'88 4Runner SAS (1 Viewer)

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Mine has a big gouge in the side of it along with the drive shaft from a rock at Superlift.
 
Thanks. I remember the tires barking as I was going up. I tried to listen for that in your video, but just couldn't hear it there. Maybe the AC/DC drowned it out.
 
No big deal. I like the music, just remembered the tires chirping and the sound of metal on rocks.
 
Researched for building some drive shafts next, have to round up some materials.
Driveline - How to make a Square Shaft
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90517

Driveline - Heavy duty DIY Material
A toyota driveshaft end has a machined OD of 2.435".
2.5'' Sch. 40 pipe. is 2.875" OD x .203" thick which is almost 1/4'' wall and is a good fit for the toy yokes. You just have to use an endgrinder or the like to knock the seam down in the pipe. Using the pipe to retube is good for rear shafts or if you have links and don't need all the slip of a square shaft. (also slides on rocks better than square) This is a cheaper alternative to the strange sized 2 7/8" x 7/32" wall DOM tubing which can also be used for a DIY driveline.

 
Went the cheap route with my front extension. Just found some thick walled pipe with an inner diameter that was slightly larger than the outer diameter of the shaft. Cut her in half, sleeved and welded the larger in place. I was amazed at how thin the stock shaft is, the process made it much stronger. I even found that it was slightly twisted. I only did the front so I didn't worry about balance. However, I did run it at about 55 in 4HI and did not notice any extra vibration.
 
i read something the other day about using tractor PTO shaft, available at most tractor dealerships or tractor parts places. its really thick and big splined and should be able to handle the torque we put on them.
 
Yeah, we looked at that too. Round with 3 splines. You just have to make sure you get something that is rated high enough and remember that ag ratings are different from auto.
 
Bolted the fuel tank in the bed with some all thread rod and painted up the center consule. Welded in the used shock hoops and tested fitted the shocks.
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Looking good bud, is its driveable?
 
Yep it stops and runs better with fresh gas instead of the rust/ mud mixture.
Still waiting on my buddy to hook me up with some driveshaft metal to build front and rear shafts, along with installing the rear shocks. Just need to weld my mounts on the axle tube and bolt them in nothing major. Also need to do the ball flip on the J arm since I have no spare. (HmmHmm Ryan) If it keeps running well we will take it to Superlift. :clap:
 
I believe I might have a couple of spares :hmm:

I think I can bring them along to Superlift for you!
 
Thank you bud.
 
No problem.
 
Those rear shocks would go on a lot better if I would ever give them back to you :lol:
 
Those rear shocks would go on a lot better if I would ever give them back to you :lol:

If you are not going to do anything with them,:p you have a couple of weeks left.
 
Drive shafts built and installed, Tcase regeared 4.7 and installed, and truck is running on all cylinders again found some clogged injectors. Rear shaft is off some and vibrates but I can handle that for now. Front is quiet and smooth so far.
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Looking good chief its becoming quite a nice trail rig, nice work :cheers:
 

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