Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I was hoping to get a couple tires/wheels off the 88 today so I can start mock-up of the rear suspension. I realized that I'm out of jack stands and clamps. They're still holding up the front.

I also forgot that I had raised the rear of the transfer case a while ago and never moved the mounts. It was still supported by a stand. So I cut off the mounts and re- TACKED them. I'm still not sure if I'm going to be keeping this FROR T-case mount.

The front frame link brackets still have my clamps holding them. So I put some more tack welds and pulled the clamps so I can use them on the rear.

I need to position the axle at ride height and where I want it in the wheel well. The only stands I have left leave it 3 1/2" low. So it's what I have to work with for now. I have another set of stands on the way.

Just to get close I hung plumb bobs in the center of the wheel wells and lined up the center of the axles.

I'm not sure if it will stay there. Might have to see how it cycles up and down and adjust as needed.

 

[aztoyman]

The ends of the bracket need to be level at ride height so no welding until I get it there.

I also have to rotate the pinion to the proper angle at ride height.

This is just "close" to get the frame brackets clamped to the frame in their approximate position.

 

[aztoyman]

This bracket looks Badass.

There are no instructions for this. The frame brackets are getting close to the horse collar cross member. I don't know if I have to remove or relocate it.

I'll give Brian a call tomorrow for some guidance.

 

[aztoyman]

Brian got back to me fast (as usual) and said this was "designed" to be 40" lower link lengths. He also said that some people prefer to make the front and rear lower links the same. And that's what he prefers as well but that I don't have to.

I'll have to go measure the front. I don't remember what they are.

NOTE: I'm going to go back and edit my previous post about the lower link length to avoid confusion.

 

[Pat4wd]

Liking the look of the link stuff! Been debating their 3 link front for a while. Thanks for the updates.

 

[aztoyman]

Well it's settled. My front lower links are 40" center to center so that makes it easy. I made the rear lower links the same.

The frame brackets need to be RIGHT where the cross member is so it's gotta go. It sure would be a LOT easier if the cab was off. I'm going to have to make a note of the location for the bracket for the E-brake cable linkage and address that later on.

 

[ntsqd]

Why not tie the brackets into the horse-collar x-member?

 

[aztoyman]

I might be able to re-mount it between the two brackets if I had to?? The brackets center right at the center of the cross member.

I could have just cut the welds and took it off almost completely intact IF I pull the cab. Which I'm not.

I had to use my straight and 90 degree die grinders with a cut off wheel to get 3 sides cut. I stuck a 12" hacksaw blade in my air saw to reach through and cut the top. It's salvageable if I need to reuse it.

I'll grind the welds off tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

@ ntsqd, here's a visual of why I had to remove the cross member.

After the suspension is in and I see where the drive shaft and anything else ends up, I may be able to make something to tie them together.

 

[aztoyman]

I didn't get a chance to work on this until late afternoon. I did manage to at least grind off the welds for the cross member and get the frame brackets clamped on.

I really need to get the axle another 3 1/2" - 4" higher (ride height).

Here's a few pics.

 

[ntsqd]

Being cantilevered that far off the inside of the frame rails, box section or not, I think it imperative that there be a cross member of significant bending strength bridging between them. Significant bending strength is more than just a bent round tube. I'd see if the OEM cross-member can be fitted to the sloped flats of the link brackets.

 

[aztoyman]

I agree and saved it because I think it can be cut to fit back on. It would put the parking brake cable mounting points back in position as well. It was pretty much centered right where the brackets are now. You can see the flap of steel that originally went over the top of the frame in the pic. I'll work on doing this when I take the cab back off. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[Broski]

While I think the those brackets would benefit form a cross brace. I think most of the load on them is forward and backward with the frame.
The only time they well see a heavy load ( torsional )is if you land on them wheeling. JMHO

Looking good, I'm excited for your progress !

 

[aztoyman]

Broski, if I do any "landing" it won't be intentional!

 

[Broski]

Broski,if I do any "landing" it won't intentional!

It just happens
My rear drive shaft after the last run (Fordyce Creek trail )

Happy I had a spare

 

[aztoyman]

I got another jack/stand combo in the mail this afternoon so I was able to get a little more accomplished.

I got the axle up to ride height, centered in the wheel wells and positioned the ends of the truss level. I tack welded the center of the truss and both ends together. It's just sitting on the axle housing since I still need to set pinion angle.

I looked at the website pics to see exactly where the upper link brackets go on the lower link brackets. The way they are cut they almost fall into place. So those are tacked.

At this point the truss is where it belongs and so are the upper mounts so all I had to do was measure and cut to make the upper links.

Here's some pics of the "assembly". I can still shift it back and forth in the wheel wells if needed while keeping the geometry the same.

Yeah I know I have grease zerks on the wrong side. It's mockup dang it.

 

[aztoyman]

Sorry, double post

 

[aztoyman]

Here's a backside view of the truss. And tire clearance pic. 15 x 8 wheels 3.5 BS. Tire is my old KM2 35/12.50-15

 

[aztoyman]

Looks like I'll have some sheet metal trimming to do.

 

[aztoyman]

I need to cycle the suspension to get moving ahead on this. The axle truss is just literally sitting on top of the axle housing and I can't have it flopping around while I cycle it. I can't really weld it until I set my pinion angle and I don't have a drive shaft to do that.

So I made this SST to at least get me in the ball park. NO laughing

I had an old drive flange and I found a piece of galvanized tube and some other scraps in my lathe pan for parts. I bolted it to the pinion flange and pointed it to the center of my T-case output flange. Then I just placed a few easy to cut out tack welds. Now I can cycle my rear suspension.