'88 FJ62 Drivetrain Options Advice Please (2 Viewers)

[gregnash]

I wonder if the best metric(s) to begin such a comparison would be peak torque and peak hp curves. Then you could gear (tranny, diffs and wheels) based on what you want to use the vehicle for...

I bet there is the expertise here on MUD to gather this information

Here is the info I've run across here on MUD to date (they're not graphs, just numbers...and incomplete):

2F = 210 ft.lbs. @ 1800 rpm
3B = 166 ft.lbs. @ 2200 rpm
2H = 177 ft.lbs. @ 2000 rpm
1HZ = 206 ft. lbs. @ 2200 rpm
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2f-torque-curve-graph.145871/

1GR-FE = 266 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm

"The 1GR-FE is the 4.0 L (3956 cc) version, designed for longitudinal mounting in RWD and 4WD pickup applications. It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine

Putting together proper metrics you would have your 2F be your baseline item with graphical representation of all items; e.g. torque, hp, etc. with the modifications to the drivetrain as supplementary items. Seems crazy that the 2F makes more torque at approximately the same RPM as the 3B and 2H and even the 1HZ. Seems like only as you get to the much more modern engines do you find the torque curve start to rise earlier. The one concerning factor is the efficiency of the engine based on the items modified. Are you going to get better "efficiency" out of a modified truck with one engine vs. another? Then past that what is the cost benefit ratio for those changes? This is the same stuff that I do when building a new mtb, yeah going with the new SRAM 1x11 drivetrain would be AWESOME but the increased cost for new items like rear hub, cassette, specific drivetrain, etc. ends up adding up to a lot more than your standard 2x10 or 1x10 setup and then you really aren't gaining all the much gear ratio.