Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

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That came out of my phone call with them. The only way to maintain the OE IFS rear WMS to WMS dimension was a custom housing and axle shafts.

So now I'm thinking to build a single axle car hauler trailer with a Torflex 8k axle under it. Never say never, but at this point I can't think of any reason that I'd buy or build a tandem axle trailer.
 
I'm glad you posted that Broski. I don't know anyone running big tires on stock axles so I wasn't sure what they could take. I don't have a heavy right foot so hopefully I'm good to go. My son could break an anvil or a steel ball in a rubber room and he never broke his stock rear 8" axle on 35's and he broke stuff I didn't think could be broken. 🤔

I don't have an 80 series axle or know where one is. What do they use for a parking brake?

I have some pretty serious trussing on my rear housing and a V6 3rd. I would think the weak link is the pressed bearing? Or the gears. The drum brakes work fine.

I can carry one spare axle if I feel the need. (Without brake so it fits either side and is more compact)
The 80 has drums built into the disc brakes for a parking brake.
They need to be in top shape to be effective!
They were still weak with after market shoes
There good now with OEM shoes
80 Axles are out there, I pick up a complete set last year for $700 couldn’t pass them up.

I put them in my stash as spares.
 
Yeah, they told me use a Diamond housing.

If you do build a trailer like that, I hope you post a build thread.
Same, same, Diamond housing was the call.

I see that you found my initial thread on the Torflex's.

The Expedition RDB's going on the Blanc-Oh! and the extremely common for RDB conversions (outside of Yotaland) Exploder RDB's are the same as those FZJ80 RDB's. P-brake is a drum inside the hat of the rotor. The Exploder is a fairly competent p-brake. I'm expecting that the larger Expi RDB's will be an even better p-brake.
 
Again, very little time available to work on this. Today I at least got the parking brake stuff welded on.

Since I'm desecrating the beautiful 4WU brackets I tried to at least make the stuff I'm welding on them look kinda sorta good. 😬

Fortunately no appointments or anything this weekend. Hopefully tomorrow I can test fit the cab over the cross member. If all good, pull the cab and get welding on the frame. If there's a problem, get it resolved.

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It was 113 in my garage today. I got the cab on the frame and bolted it down. Crawled under the cab and took a look. Woohoo, the cab is clear of the cross member (barely) and clears the battery box too. I'm good to go welding it on but F that I'm getting in the pool.

After a day in the pool it cooled down to 111 so I pulled the cab. Man that's a lot of work to just check clearance. Better than welding it all up and finding it doesn't fit though.

Got it welded in solid.... FINALLY. I have some stuff to grind off the frame and a few welds to finish and then I'll be flipping the frame over to get all the bottom stuff done.

Felt like progress today.


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Well I rolled my truck today. 😱 Now it's time for some welding, bottom fish plates, and most importantly, reinforcing the frame notch.

I don't know when I'll get back on it. My wife has surgery coming up in a few days.

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I have been helping my wife out post surgery so no time in the garage. I DID manage to think about what I want and need to get done and I ordered a few parts for my brake system. Hey, it's something.

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I saw a bunch of YouTube videos on making a tool to straighten the NiCopp tubing using patio door rollers. I was going to try it until I saw a comment below one of the videos that said to just drill a hole in the long side of a 2x4 slightly bigger than the tube. It works.

I'm not ready to run brake line yet anyway though. I was just bored.

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But today I finally got some time in the garage. I have to address the notch in the frame. My Jeep guy neighbors never saw anyone cycle suspension upside down. 😱

The frame rail already has 3/16" plating on top and the outside rail. Today I added another 1/4" to the underside of the top extending past the notch on each side.

I cut a 3 1/8" wide piece of 3/8" plate from the scrap pieces I cut off the skid plate. I managed to bend a 90 in one end. Quite the chore. I welded in the other side.

It's all mocked up and I cycled suspension and steering. I just need to bevel the weld joints and weld it in.

I'm going to add a gusset on top that ties into the shock tower to address that big stress riser, necked down frame rail as much as I can.

I'll tie the shock towers together as well.

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It's friggin HOT 🥵 here. And it's monsoon so it ain't no "dry heat" either. So I spent yesterday in the pool.

Today I sucked it up and got the frame stripped. My garage is a cluster fup but I still have enough room to work.

Mainly got setup to get welding tomorrow.

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I forgot to mention that I sold some parts and used the money to get this flaring tool set. All I had was the old school ones off the tool trucks. I broke the best one I had so it was time for an upgrade.

I'm going with AN fittings and this has both 37 and 45 degree dies. I tried it on some scrap steel tube and it sure is easier than the old style tools.

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I made some parts for a couple antique cars for an old guy around the corner from me for free. He gave it to me. I actually used it the first time to make my inner fenders.
 

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