88 FJ62 Rear Gear & Locker Install

[agent orange]

yes the pinion bearings

Ok, so to refine my previous question, would it work to grind/hone the old pinion bearing so you could slip it on and off by hand during the setup process, or would you absolutely have to use the new bearing? I dont yet have a shop press and while i might be able to get the bearing on without it i certainly couldnt get it off.

-Matt

 

[KLF]

BTW, why does your center pin have that rifling look to it? Mine didnt have that.

That's an ARB locker, not the stock carrier.

I personally don't like the shims under the outer race, like are supplied in the kits. Pounding the race in and out gets old, it's not as easy to do as pressing the bearing on and off, and you can use a setup bearing like I did to make it a LOT easier and faster. I'd rather use traditional pinion shims, that go under the bearing, next to the pinion gear.

If the old bearing is still in really good shape, then you can just use a small grinder to open up the inside a little bit so you can slide it on and off by hand. Smooth it with some emory paper. Works fine, at least it did for me on the times I did it.

 

[cruiser88]

Ok, so to refine my previous question, would it work to grind/hone the old pinion bearing so you could slip it on and off by hand during the setup process, or would you absolutely have to use the new bearing? I dont yet have a shop press and while i might be able to get the bearing on without it i certainly couldnt get it off.

-Matt

no dont do that.do you have a old race just laying around.a small one like off the front end that what i would try.stick the pinion in a vice.GENTLY find a race or something around the same size and gently tap it on.BUT IF YOUR NOT USED TO DOING anything at all like that im sure you can find somebody to do it for 20 bucks.you cant grind or hone a bearing at all my man.and your right you would never get the bearing off the pinion without tearing it up.i got mine on with a racer but i also got LUCKY

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

anybody

hey, free steaks and beer for anyone who's done one of the installs before if they come help me this weekend when I tackle it.
I rebuilt my entire transfer case, and i had never before worked on a tranny/tcase in my life! luck i'm sure, but everything worked great and still does. But i took 4 days!
Need to get the cruiser on the road (or off more likely) pronto and i am praying i can complete this in one day.
thanks to all for words of wisdom.

Kurt, where's my $$$??? Throw me a credit when i order the locker for the front.

 

[Pin_Head]

Ok, so to refine my previous question, would it work to grind/hone the old pinion bearing so you could slip it on and off by hand during the setup process, or would you absolutely have to use the new bearing? I dont yet have a shop press and while i might be able to get the bearing on without it i certainly couldnt get it off.

-Matt

One more time:

You don't remove the pinion bearing (or any other bearing) to set up a cruiser diff.

I would much rather remove the outer race than press the pinion bearing off. Changing the shim under the outer race is a piece of cake that can be accomplished with a hammer and a drift punch in 5 minutes.

 

[KLF]

You don't remove the pinion bearing (or any other bearing) to set up a cruiser diff.

Not according to the FSM. And that's not how I did it.

I would much rather remove the outer race than press the pinion bearing off. Changing the shim under the outer race is a piece of cake that can be accomplished with a hammer and a drift punch in 5 minutes.

Different strokes, I guess. I made a setup bearing, worked great.

 

[89s rule]

One more time:

You don't remove the pinion bearing (or any other bearing) to set up a cruiser diff.

I would much rather remove the outer race than press the pinion bearing off. Changing the shim under the outer race is a piece of cake that can be accomplished with a hammer and a drift punch in 5 minutes.

What if the 3rd member hasnt been rebuilt and approaching 200K miles? I am hoping to accomplish this as well if I can, so I will (have been) be following this thread closely!

I just do not want to spend the $500 on set-up. (Would much rather get the longs with that $!)

 

[lowtideride]

One more time:

You don't remove the pinion bearing (or any other bearing) to set up a cruiser diff.

I would much rather remove the outer race than press the pinion bearing off. Changing the shim under the outer race is a piece of cake that can be accomplished with a hammer and a drift punch in 5 minutes.

To adjust the pattern no.


But to install a new gear set, Youll have to install new pinion bearings..Carrier bearings you can leave but the pinion bearing is a must on a new gear setup.

Not hard to install if you can operate an oven and a refrigerator door.

 

[KLF]

But to install a new gear set, Youll have to install new pinion bearings..Carrier bearings you can leave but the pinion bearing is a must on a new gear setup.

Well, I have to disagree with this too.

When I regeared my front e-locker, it came out of a wrecked low-mile 80, so the bearings were still in perfect condition. I swapped them over to my new 4.88's, worked fine.

Sometimes it's all about having the right tools.

 

[lowtideride]

Well, I have to disagree with this too.

When I regeared my front e-locker, it came out of a wrecked low-mile 80, so the bearings were still in perfect condition. I swapped them over to my new 4.88's, worked fine.

