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Looks like I need to hole saw THROUGH my engine then. I'll get pics when I'm done.
. Give me some ideas BEFORE I drill guys. 


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still can really wrap my mind around why na didn't get these.I decided rather than buying a new set of OEM style marker lights and modifying them to also be turn signals, I'd just get the cool ones @ToyotaMatt offers. Here's a preview. The grill and lights are just kinda hanging on without screws.
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On the 80s you have to make the same notch for steering shaft, the ones I have seen they do the half pipe thing, yours look much stronger boxed out the way you did it. I don’t think you’re going to have any issues.@Broski I wasn't told anything about adding it from 4WU. I just remember being told I might have an issue way back when I put the steering shaft through the shock tower. That the flex might bind my steering shaft. That is my main in in reason for trying to add this brace. Well, that and I like stuff sticking through the hood. A supercharger would be cooler though.
Your tube has hardly any bend to itThe tube will help - a lot. It may not be ideal, but you have tight spaces to package something. I would absolutely do it.
I used the old panhard from the All-Pro kit on mine. Bolted to the top of the towers. It absolutely makes a difference. Hindsight, I'd skipped the 4WU towers and done tube (i'd also have stayed w/ 12" CO's) as it would have made packaging much easier. Horrible picture - this was when I was trying to figure out if I could make a ibooster work.
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Just make the engine load-bearing and part of the chassis structure.
If there were room, going around the rear would be better than in front, but there's no there, there!
However the overhead view has some good news. The suspension's force acting on the towers can only ever be inline with the shock shafts. The leverage that those forces have on the frame is always 90° to their "Line of Action" (which is along the shafts). The shafts are not very far out from the sides of the frame rails, making their leverage against the frame pretty low as the height of the towers doesn't mean a lot. This means two things, you're less likely to need that tube over the top of the engine, and conversely, the more effective that tube will be.
Your tube has hardly any bend to it![]()
I don't see it helping as much as you seem to think that it will because all it does is make a square structure. Anchor the two bottom corners of the square and push on one of the top corners. It will still distort from the push. If the tube could be straight then it would essentially double the strength of the structure because now both towers are resisting that push, but because the tube has to have two large bends with long legs below those bends the tube itself will flex before the rigidity of the opposite tower comes into play.the frame will still twist. It's not a huge issue for the purpose of this build, but it certainly won't hurt to add the bracing. Could possibly go in front of and behind the intake manifold to add more tube...
I don't see it helping as much as you seem to think that it will because all it does is make a square structure. Anchor the two bottom corners of the square and push on one of the top corners. It will still distort from the push. If the tube could be straight then it would essentially double the strength of the structure because now both towers are resisting that push, but because the tube has to have two large bends with long legs below those bends the tube itself will flex before the rigidity of the opposite tower comes into play.
And all of this assumes a lateral push, which is not possible because the forces on each tower can only act along the length of the coil-overs. Being that they are nearly vertical, the only forces that can be applied to the top of each tower are also nearly vertical. If we want to get into Vector Math we can break down just how tiny any horizontal component of that nearly vertical force will be.
So then look at those vertical forces. The tube isn't oriented in a direction to be of much help there either. The ends are pointed down, so maybe that would do something, but then there's those large bends that will flex under that loading. We're back to it being a parallelogram structure where the only way to make it really stiff would be a diagonal thru the engine block. Push on any corner in any direction and the whole thing distorts. Building those lower corners to be as rigid as possible is the best bet. I'd sooner put in structure under the oil pan, if even possible, to further tie those lower corners together.
Or build an engine cage so that these forces can more easily be routed around the engine.
IMHO, there's zero reason to not do it. Even if it's only for peace of mind or because it looks cool.@bkg Thanks for your input. I realize that my cross brace is not ideal. I'd have to think it would offer SOME support regardless.