88 FJ62 Rear Gear & Locker Install

[PolkLandbruiser]

at least, completed

sorry for the delay in play-by-play, but this past week has been quite hectice...to say the least, ended up with many unforseen problems, but woke up at 6am to finish and drive the cruiser to work by 10am. did it, done.

I'll post the pics i did get, unfortunately 2 of my digital cameras are on the outs for some reason...mud, water, who knows.

first big problem, the pinion: ended up having to sand the pinion where the small bearing fits due to it not fitting. The rear or large p.bearing gets pressed one, but the smaller one should simply be snug, but removable. I tore a strip of fine grit sandpaper and spent about 5 minutes on it to make it work.

2nd problem: the crush sleeve i received in the new kit was too long! ended up using the old, original sleeve instead. couldn't figure out for the life of me why the bearing still wasnt sliding on...until i matched up the sleeves. New one was 1" longer than original, so you can see the problem presented.

3rd: the 4.88 is quite larger than the 4.11, so if you're installing a locker (i installed the lockright), preassemble it inside the differential housing before attaching the new ring gear. This proved a beast...i tried and tried, then ended up removing the whole 3rd member and dissassembling the pieces the install the locker.

Be sure to reuse all washers within the housing if reusing the same spider gears, or if installing a locker, resuse the side axle washers that attach to the back of the couplers for the locker.

only regret is not purchasing the 5.29s...going with the 4.88s, i still had to grind the ring gear to fit the crosspin (ended up getting an entirely new crosspin as well since mine was beat up...this can make a huge difference on the install!) and had to work to make it all fit. The extra workwith the 5.29s would have been well worth it.
I'm running 37 ssr swampers now, plan on putting on 38s, since the cruiser has cleared 39.5 swampers before. oh yeah, don't prolong anything like i always do...just replace everything when going into a project like this (ie axle bearings).

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

more specifics

oh yeah, just fyi, i used all four small shims on the pinion and only 2 of the 8large shims i received...worked out perfect.

 

[89s rule]

Pic man pics I am getting mine done next week, I hope, place a $500+ prder to Kurt yesterday and everythign should be here early next week. I found a guy at church who says he can help with the r&p install! SO I am excited about that! Should only be 1 day down time, for him, but we will see if I can get the front and rear axles rebuilt at the same time!

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

way late pics

here they are
IMG]http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1134/4279739/8994487/231486298.jpg[/IMG]

here's everything layed out in the G-rage, diff, axle shafts, cleanin em up.

My brother shaving the teeth off the ring gear...this was odd, since they're brand new, but he was anxious to do such a thing to the newly purchased gears. Worked great...should have gotten the 5.13s...would have just been more grinding.

All the new parts layed out with the locker.

Pinion gear with new bearing...had to get it pressed on at the machine shop for $3.

My good buddy luis examining the lock right locker before the install. In the cup are the four tiny springs that hold it all in place. Don't lose!

After installing everything for the umpteenth time, I had to uninstall to reassembly the locker in the differential before installing it. Oh well...live and learn...but just because the 4.88 was that much bigger than the 4.11s. With the 4.11s, you can install the locker after the differential carrier within the pumpkin. this is key advice! adhere closely if performing this!

 

[89s rule]

Thanks for giving us some pics. I finished mine in January. I need tp post my pics as well. (Although I just did the locker myself and had the gears set-up by a friend from church.)

A dremel works great for grinding on the gears. Its precise and with what you have to grind on, I wanted the least amount removed possible.

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

I was going to use my dremel, but just took too long...my 4" angle grinder worked like a charm i thought though. I only grinded on about 3 of the teeth and the crosspin still ended up snug fitting past them, so was a success anyhow.
When i figured out i had to assemble the locker in the diff carrier outside of the differential, it was interesting attempting to keep it all together w/o problem while i tried to connect the axle shafts with the C clips and reassemble everything else.
I sure wish i would have went with the 5.13s though. I know my powerplant is lacking, so if i find that missing hp and restore it, maybe all will be ok.

 

[lowtideride]

I think you made the right choice, 5.29s are a little too weak. Plus if I remember you dont have a wrap bar on that rig. So, keeping the strengh of the 4.88s was the right move...


I suprised the size difference between the 3.73 and 4.56's...When I get a chance I am swapping back to 4.11s and will do my gearing before there. Aside from the h41 thats already in there. Nice job dude and Ill see ya on the trail soon. You making it to Tellico?

 

[Heartworm]

Check those studs!

Polklandbruiser: Be sure to check the threads on the studs of your axle housing BEFORE you heave the third member up there with the gasket and silicone. Some of the threads on mine were damaged by rocks. The nuts came off OK but would not go back on. Get that fixed while it is easy.

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

Heartworm:
Luckily, the nuts came off well, and after some WD40 and good cleaning with a cloth, went back on easily too. Been driving with it now for two months and not a leak or problem yet, but thanks for looking out.
I've probably driven a lot less rocks than you and a lot more mud, so less thrashing occurred on mine.