Sometimes it's all about having the right tools.

Well, to take the time to press off an old bearing on a pinion to repress it on a new gear set up seems a little backwards to me...


...but from what I have seen and done... most of the time the bearing gets destroyed upon removal.

 

[KLF]

But see, that's what I mean about having the right tools. I have a 20-ton HF press and a nice OTC bearing splitter. Takes seconds to pop the bearing off the pinion, and it never gets damaged.

A new bearing is ~$60, so if I can re-use it, I do.

 

[cruiser88]

But see, that's what I mean about having the right tools. I have a 20-ton HF press and a nice OTC bearing splitter. Takes seconds to pop the bearing off the pinion, and it never gets damaged.

A new bearing is ~$60, so if I can re-use it, I do.

ass dont rub it in

 

[lowtideride]

Like I said most of them are destroyed....Not everyone has that kind of press laying around.

 

[KLF]

Sorry, I don't mean to be a jerk, just offering a different opinion and method. One thing I have learned with this hobby, there are often several ways to complete a project.

I'm a firm believer in having the right tools for the job. And I'm a tool junkie.

It's all good...

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

speaking of bearings

i planned on using the axle (outer) bearings again, had to save some $$$ somewhere in this project. As of thursday, had everything disassembled, axle shafts pulled, housing scrubbed and cleaned, inside and out along with all related parts. Rented a bearing pulling for the axles, removed the driver side just fine. But on the passenger side, tore that sucker to pieces! i was pissed...went to advance, they matched me up a pair through the OEM #s, had them to me Friday evening from Tennessee (sorry kurt, didn't think you could get em faster! )

Funny thing was, kurt had mentioned why not replace them anyhow when i purchased everything else! oh well, it's sat morn and after drinking till 3am, i'm hoppin on to reassemble everything. Hopefully it'll go as smooth as everything else has so far...that bearing going to hell really is a mild consequence for my usual dealings with the cruiser.
i'll post pics tonight or tomorrow.

 

[89s rule]

I hope you have been taking pics for us!!! My 4.88's are on thier way today, I need to call and get all my rebuild stuff. Where did you rent your bearing puller from? And which kind are you using?

 

[PolkLandbruiser]

details

i purchased all new bearings for the diff...one on on the case just fell off after taking it apart and i used some ingenuity to remove the other...had to have one bearing pressed on the pinion (large one) at a local shop for $3.
I've made some mistakes though, i'll document them thoroughly! need some backup to assist the install. will elaborate more soon.

all my stuff came from Kurt at cruiser outfitters, only 2 axle bearings came from advance auto.

 

[Pin_Head]

Not according to the FSM. And that's not how I did it.



Different strokes, I guess. I made a setup bearing, worked great.

Are you talking about a Dana axle FSM? That is the way that pinion depth is set on Dana axles, but not Land Cruisers.

The Toyota FSM shows that the pinion depth shim goes under the outer bearing race, which you can easily remove with a hammer and drift punch.

Here is what it looks like:

What if the 3rd member hasnt been rebuilt and approaching 200K miles? I am hoping to accomplish this as well if I can, so I will (have been) be following this thread closely!

I just do not want to spend the $500 on set-up. (Would much rather get the longs with that $!)

If you have 200K on the diff, you would want all new bearings. Once you press the bearings on the pinion and carrier, you don't have to remove them to set up the pinion depth, pinion preload, carrier preload or backlash. This is easier on Toyota than with Dana axles.

 

[KLF]

Are you talking about a Dana axle FSM? That is the way that pinion depth is set on Dana axles, but not Land Cruisers.

The Toyota FSM shows that the pinion depth shim goes under the outer bearing race, which you can easily remove with a hammer and drift punch.

Well, I don't know what FSM you are looking at, but since we are talking about re-gearing an FJ62 (which is my experience), I used the FSM from that model. On page SA-45 of the 1990 FJ62 FSM, it clearly shows using different thickness spacers between the bearing and the head of the pinion to set pinion depth. Take a look:

I also have a 1984 Body & Chassis manual, it is exactly the same.

When I bought my Yukon install kit, it came with a bunch of the shims that you are talking about. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to use them, but I didn't like them. I called the place where I bought it from (RockLogic4x4), they told me they don't use them. They told me about the trick to make a setup bearing, which I did, then I went down to the dealer and ordered a bunch of the spacers in different thicknesses for my diffs, they were cheap and now I have spares on hand for when I do other diffs.

Thats my story, and I'm sticking to it...

 

[Pin_Head]

OK.

I have a 1981 FSM and they only use the shims under the outer race. I guess they made a change some time between 81 and 84.

It is always good to get the full shim set as you will be sure to have the one you need.