- Thread starter
- #1,441
Once it's cured enough I have this to put on the bottom. No more hot floor hopefully.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,442
On my 88, I had combined my OEM 22RE exhaust shield with the cat heat shield from my 3.4 swap donor. (99 4Runner) I just pop riveted them together.
This cab is basically the same so if it clears my other converter heat shield, I'll use it on this build.
This cab is basically the same so if it clears my other converter heat shield, I'll use it on this build.
Dude. This just looks awesome.
- Thread starter
- #1,444
I got quite a bit of the heat shield on. It's tougher than it looks to get it cut to fit.
I had originally installed 5 mm riv-nuts for the trans tunnel cover and regretted it. So today I drilled them out which made it easier to fit the heat shield and replaced them with 6 mm.
I haven't decided if I will put heat shield on the passenger side. The muffler is below the back half of the driver side floor. I should probably cover that area first.
I had originally installed 5 mm riv-nuts for the trans tunnel cover and regretted it. So today I drilled them out which made it easier to fit the heat shield and replaced them with 6 mm.
I haven't decided if I will put heat shield on the passenger side. The muffler is below the back half of the driver side floor. I should probably cover that area first.
What are you using to cut the heat shield? I ended up using a utility knife to get through it and the cuts didn’t turn out well. I may end up doing the underside of my truck as well, I’m not happy with the noise from my short test drive.
ntsqd
technerd
Pavement and rocks both reflect heat upwards.
I used some heavy duty shears when I put a similar product in the 4rnnr's rear 1/4's.
I used some heavy duty shears when I put a similar product in the 4rnnr's rear 1/4's.
- Thread starter
- #1,448
I don't think I could do this with the cab mounted. Not a good job anyway.
Looks great. I would definitely do the driver side while there. You're in AZ and you were asking about better AC condensers - might as well help the system as much as you can while you're in that open of a setting.
And yeah that stuff is a hassle to cut. How did you do the rivnut holes though it? Also looks like you used a hole saw where those cab grommets go. I tried hole sawing into mine and that fiberglass insulation wraps on the bit like a MF'er as soon as you break through the skin.
And yeah that stuff is a hassle to cut. How did you do the rivnut holes though it? Also looks like you used a hole saw where those cab grommets go. I tried hole sawing into mine and that fiberglass insulation wraps on the bit like a MF'er as soon as you break through the skin.
That insulation was definitely the PITA part for me as well. I started out with tin snips and quickly switched away from them.
- Thread starter
- #1,452
I used a razor knife to cut the holes in the floor for the plastic plugs. I cut it after it was stuck down and used the hole as the guide for the blade. I thought about a hole saw but thought it might grab and tear.
For the holes for the riv-nuts, I used a small ball peen hammer and pushed the aluminum down into the hole like a divot so I could properly locate the same drill bit used for the riv-nuts. It didn't tear the aluminum that way. It definitely gets the fiber wrapped around it though. I had to keep cutting it off the bit.
Went through a bunch of razor blades too. I cut the holes kind of like cutting a Halloween pumpkin. Getting all the fiber cut loose was the toughest part.
For the holes for the riv-nuts, I used a small ball peen hammer and pushed the aluminum down into the hole like a divot so I could properly locate the same drill bit used for the riv-nuts. It didn't tear the aluminum that way. It definitely gets the fiber wrapped around it though. I had to keep cutting it off the bit.
Went through a bunch of razor blades too. I cut the holes kind of like cutting a Halloween pumpkin. Getting all the fiber cut loose was the toughest part.
- Thread starter
- #1,453
This is as far as I got today. I have been using masking tape to make my patterns and ran out. I hung my tin heat shield and put the plastic plugs back in the rocker panels. I'll restock tomorrow. The heat is coming and I need to be further along with the cab.
- Thread starter
- #1,454
I'm kinda over cutting and fitting this heat shield. I had enough to to get most of the bottom covered. I have a piece for the tunnel cover and some left for the firewall behind the exhaust crossover.
Tomorrow is my wife's birthday so Tuesday I'm hoping to get the cab horizontal and up on stands so I can get it prepped for paint from the firewall to the radiator support.
I don't have any filler or regular 2K primer to fix any dents.....yet. I thought maybe I could get the cab mounted and worry about that later, but I need to take advantage of this spray booth while I can.
Most of the dents are fairly minor except the one I did on the roof. I'll be breaking out the torch and trying to minimize it enough that filler will cover it. Been watching YouTube. We'll see.
Before and after pics
Tomorrow is my wife's birthday so Tuesday I'm hoping to get the cab horizontal and up on stands so I can get it prepped for paint from the firewall to the radiator support.
I don't have any filler or regular 2K primer to fix any dents.....yet. I thought maybe I could get the cab mounted and worry about that later, but I need to take advantage of this spray booth while I can.
Most of the dents are fairly minor except the one I did on the roof. I'll be breaking out the torch and trying to minimize it enough that filler will cover it. Been watching YouTube. We'll see.
Before and after pics
- Thread starter
- #1,455
I got the cab repositioned, fixed the roof and patched all the tears I put in the floor getting it moved. More wax& grease remover and scuffing. Masked it off and today I shot two coats of epoxy primer.
This section was really a challenge for a newb painter because of all the nooks, crannies and angles. I'm doing my best and learning as I go.
Here's a couple pics of my first coat. @88repo had asked about fisheyes so I tried to show how I did my first coat. Right or wrong, it worked for me. More distance and moved faster to kind of fog it on. Then waited 30 minutes before my next normal coat.
I had the gun set the same for both coats.
This section was really a challenge for a newb painter because of all the nooks, crannies and angles. I'm doing my best and learning as I go.
Here's a couple pics of my first coat. @88repo had asked about fisheyes so I tried to show how I did my first coat. Right or wrong, it worked for me. More distance and moved faster to kind of fog it on. Then waited 30 minutes before my next normal coat.
I had the gun set the same for both coats.
Looks great !
ntsqd
technerd
IT does. Thinking to leave the engine bay that light color? My old boss at the Vintage Race shop always wanted the engine bays painted Krylon Universal Gray. We bought that color by the case. Showed a lot of dirt, but it sure made working on the cars much easier. Since
I was paid for cleaning them the same as wrenching or fabbing I didn't much care. I'm betting your boss is the same way.
I was paid for cleaning them the same as wrenching or fabbing I didn't much care. I'm betting your boss is the same way.
- Thread starter
- #1,459
Thanks guys. It's just the white epoxy primer right now. I have to get the single stage top coat on in 24 hours if I want to do it without sanding. I don't want to sand all that again so tomorrow morning I will be applying some seam sealer and later in the afternoon it will get a couple coats of white urethane. Definitely easy to see in the engine bay and under the truck when it's bright colored.