AL:
Excuse my ignorance, but by "wrap bar" you mean sway bar? ladder bar? please elaborate, bcuz i don't know what you mean.
I'm trying to understand the size difference, bcuz when comparing the 4.88s to the 4.11s, they stock gears were dwarfed, by diameter, girth, and weight.
ARe you going to drop down to a 35 when you go back to 4.11s??? I'm not real impressed with the 4.88s though, seems just a miniscule upgrade to the stockers...? I imagine my engine's not at peak performance, so maybe after it's running like a top, I can better compare.

 

[lowtideride]

A wrap bar goes from your axle tube to your frame it stops axle wrap and pinion breakage.

Nope keeping the same size tires I have now. I have a granny first in my tranny, I am using the h41, the change from a 4.56 to a 4.11 wont be that great, and Ill just have to invest in a rock box.

Are you using you torque converter method at all. keeping your foot on the gas and one on the brake and keeping the rpms around 1100 it spools your torque converter and causes your crawl ratio to go from 35 to 70.....

 

[Tapage]

Interesting that most mates like grind the Ring more than the cross pin..

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Interesting that most mates like grind the Ring more than the cross pin..

I would personally never gring the cross-shaft... there is alot more strenth to be comprimised when taking one side of the cross-shaft off. Its somewhat commong in other diff installs to shave the cross-shaft, but I have NEVER heard of single "grind" related failure on gears 4.88 or numerically lower (ie 4.56 & 4.88). I have heard of a isolated issue with a set of 5.29's that makes me a bit leary to this day to recommend 5.29's in a SF axle. That being said I will sell them if the customer wants them

 

[Tapage]

I would personally never gring the cross-shaft... there is alot more strenth to be comprimised when taking one side of the cross-shaft off. Its somewhat commong in other diff installs to shave the cross-shaft, but I have NEVER heard of single "grind" related failure on gears 4.88 or numerically lower (ie 4.56 & 4.88). I have heard of a isolated issue with a set of 5.29's that makes me a bit leary to this day to recommend 5.29's in a SF axle. That being said I will sell them if the customer wants them

Actually with ARB I thought no very lot's of forces aplied to the cross pin to make me think a lots in this ..

After 4 - 5 years with my ARB I have no issues to report and make me a little happy keep my ring totaly safe ..

 

[89s rule]

When I installed my 4.88's I had to grind 1 tooth a little then a second barely. Main reason I used a dremel was so I could take off small amounts at a time. (I didnt want to mess anything up. This stuff is to expensive!)

I didnt use any silicone on my diff seals. Just ordered up the stock gaskets from Kurt. I havent had a leak yet. Except forgetting to snug down the drain plug when I first got everythign back together.

4.88's didnt seem to make a huge difference, but I am still at 33's and I can tell that I can actually accelerate and my overdrive is actually useable. I will be on 34's or 35's when ever I find a deal on them. Then everything should be just like I wanted it.

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

Great notion about the torque converter...i've practiced this sparingly, but was warned against it for reasons dealing with the A440s compromising longevity and tendency to overheat. You are right about the effect of it though.

I went with experienced advice on the ring grinding over the crosspin, because obviously the crosspin i feel has to maintain an extreme amount of integrity to keep things intact. I actually even replaced my crosspin with a brand new one during the install due to slight damage and wear on the old to avoid any future issues.

 

[PPFJ60]

Carrier bearings

I just installed 4:88's in the front without issue but the rear is causing me some concern. The problem is that I can pull the carrier bearings off by hand. I believe they should be held in place with more force. Anyone else seen this problem?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I just installed 4:88's in the front without issue but the rear is causing me some concern. The problem is that I can pull the carrier bearings off by hand. I believe they should be held in place with more force. Anyone else seen this problem?

Did the bearings surface look scored? Possible that it was spinning a bearing all this time. I would replace the carrier. Verify bearing ID's are correct too... Should be 45mm or 50mm depending on the year and type of carrier.

 

[REKCUT]

nice info

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

gears

The clearencing for x/pin has been a long time thing every cruiser owner has questioned when installing 4.88 or 5.29 gears. After doing this personally over 100 times and overseeing it probably a 1000 times, I can say it is ok and very common. This is not only on cruiser diffs, but also on many other differentials. Some ford gears require grinding just to install a 3.73 or 4.10! Out of the thousands of ring & pinions I have installed, sold, etc, I have yet to see one break that has been ground properly. I have seen failures for plenty of other reasons though, so make sure you set them up right!

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

gears

I have seen many instances where a diff has failed due to a ground x/pin, but none when the ring gear was ground to clear the x/pin. On a side note, where in Panama are you? Panama is great.

Interesting that most mates like grind the Ring more than the cross pin..