Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap)

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Ah, I thought it would be pointed down, I was wrong. I didn't think about the welded on bracketry either. That would def not be worth it.
I'm enjoying the thread.
 
Hey I appreciate all feedback and questions. This is a first for me. Linking anyway.

I considered turning the knuckles and then I took a good look at what I would have to do. Cut off everything I put on it. Just tacked but it changes things. Steering stops, everything.

There's plenty of people that run this kit out there with stock straight axles that didn't turn knuckles. I'm going to take the chance at this point.

Ideally.....yep, I think it would be better if I built it with a perfect pinion angle at ride height.
 
I'm all for using the correct terminology as I've found from experience that it greatly aids communication, but those who would say that a double Cardan joint is not a constant velocity joint don't understand exactly how a Cardan joint works and why when arranged correctly two of them next to each other will indeed result in a constant velocity output. They're just being excessively pedantic and are used to Rzeppa and Birfield type designs exclusively being called "constant velocity joints", which they are, but they are not the only such joints.

If you're not going to be running at highway speeds in 4wd and the pinion u-joint doesn't become the first then to limit droop then I'd go for ideal caster and not worry about the pinion joint angle.
 
Yeah..... I didn't want to have this thread get too far off topic with a "discussion" (arguments ha ha) about the drive shaft terminology. Thanks for the clarification. It was a legit question that got asked.

I have an Aussie locker up front so it's not so friendly on the street. This is mainly a trail rig that will get street driven maybe to and from local trails. Trailered for longer trips.

I hope to be back on this build soon.
 
I got my shocks and bumps. All I need to move forward is the joints.

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I got a reply from Brian. Looks like Summit Machine isn't going to be shipping anything out until June 20th.

On a more positive note, I finally got the abandoned title paperwork for the 90 pickup I mentioned earlier in this thread. The MVD told me about two weeks. Their website says 45 days. I started the process Dec 17th!! Man, everything is delayed these days.

I hope to stay busy on it and get it sold while waiting for the joints. I worked on it a little all this time but I was afraid to put any money in it without a title in my hand.
 
Here's my latest update. I sold the 90 pickup and used some of the profit to buy my beadlocks. (Raceline RT8178060 17 x 8 3.5" BS)

I ordered 5 wheels. I got 4 of them the other day.

UPDATE 7/15/2022
I just checked tracking and the 5th wheel went from Cali to OHIO and is now in MISSOURI They ALL shipped the same day from Anaheim????



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When I pulled the first one out of the box I grabbed a razor sharp edge. All the edges on the backside are like that. It looks like Raceline's tooling that punches out the holes is getting worn?

I chose to eliminate the sharp edges even though I had to grind through the powder coating. It's on the back side where you can't see it anyway.

I also had to clean the powder coating out of the insert threads.

Otherwise, they look like stout wheels. Each wheel came with two extra bolts, washers and inserts.

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Excellent Size and backspacing
 
Even better news is that my rod ends are here. I didn't get the tube adapters with them. I'm supposed to get them Saturday. What a rollercoaster ride trying to get my parts.

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I need to decide on tires. MAN they jump in price when you go to a 17" wheel.

I'd love to run some Krawers or Trepadors but those are $$$$.

Any recommendations for crawling in the desert? Mainly a trail rig. Very little street driving. I date them out before I wear them out. I'll even run bias plys.


Broski, I'll dab some black implement paint on the bare spots on the wheels.
 
Once again the Mud hogs perform excellent on my last wheeling trip on Fordyce creek.
They seem to hook up better then the Patagonian tires my friend was running.
Not sure what they cost currently but were very affordable when I got them.
They were right around $280. Each for a 39x12.50 pretty much everything else in that size was in the $400. Range
Walmart had them with free shipping 🤷‍♂️
They have been a excellent rock crawling Tire. Very happy with them.
 
Thanks Broski, they have good reviews and are definitely affordability priced. Walmart is out of stock but I see an eBay seller has them at the same price.

I did the touch up paint on the wheels by the way.
 
I got my tube adapters today so I'm back in business. I didn't get much time to do much but at least I got started.

Brian said the lower links are "designed" to be 40" in length. However, some people prefer to match front and rear lower link length.

I didn't weld them yet. I just beveled the ends of the tube, cleaned off the mill scale and put a couple tack welds.

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Sometimes the flanges on the brackets are too tight for the rod ends to go in so I did a test fit on all of them. Easier to fix now than when holding heavy parts over my head.

I found a few that the rod ends wouldn't go into so I broke out the porta power. I tried to just use a big crescent wrench but Brian's brackets are stout.

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Now that the rod ends fit between the ears I can start fitting things up. I'm almost done cleaning up the axle housing. The diff, axles and brake assemblies are just for mock-up. They will get swapped with the ones on my 88.

Tomorrow I'll need to pull two tires/wheels off the 88 so I can check fit as I go.

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Journeyman fabricator that I worked with one summer taught me to put a .030" thick AN washer in the mock-up and tack it that way. Sets the assembly/disassembly clearance really nicely.
Too bad you weren't given that option, but using a porta-power is almost cheating! A cheat that I'm going to remember.......
 

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