota as possible and just change engines.

Right now I feel like I got the easy stuff out of the way and I'm struggling with minor hose angles and size differences between things like 8mm and 5/16th hose. I hope there isn't a metric vs imperial voltage difference. :confused:
 
Take it slow, be methodical, pay close attention to how the factory harnesses are assembled. I used to be scared of wiring but now find it quite relaxing to build and modify harnesses. These old systems are actually pretty simple and straightforward once you dig in to them.

Get a good pair of wire strippers, a good ratcheting crimp tool and plenty of quality terminals (I prefer heat shrink crimp terminals to solder joints).
 
I am blowing out sprinkler systems for my neighbors today so hopefully I will get started tonight.

What hose systems do you guys use. AN, push lock, PTFE, regular hose and a hose clamp? I like the look of the black braided hose and it seems very durable plus with a little practice I could make my own power steering hoses. I guess I could just use the black braided hose for the fashion and hose clamps.
 
I used the black braided XRP power steering hose from AN Plumbing on mine. Super easy to assemble hoses with their hose ends, much better to work with than the braided stainless hose.
 
There isnt a size difference between 8mm and 5/16 hose lol. 3/8 and 10mm hose...also close enough to not matter.

Other than wires for your gauges, alternator exciter, AC power button (might not work with ac amplifier Toyota system, I have documented how I got around this) and starter button you don't need any engine harness wires in the engine bay. Marking these with tape when removing as well as what wires go to your horn, lights, possible brake reservoir sensor will be about all that's left from the factory yota harness in the bay.

You can leave all this in place but it won't be as clean, tucking the unused wires out of sight or as much out of sight as possible. This is easier but unsightly to most.

Your VW ECU pin outs can be had searching or requesting them on the TDI forums. Get an uncut piece of plywood and start running wires one at a time.

Or pay someone like fast-forward automotive for a stand alone harness that comes with a wiring breakdown on what goes where. He'll also get you converters to run your tach and cruise control. There are other vendors that can do it. He can also do the tune for more power, a tune to make it 5 speed if yours came from an automatic (that will rev hang between gears) and you need the immobilizer deleted or she'll start for a second then die.

Your ignition power to the ECU needs to be powered through your battery idiot light or similar diode or it won't turn off.
 
For power steering hose, high pressure side i used speedway motors for reusable fittings. A banjo with nut on the VW pump and Japanese npt on the yota steering box. The hose is cut to fit.
 
I do have a harness from fast forward. I'm guessing that its plug and play but I havent looked at it and dont know where all of the sensors are. I have been planning this swap for about 2 years and slowly buying parts I knew I would need but I the wiring is still in a pile.
 
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