Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

Just as a comparison to my pic. Here's a pic from the instructions.

Granted, the axle might be further forward. Can't tell.

 

[gnob]

I know its tight but you could realistically shorten the booster studs give you more room.

 

[aztoyman]

I'll see what I can do tomorrow. Right now the tower is basically centered on the bump can. I tried to get it directly above the shock mount but, they're wasn't enough room. I have to cut the tacks to tilt it anyway. If shortening the studs works, I'll do it. I'll have to put the pedal bracket inside to see how much shorter I can go. Good idea gnob.

 

[aztoyman]

Well gnob, your idea to shorten the studs definitely helped. I was able to take 1/2" off.

 

[aztoyman]

I still don't have enough room to move it directly over the lower shock mount but it's definitely better. Here's how much I gained.

 

[aztoyman]

I can BARELY get the booster through here. If I end up having to tilt more toward the master cylinder I'll have to move it a hair forward again.

I should have my springs soon. I really need them to confirm placement before I weld anything.

 

[aztoyman]

At mid travel and ride height the shock looks better aligned with the shock tower. At max extension you can see a slight angle. I doubt it's a problem. I can't really get it any better unless I find a smaller booster. So unless someone has experience that says this is no good, I'm good with it.

 

[aztoyman]

I thought the passenger side was going to be easier. The shock tower is right in front of the A/C lines coming out of the firewall. I might have to get creative with fittings and hoses. I GOTTA have A/C here in AZ.

I think I'm going to need more u-joints in my steering shaft to get around the tower. Unless I can notch it. I'll figure it out once I know the final location of the tower.

Once the shock towers are in I need to set the bumps and make motor mounts.

 

[aztoyman]

I picked up my springs today. Anybody hear of Magnitude springs? I thought Brian was an Eibach man. So I put one spring on and checked clearance. Well THAT didn't work. The shock is mounted behind the pivot point of the knuckle so at max articulation and full left turn the tire hits the spring. So it actually gets worse if I move the shock tower toward the master cylinder and firewall. I guess it's all a compromise.

So in order to angle the shock in I had to trim 1/2" more from the bottom of the tower so it would fit UNDER the master cylinder. I also had to push it forward just a hair or the booster was obstructed again. This position is MUCH better. There's only about 1/8" between the tower and bottom of the master cylinder.

 

[aztoyman]

Wheels with less backspacing would definitely help.

 

[aztoyman]

I can gain a little more room if I trim maybe 1/2" off the lower shock tabs.

 

[aztoyman]

Well I solve one problem and find a few more.

Brian kept telling me to set the bumps first. I tacked them in position ASSUMING I needed to mount them perpendicular to the bump pad. Maybe not. You'll see in a minute.

I cleared the tire but now the shock hits the bump can. So trimming the shock tab is no longer on my to do list.

So I can't tip the tower out to clear the bump can or I hit the tire.

I NEED to move the tower toward the firewall for this to work. I can keep it angled for the spring to clear the tire and clear the bump can.

But then I can't get the booster in or out.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's the bump stops tacked in place.... perpendicular to the pad at full stuff. I used a machinist square to align them. I might be changing that though.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's max droop driver, max stuff passenger. Clears the tire... barely. Hitting the bump. Looks like I need to find a sweet spot for an angle on the can.

The only way I see to fix this is to move the tower further back.

I "might" be able to grind the mount for the bump can a little. Just enough for a bit more room.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's what I'm going to try. I hope Brian doesn't see what I'm doing to his shock tower.

I cut the weld on one side on top. I'm going to trim the top plate and bend the one side closer to a 90 than the 45 or whatever it is. I managed to bend it a little just to see if it's going to work. I think it is so tomorrow I'm going to heat and bend it.

Hopefully it will give me just enough room for this all to work.

 

[aztoyman]

Here you can see where I started the bend. Bending it away from the master cylinder closer to 90 degrees will definitely give me more room for the booster. Even if I went to 90 degrees the shock still has room. It will still be a full gusset to the bottom of the frame so I think it will still be strong.

I'm hoping this bend and some fine tweaks on the angles will get me where I need to be.

 

[aztoyman]

It's been one thing after another trying to get this setup properly. I think I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel.

I welcome feedback or suggestions from anybody that's done this.

 

[EWheeler]

It's been one thing after another trying to get this setup properly. I think I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel.

I welcome feedback or suggestions from anybody that's done this.

No experience or suggestions, other than to just keep moving forward, even if it feels like everyday is 1 step forward 2 steps back. This thing is going to be amazing when you're done, thanks for bringing us along for the ride!

 

[aztoyman]

Spent most of the day working on the shock tower. I marked and cut the top of the tower and I was going to use an oxy/acetaline torch to heat and bend the one side in. Instead, I decided to cut a groove halfway through along the bend and easily bent it to 90 degrees.

Alright, ready to test fit.

 

[aztoyman]

Definite improvement but, STILL not enough. Geeze.

So I just finished the cut and took the whole side off. Put it up in position and realized it MUST be trimmed all the way to the edge of the spine section of the tower. No way around it.

After some head scratching I decided to basically notch the top at the booster. I was able to put the notched side back on at the original angle.

I just had to heat and bend it near the top and weld in a gusset. I fully welded underneath to maximize strength.